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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 116

post #1726 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjamin831 View Post

I find tailor armholes to lower and less mobile than than the normal option. Isn't that weird?

Not sure about lower, but I think that's the tradeoff for the slimmer look that ones with the tailored armholes.
post #1727 of 1740
Anyone else have an issue with the collar points on the Roma spread curling up throughout the day when wearing a tie, even when using collar stays? I think I'll be going back to the president spread because of it
post #1728 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

Not sure about lower, but I think that's the tradeoff for the slimmer look that ones with the tailored armholes.

Pretty sure its actually lower, I have shirts dating back before tailored armholes is an option and the armholes made with the normal option are higher with all other measurements being equal.
post #1729 of 1740
Looking to find out what fabric is shown in the brow picture. Any ideas?
post #1730 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjamin831 View Post


Pretty sure its actually lower, I have shirts dating back before tailored armholes is an option and the armholes made with the normal option are higher with all other measurements being equal.

Oh, to be clear, I wasn't disputing the observation. I had no idea lol.

post #1731 of 1740

I have at least three shirts with the Roma Spread collar. The points do tend to curl up but it's not noticeable until I take my blazer or sweater off. As OldSchoolCool posted 6 days ago, PC just updated their Roma Spread collar to have a stiffer interlining in the collar band. They might have also changed the overall collar shape slightly. I'm not sure. I do know that when they updated the stiffness and interlining of the Roma Cutaway they also adjusted the shape slightly, so assume they would have done likewise for the Roma Spread. I haven't tried the updated version yet, but maybe others can shed some light. 

 

From an earlier post by @ccallis

Quote:
Soft Roma Cutaway & Roma Cutaway Design Changes

We made some very slight adjustments to these collar shapes. The collar band is slightly smaller, now 1.5" in the front and 1 9/16" in the back. We also increased the scope (curve) of the collar a bit and moved the points forward just 1/8". The collar below is the old Roma Cutaway and the red line in the shape of the new Roma Cutaway:

 

You could also just embrace it as part of that stylish dishevelment or sprezzatura thing. Personally, if everything is still perfectly pressed and crisp at the end of the day it can feel a little contrived and overdone for me. Sometimes I appreciate that my clothes reflect that I spent the day working. I am guilty of loving non iron for travel though. Also, FWIW I have far more shirts with the Roma Cutaway and think it's great.

post #1732 of 1740

@shirtsnob

I've wondered about the forearm taper too.

I've gotten all my shirts with the triple pleat and also added a quarter inch to both the cuff and the bicep to account for pulling around the forearm. I realize that not everyone rock climbs or has disproportionately large forearms but it does seem like a number of other folks out there also have issues with it. Seph Skerrit the founder has pretty large forearms compared to his overall frame. That said, I'm still a huge fan of PC but would love from them to continually tweak the dimensions.

post #1733 of 1740

what fabric on a jacket should i have if i wear linen shirts?

post #1734 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluescholar View Post

@shirtsnob



I've wondered about the forearm taper too.



I've gotten all my shirts with the triple pleat and also added a quarter inch to both the cuff and the bicep to account for pulling around the forearm. I realize that not everyone rock climbs or has disproportionately large forearms but it does seem like a number of other folks out there also have issues with it. Seph Skerrit the founder has pretty large forearms compared to his overall frame. That said, I'm still a huge fan of PC but would love from them to continually tweak the dimensions.


 



IMO its clearly an issue...and on some shirts it can take away my enjoyment in wearing them

I dont want triple pleats, or making my cuff or bicep larger.....

they need to re configure the bicep to forearm ratios
post #1735 of 1740

I agree. I will absolutely NOT widen the cuff measurement. I've rejiggered my bicep measurement, which seemed to do the trick (though wider than most here would prefer). However, that's also left the cuff, perhaps due to a cutting error, a bit wider than I'd prefer. Granted, this was also on a line/cotton shirt, which may have played a role.

 

I'm going to try the wider bicep measurement on standard cotton shirts, both french and barrel cuff, to reach a better determination. I'm also open to going triple pleat, but, if neither adequately does the trick, I'm quitting PC in search of more forearm friendly accommodations.

post #1736 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

I agree. I will absolutely NOT widen the cuff measurement. I've rejiggered my bicep measurement, which seemed to do the trick (though wider than most here would prefer). However, that's also left the cuff, perhaps due to a cutting error, a bit wider than I'd prefer. Granted, this was also on a line/cotton shirt, which may have played a role.



 



I'm going to try the wider bicep measurement on standard cotton shirts, both french and barrel cuff, to reach a better determination. I'm also open to going triple pleat, but, if neither adequately does the trick, I'm quitting PC in search of more forearm friendly accommodations.


 




yup.......

I hear that.......and feel about the same
post #1737 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by shirtsnob View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

I agree. I will absolutely NOT widen the cuff measurement. I've rejiggered my bicep measurement, which seemed to do the trick (though wider than most here would prefer). However, that's also left the cuff, perhaps due to a cutting error, a bit wider than I'd prefer. Granted, this was also on a line/cotton shirt, which may have played a role.

 

 

 

I'm going to try the wider bicep measurement on standard cotton shirts, both french and barrel cuff, to reach a better determination. I'm also open to going triple pleat, but, if neither adequately does the trick, I'm quitting PC in search of more forearm friendly accommodations.

 




yup.......

I hear that.......and feel about the same

 

I will third this- it only matters because I love PC.  A very small increase in width on average would make sufficient room for my long, thin forearms.

post #1738 of 1740

 

Hi guys,

 

I'm looking for the collar which would be most similar to the image above. I'm guessing it would be the Milano II. Also, is the Milano II's collars as stiff as in the picture? Really not a fan of soft collars. Thanks in advance.

post #1739 of 1740
Hi guys!

I had my first shirt made with the Roma soread collar (V.1 before update). When I tried the shirt there was a pretty obvious placket bump issue. The issue persisted after several washes and presses. PC suggested that the placket bump was caused because the collar was sitting on the wrong part of my neck. To correct it we increased shoulder slope and raised the first button by 1/2 an inch. At first it seemed like the adjustments had corrected the issue but, after a few washes the placket bump has returned... with a vengeance. My question is has anyone experienced this issue specifically with the Roma spread collar and is there another spread collar that sits slightly lower on the neck that might be less likely to cause a placket bump?

Thanks!
post #1740 of 1740
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolcool View Post

Hi guys!

I had my first shirt made with the Roma soread collar (V.1 before update). When I tried the shirt there was a pretty obvious placket bump issue. The issue persisted after several washes and presses. PC suggested that the placket bump was caused because the collar was sitting on the wrong part of my neck. To correct it we increased shoulder slope and raised the first button by 1/2 an inch. At first it seemed like the adjustments had corrected the issue but, after a few washes the placket bump has returned... with a vengeance. My question is has anyone experienced this issue specifically with the Roma spread collar and is there another spread collar that sits slightly lower on the neck that might be less likely to cause a placket bump?

Thanks!

Have you tried adding a neck forward adjustment? If not, try neck forward 1" and there's a good chance that'll go away.
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