I've been reading the forums here for some time, thanks for such a great community, I've learnt so much since finding out about styleforum!
My wedding is at the end of the year and I will be going to Hong Kong this month to get my tuxedo made. I really want to get a tuxedo that looks timeless and fits well on my body shape.
I am 5'8'' and weigh 120 lbs and have a slim physique (similar to Joseph Gordon-Levitt).
This will be my first time wearing a tuxedo, so I have done some research and read the Black Tie guide several times to ensure I stick to the suggestions.
Here are some of the considerations of what I plan to ask the tailor to make for the tuxedo:
- Black single breasted dinner jacket
- 1 Button
- Peak lapel (regular lapel width, considered narrow but worried about looking disproportionate)
- Side vents
- Buttonhole on left lapel for boutonniere
- Double-besomed slit hip pockets (definitely no flap pockets)
- Lapel facing- satin or grosgrain? I have a dilemma here as not sure which to go with
- Black trousers
- Flat front
- Side pockets
- Suspender buttons
- No belt loops
- Single braid on outside seams (match lapel facings)
- White shirt
- Narrow pleats (1/8)
- Spread down collar
- Fly front (hidden buttons)
- Vest/Waistcost (either black or ivory)
- Full back
- Either shawl lapel or peaked lapel
- 3 or 4 button
- Same material as the facings (satin or grosgrain)
- Accessories / Neckwear / Shoes
- Self tie bow tie (modern butterfly) in either grosgrain or satin (match the lapel facing)
- Suspenders (should they match the colour of the vest/waistcoat?)
- White pocket square
- Lace-up Oxford shoes
Have I missed anything or overlooked any crucial factors?
Some questions I have include:
1) Should I stick with a regular lapel width? I'm worried the look of narrow/wide width lapel won't be timeless
2) I've noticed there are various peak lapel shapes e.g. some peaks go higher, is there a standard shape I can show the tailor?
3) Is the satin or grosgrain material more classical and timeless for the lapel? I can't decide on the two.
4) Positioning of the button (stance), is there a general rule of where the button should be placed, relative to my body? I have noticed if the button is too high, the jacket ends up looking like a business suit, as it no longer has the deep V shape look.
5) How high should the trousers sit on the waist for a tuxedo? Should it be the same as normal trousers in a business suit?
6) What is the difference between a braid vs band of facing on the side seams of the trousers? Is the former more contemporary and the latter the classic attire? I'm unable to differentiate this part based on the photos.
7) Am I right to select narrower (1/8) pleats given my slim frame?
8) I've noticed different shapes of the spread collar, is there one that is most preferred?
Is spread or semi-spread collar more formal?
9) Is there anything wrong with the fly front or would mother of pearl or onyx studs be more formal?
10) Does the colour of the vest have to match the tuxedo (black)? I have seen men wear ivory tuxedos, but is this not recommended?
11) What lapel shape (peak, shawl or U) for the vest would match a peaked lapel dinner jacket?
12) Should the vest show a little above the V of the peak lapel jacket or should it be made lower to not be seen at all when the jacket is worn?
13) Should the width of the bow tie cover most of the collar of the shirt? I have seen some bow ties covering the whole collar (thus seeing no white), while others show about 1-2cm on both sides between the bow tie and the lapel. Which is considered correct?
The groomsmen will be wearing matching tuxedos but with a cummerbund instead. Do the groomsmen shirt have to match the shirt I wear?
Any suggestions or responses to my questions would be really appreciated as I feel there is still a lot I haven't covered and there are still quite a lot of factors I'm unsure about
Thanks for reading my first post!