The Allen Edmonds MTO Thread

[JezeC]

Isn't there also the rush street?

Yea but I'm trying to avoid the broguing, so I'm leaning towards a punched captoe or single stitched captoe.

On another note, did AE attached a heel tap on these rush streets? http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2005_1_40000000001_-1_

 

[wonsmithr8]

Yea but I'm trying to avoid the broguing, so I'm leaning towards a punched captoe or single stitched captoe.

On another note, did AE attached a heel tap on these rush streets? http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2005_1_40000000001_-1_

Oh right right. That's also the reason why I hesitate to get them.

 

[Burzan]



Yea but I'm trying to avoid the broguing, so I'm leaning towards a punched captoe or single stitched captoe.

On another note, did AE attached a heel tap on these rush streets? http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2005_1_40000000001_-1_

Oh right right. That's also the reason why I hesitate to get them.

I think that rubber is part of the Dainite sole rather than a heel tap that AE attached.

 

[wonsmithr8]

I think that rubber is part of the Dainite sole rather than a heel tap that AE attached.

Yep that's right. My OSB rough outs are the same

 

[peppercorn78]



Yea but I'm trying to avoid the broguing, so I'm leaning towards a punched captoe or single stitched captoe.

On another note, did AE attached a heel tap on these rush streets? http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2005_1_40000000001_-1_

That's just built into tho dainite sole standard. It's on my MTO boots.

 

[mdubs]

Gentlemen,

My third AE MTO. I actually acquired them from a fellow SF member.

Dundee Chukka Boot
-Walnut Shell Cordovan
-Double JR Soles
-Brown Split-Reverse Welt
-Brown Edge

Spoiler

-Mike

 

[mdubs]

My forth MTO, submitted today. Hopefully done in a month or two.

Strand Semi-Brogue Balmoral
-BROWN CORDOVAN
-INDEPENDENCE LINING LEATHER & INSOLE
-CHILI WELT
-WHEELING AND FUDGING
-INDEPENDENCE OUTSOLE AND HEEL
-MEDIUM BROWN TRANSPARENT EDGE DRESSING

So I have heard that they won't do wheeling (fudging) anymore, but it looks like it is being handled on more of a case-by-case basis depending upon the design. I will post more on this later today.

Anyone have a pic of Medium Brown Transparent Edging? I am trying to get as close to the Alden Antique edging (pictured in the spoiler) as possible.

Spoiler

-Mike

 

[NWTeal]

My forth MTO, submitted today. Hopefully done in a month or two.

Strand Semi-Brogue Balmoral
-BROWN CORDOVAN
-INDEPENDENCE LINING LEATHER & INSOLE
-CHILI WELT
-WHEELING AND FUDGING
-INDEPENDENCE OUTSOLE AND HEEL
-MEDIUM BROWN TRANSPARENT EDGE DRESSING

So I have heard that they won't do wheeling (fudging) anymore, but it looks like it is being handled on more of a case-by-case basis depending upon the design. I will post more on this later today.

Anyone have a pic of Medium Brown Transparent Edging? I am trying to get as close to the Alden Antique edging (pictured in the spoiler) as possible.



-Mike

Nice makeup!

 

[nosrep123]



I answered your question in the other thread, remember? Shell cordovan is not burnished the way calfskin is.

Trying to do that will just cake polish on top of the finish, as it won't be absorbed like on calf or cow.

Shell develops rich Patinas and color variations over time through use and exposure to the sun.

Yes you did. I interpreted what you said earlier as, it's possible but just won't look nice. anyway thanks for the followup, looks like my dream shoe is not possible

 

[halfnhalfnhalf]

Gentlemen,

My third AE MTO. I actually acquired them from a fellow SF member.

Dundee Chukka Boot
-Walnut Shell Cordovan
-Double JR Soles
-Brown Split-Reverse Welt
-Brown Edge















-Mike

 

[halfnhalfnhalf]

So I have heard that they won't do wheeling (fudging) anymore, but it looks like it is being handled on more of a case-by-case basis depending upon the design. I will post more on this later today.

That sucks! I hope it's for a good reason.

 

[afewnicethings]

My first MTO

Promontory Point
Natural Chromexcel Leather
Double leather sole
Flat brown welt
Natural antique transparent edge
Brass eyelets with three speed hooks
Tan stitching





Thinking about doing a Kenwood in Natural CXL for the warmer months.

 

[YoungSweet]

\








-Mike

Mike- The toes look slightly darkened/burnished. Is that just the color variation from the shell at the right place? or were you able to do something special to them?

 

[mdubs]



Mike- The toes look slightly darkened/burnished.  Is that just the color variation from the shell at the right place? or were you able to do something special to them?

Sir, that is just how they came out. I have done nothing to them to darken the toes in particular.

 

[mdubs]

Response from Paul Grangaard Regarding AE MTOs
Particularly about not doing Old Lasts/Designs

I received a response from Paul Grangaard on Sunday morning. Paul was very genuine and straightforward in his response and due to this, I do not feel it proper for me to post his full E-mail on the internet. If anyone would like to see the actual response, please PM me, and I will gladly pass it along, but I will ask that you do not publish it. I have also added a bit of my continuation of his points.

Paul goes into several factors that are causing Allen Edmonds to reign in the MTOs for the time being. They are related to the shortage of Shell Cordovan, the raising costs of materials, and the growth that AE has experienced over the last few years. One can easily ascertain that growth means more production, which means that they have to ramp up production to meet demand, this can be done via faster production or more staff. Both of these approaches cause issues when producing anything, particularly something that requires the level of skill that only comes from experience, such as shoemaking. Thus, the production yield of AE has been reducing and with increased cost of materials, that can be hard for a business. Doing complicated and one-off MTOs makes things harder (especially with the typical MTO customer’s level of scrutiny and expectations for blemishes, come on, I know you all have your laser nanometer measuring devices). AE is trying to rework some stuff internally to try and ensure that they can keep up with demand, while increasing yield and maintaining the same quality.

Paul is committed to continuing to support the MTO program and is actually going to run all MTOs through one production line stuffed with his more experienced shoe makers. But, as you can guess making changes on a corporate level with a minimal impact to production is hard and will just require some time (and patience on our part), but he is shooting to getting changes implemented quickly or by the next “boot season”. They may still limit things, if they feel like the design is just too difficult to do on a one-shoe basis, but will do their best to make everyone happy.

I think these changes and ideas are for the best of both AE’s and our interests. Hope that this helps and have a good one fellow AE MTO aficionados.

-Mike