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Advice needed on my wedding tuxedo! Please help

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 

Hello everyone!

 

I've been reading the forums here for some time, thanks for such a great community, I've learnt so much since finding out about styleforum!

 

My wedding is at the end of the year and I will be going to Hong Kong this month to get my tuxedo made. I really want to get a tuxedo that looks timeless and fits well on my body shape.

 

I am 5'8'' and weigh 120 lbs and have a slim physique (similar to Joseph Gordon-Levitt).

This will be my first time wearing a tuxedo, so I have done some research and read the Black Tie guide several times to ensure I stick to the suggestions.


Here are some of the considerations of what I plan to ask the tailor to make for the tuxedo:

 

- Black single breasted dinner jacket

- 1 Button

- Peak lapel (regular lapel width, considered narrow but worried about looking disproportionate) 

- Side vents

- Buttonhole on left lapel for boutonniere 

- Double-besomed slit hip pockets (definitely no flap pockets)

- Lapel facing- satin or grosgrain? I have a dilemma here as not sure which to go with
 

- Black trousers
- Flat front

- Side pockets

- Suspender buttons

- No belt loops

- Single braid on outside seams (match lapel facings)

 

- White shirt

- Narrow pleats (1/8) 

- Spread down collar

- Fly front (hidden buttons)

 

- Vest/Waistcost (either black or ivory)

- Full back

- Either shawl lapel or peaked lapel

- 3 or 4 button

- Same material as the facings (satin or grosgrain)

 

- Accessories / Neckwear / Shoes

- Self tie bow tie (modern butterfly) in either grosgrain or satin (match the lapel facing)

- Suspenders (should they match the colour of the vest/waistcoat?)

- White pocket square

- Boutonniere 

- Cufflinks

- Lace-up Oxford shoes

 

Have I missed anything or overlooked any crucial factors? 

 

Some questions I have include:

Jacket 

1) Should I stick with a regular lapel width? I'm worried the look of narrow/wide width lapel won't be timeless

2) I've noticed there are various peak lapel shapes e.g. some peaks go higher, is there a standard shape I can show the tailor?

3) Is the satin or grosgrain material more classical and timeless for the lapel? I can't decide on the two.

4) Positioning of the button (stance), is there a general rule of where the button should be placed, relative to my body? I have noticed if the button is too high, the jacket ends up looking like a business suit, as it no longer has the deep V shape look.


Trousers
5) How high should the trousers sit on the waist for a tuxedo? Should it be the same as normal trousers in a business suit?

6) What is the difference between a braid vs band of facing on the side seams of the trousers? Is the former more contemporary and the latter the classic attire? I'm unable to differentiate this part based on the photos.

 

Shirt

7) Am I right to select narrower (1/8) pleats given my slim frame?

8) I've noticed different shapes of the spread collar, is there one that is most preferred?

Is spread or semi-spread collar more formal?

9) Is there anything wrong with the fly front or would mother of pearl or onyx studs be more formal?

 

Vest

10) Does the colour of the vest have to match the tuxedo (black)? I have seen men wear ivory tuxedos, but is this not recommended? 

11) What lapel shape (peak, shawl or U) for the vest would match a peaked lapel dinner jacket?

12) Should the vest show a little above the V of the peak lapel jacket or should it be made lower to not be seen at all when the jacket is worn?

 

Bowtie

13) Should the width of the bow tie cover most of the collar of the shirt? I have seen some bow ties covering the whole collar (thus seeing no white), while others show about 1-2cm on both sides between the bow tie and the lapel. Which is considered correct?

 

The groomsmen will be wearing matching tuxedos but with a cummerbund instead. Do the groomsmen shirt have to match the shirt I wear?

 

Any suggestions or responses to my questions would be really appreciated as I feel there is still a lot I haven't covered and there are still quite a lot of factors I'm unsure about


Thanks for reading my first post!

post #2 of 20
Thread Starter 
I forgot to mention that the vest I plan to get made will be a single breasted one
post #3 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by peak08 View Post


- Side vents - I WOULD GO VENTLESS AS THE COAT WILL APPEAR SLIMMER. DOUBLE IS FINE THOUGH
- Lapel facing- satin or grosgrain? - I PREFER THE MATTE APPEARENCE OF GROSGRAIN BUT EITHER IS FINE - SATIN IS ALSO FAR MORE PREVALENT IN RTW

- Flat front - CONSIDER A SINGLE FORWARD PLEAT - WILL LOOK SLIM IF THAT'S YOUR CONCERN

- Fly front (hidden buttons) - IF YOU'RE GETTING A WAISTCOAT, I STRONGLY SUGGEST A BIB-FRONT SHIRT IN MARCELLA / PIQUE (W/ STUDS)

- Vest/Waistcost (either black or ivory)
- Full back - YES, GOOD CALL
- Either shawl lapel or peaked lapel - CONSIDER THE U-SHAPED HORSESHOE VEST - LOOKS QUITE SMART


- Accessories / Neckwear / Shoes
- Self tie bow tie (modern butterfly) in either grosgrain or satin (match the lapel facing) - YES - ALSO CONSIDER THE DIAMOND POINT, WHICH IS UNUSUAL IN A GOOD WAY
- Suspenders (should they match the colour of the vest/waistcoat?) - DOESN'T MATTER - YOU HAVE A VEST ON - JUST CHOOSE EITHER BLACK OR IVORY - ENSURE YOU SIZE CORRECTLY IF YOU CHOOSE NOT TO WEAR THE VEST ON A HOT DAY
- White pocket square - STICK W/ LINEN
- Boutonniere  - CHOOSE EITHER A SQUARE OR A BOUT
- Lace-up Oxford shoes - OPERA PUMPS WOULD BE GREAT. IF REG OXFORDS, BUY SILK LACES (CHEAP)

Have I missed anything or overlooked any crucial factors? 

- ENSURE THE SHIRT HAS LINK CUFFS
- FISHBACK ON THE TROUSERS - THEY DO HANG MUCH BETTER
- IF YOU GO W/ PUMPS, GET SILK HOSE (BLACK)

Some questions I have include:
Jacket 
1) Should I stick with a regular lapel width? I'm worried the look of narrow/wide width lapel won't be timeless - YES - FOR YOUR SIZE I RECOMMEND 3.5" WITH SOME BELLY
2) I've noticed there are various peak lapel shapes e.g. some peaks go higher, is there a standard shape I can show the tailor? - JUST LET HIM DO HIS THING - DON'T LET THE GORGE BE TOO HIGH
3) Is the satin or grosgrain material more classical and timeless for the lapel? I can't decide on the two. - EITHER IS OK
4) Positioning of the button (stance), is there a general rule of where the button should be placed, relative to my body? I have noticed if the button is too high, the jacket ends up looking like a business suit, as it no longer has the deep V shape look. - EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN METHOD - CUTS THE TORSO MID-WAY, CLOSE TO THE BELLY BUTTON ETC. ETC. YOU CAN SORT THIS OUT DURING THE FITTINGS


Trousers
5) How high should the trousers sit on the waist for a tuxedo? Should it be the same as normal trousers in a business suit? - NO - HIGHER - MEANINGFULLY HIGHER
6) What is the difference between a braid vs band of facing on the side seams of the trousers? Is the former more contemporary and the latter the classic attire? I'm unable to differentiate this part based on the photos. - NOT SURE WHAT YOU MEAN BY THIS

Shirt
7) Am I right to select narrower (1/8) pleats given my slim frame? - NEVER GET PLEATS SO UNSURE - I WOULD DEF SKIP PLEATS WITH A VEST
8) I've noticed different shapes of the spread collar, is there one that is most preferred? - REGULAR SPREAD - NOT A CUTAWAY
Is spread or semi-spread collar more formal? - SE ABOVE
9) Is there anything wrong with the fly front or would mother of pearl or onyx studs be more formal? - STUDS

Vest
10) Does the colour of the vest have to match the tuxedo (black)? I have seen men wear ivory tuxedos, but is this not recommended?  - AARGH!!! NO - DEF THE SAME MATERIAL AS THE COAT / TROUSERS
11) What lapel shape (peak, shawl or U) for the vest would match a peaked lapel dinner jacket? - U, BUT IF NOT, THEN SHAWL
12) Should the vest show a little above the V of the peak lapel jacket or should it be made lower to not be seen at all when the jacket is worn? - I WOULD LEAVE THE JACKET UNBUTTONED WITH THE VEST ON - FORMAL VESTS ARE ALSO CUT LOW, UNLIKE BIZ VESTS

Bowtie
13) Should the width of the bow tie cover most of the collar of the shirt? I have seen some bow ties covering the whole collar (thus seeing no white), while others show about 1-2cm on both sides between the bow tie and the lapel. Which is considered correct? - DEPENDS ON THE SHAPE (BATWING, BUTTERFLY ETC.) - TYPICALLY COVER THE COLLAR

The groomsmen will be wearing matching tuxedos but with a cummerbund instead. Do the groomsmen shirt have to match the shirt I wear? - NO
post #4 of 20
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the helpful reply, will definitely take these pointers on board.

 

Luckily I checked on the colour/material of the vest, I was initially considering an ivory vest, but definitely going to stick with black now.

 

One other question I just thought of was the pocket on the dinner jacket, does it matter if it is straight (horizontal) or slanted?

You strongly suggested a bib-front shirt in Marcella / Pique. Which of these two would look better on a smaller/skinny frame guy?
Is there any particular reason why I should skip pleats if wearing a vest? I won’t be taking the DJ off and the vest will be hidden the whole time, so does it make a difference if I wear a vest or not?
 

I chose the pleats as I thought the vertical lines could give me a visual boost in height, but I guess you could argue it could make me look even skinnier.

 

Is it a big No No to have both a pocket square AND boutonniere? If so, why is this the case?

 

With the trousers, is it safe to ask for a braid along the side of trousers in the same lapel facing material?

 

Finally, does the material of the bow tie have to match the lapel facing (grosgrain or satin)? Can I go for something slightly different like faille or barathea?

 

post #5 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by peak08 View Post

Thanks for the helpful reply, will definitely take these pointers on board. - NO PROB, HAPPY TO HELP

Luckily I checked on the colour/material of the vest, I was initially considering an ivory vest, but definitely going to stick with black now. - GOOD!

One other question I just thought of was the pocket on the dinner jacket, does it matter if it is straight (horizontal) or slanted? - SHoULD DEF BE STRAIGHT BESOM (I.E. JETTED WITHOUT THE FLAP) POCKETS - SLANTED OR HACKING POCKETS ARE INCORRECT FOR BLACK TIE


You strongly suggested a bib-front shirt in Marcella / Pique. Which of these two would look better on a smaller/skinny frame guy? - EITHER IS FINE - ESSENTIALLY THE SAME MATERIAL (THE WEAVE IS MILDLY DIFFERENT BUT NO ONE WILL BE ABLE TO TELL)

Is there any particular reason why I should skip pleats if wearing a vest? I won’t be taking the DJ off and the vest will be hidden the whole time, so does it make a difference if I wear a vest or not? - I HAVE FOUND THAT PLEATED SHIRTS DON'T SIT WELL UNDERNEATH VESTS. ALSO AN UNCREASED, BIB-FRONT SHIRT IS A MUCH SMArTER LOOK WHEN PAIRED WITH A FORMAL VEST. PLEATED FRONTS STRIKE ME AS A SUMMER CONCESSION TO BE WORN WITH A CUMMERBUND


Is it a big No No to have both a pocket square AND boutonniere? If so, why is this the case? - NOT A BIG NO-NO - GO FOR IT IF YOU WANT - ITS YOUR WEDDING SO ITS OK TO DO BOTH - JUST MAKE SURE THE BOUT IS PROPERLY PUT INSIDE THE LAPEL AND NOT SIMPLY TACKED ON W/ A PIN BY YOUR WEDDING COORDINATOR. ALSO GO FOR A SMALLER FLOWER AND NOT ONE OF THOSE GARISH 5" JOBS

With the trousers, is it safe to ask for a braid along the side of trousers in the same lapel facing material? - YUP, THAT'S STANDARD

Finally, does the material of the bow tie have to match the lapel facing (grosgrain or satin)? Can I go for something slightly different like faille or barathea? - TYPICALLY MATCHES BUT ITS OK IF YOU MATCH FAILLE FOR GROSGRAIN - AGAIN, JUST A SMALL DIFFERENCE IN THE WEAVE SO NO BIGGIE. JUST DON'T DO SATIN AND GROSGRAIN, OR VELVET AND FAILLE ETC.
post #6 of 20
This is what you should aim for - single-breasted peak, low-cut U/horseshoe vest - stiff front Marcella shirt. Only change is the turndown collar.

post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Very nice example thanks, hard to see the lapels though due to dark lighting.

What are the buttons used on the shirt?

So pleated shirt is definitely not advised if wearing a waistcoat?
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by peak08 View Post

What are the buttons used on the shirt?

 

I would assume studs.

post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 

I want to avoid MOP or Onyx studs, would a fly front work on the marcella shirt?

post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by peak08 View Post

would a fly front work on the marcella shirt?

I don't believe so, but I could be wrong (anyone else know?). Why the hesitation re: studs?

If you're committed to omitting the studs, just go for a regular broadcloth shirt with a fly front. Either way, ensure that you get link cuffs and not regular french cuffs.
post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danleyness View Post

I would assume studs.

Yup, they're studs.
post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


I don't believe so, but I could be wrong (anyone else know?). Why the hesitation re: studs?

If you're committed to omitting the studs, just go for a regular broadcloth shirt with a fly front. Either way, ensure that you get link cuffs and not regular french cuffs.


I find it hard to decide between MOP or Onyx studs, and there is such differing opinions as to which looks better...so I'd rather keep it simple.

What is the difference between link cuffs and french cuffs on the shirt? I thought french cuff would be the standard?

If others could also let me know if pleated shirts can be worn with a waistcoat, that would be great.

post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post


I don't believe so, but I could be wrong (anyone else know?). Why the hesitation re: studs?

If you're committed to omitting the studs, just go for a regular broadcloth shirt with a fly front. Either way, ensure that you get link cuffs and not regular french cuffs.



Just checked, do you mean single cuffs when you say link cuffs? I'm assuming the french cuffs are too thick for black tie attire?

post #14 of 20
Thread Starter 
Looked at the black tie guide and single cuff sleeves fastened with links is for white tie and french cuffs are for black tie dress code.

Given the bulk of my outfit is black tie, should I get french or single cuffs?
post #15 of 20
French cuffs.

The answer to the vest color question was vague. It should only be black if the vest is bought as part of a set that includes the tuxedo. Otherwise, there might be slight color differences between the pieces and unappealing aesthetic results.
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