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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 102

post #1516 of 1607
Has anyone switched from tailored to full armpit, if so what was the result? Did it reduce tightness in the armpit?
It seems that armpit hole size is pretty much controlled by the arm size.
post #1517 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolcool View Post

Anybody have experience with the Miles or Stanton end on end?


I have the Stanton end on end in both blue and light blue and have no complaints. Great way to add some visual texture to a blue business shirt.

post #1518 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsink View Post

Has anyone switched from tailored to full armpit, if so what was the result? Did it reduce tightness in the armpit?
It seems that armpit hole size is pretty much controlled by the arm size.

Would also be interested in knowing the difference in fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiemczee View Post


I have the Stanton end on end in both blue and light blue and have no complaints. Great way to add some visual texture to a blue business shirt.

Thanks eddiemczee! Was thinking of picking up both colors as well. Especially like the blue colored stanton end on end.
post #1519 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsink View Post

Has anyone switched from tailored to full armpit, if so what was the result? Did it reduce tightness in the armpit?
It seems that armpit hole size is pretty much controlled by the arm size.

 

I made this change, yes. I found that after a few shirts, I was really experiencing too much tightness in the armpit, but that my arm size seemed roughly correct (no excess billowing or tightness on my bicep). As such, I tried going to to a full armpit and a larger chest size and have found success that way in reducing armpit tightness. Also, fwiw, I haven't felt that my shirt fit really suffered at all as I think the "full" armpit setting is still much more tailored than you get with many off-rack brands (so long as the rest of your measurements are solid). 

 

The other factor I have found to make a big difference is the shoulder slope. The only time I felt that the full armpit setting actually caused a little excess fabric was on a shirt where I experimented with normal shoulder slope instead of my usual square shoulder settings (I have broad shoulders but my traps are nothing special). As such, I suppose I would qualify my support for the full armpit setting as working well for me with the square shoulder settings that seem to hit a nice middle point for me in terms of comfort/look. 

post #1520 of 1607
post #1521 of 1607

Hi,

 

I'm trying to nail down the fit of my first linen shirt from Propercloth. I've had a good amount of success getting nice looking shifts in other fabric types from propercloth but I'm not having much luck with this, it seems excessively wrinkly (not linen wrinkles, as in fabric waves because there's too much fabric).

 

I made a post about it in the fit advice thread but thought it was worth mentioning here if anyone can help me out.

 

The post is here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/6855#post_8611234

 

Any help is much appreciated!

post #1522 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by yoshiwaan View Post
 

Hi,

 

I'm trying to nail down the fit of my first linen shirt from Propercloth. I've had a good amount of success getting nice looking shifts in other fabric types from propercloth but I'm not having much luck with this, it seems excessively wrinkly (not linen wrinkles, as in fabric waves because there's too much fabric).

 

I made a post about it in the fit advice thread but thought it was worth mentioning here if anyone can help me out.

 

The post is here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/6855#post_8611234

 

Any help is much appreciated!

 

seems like the billowing in the back is your biggest concern. to reduce the fabric in the back, you have a few options. first, you can reduce the width at the waist, but this will take an equal amount of fabric from the front and the back. so if you're shirt is too tight on the front, then this would be a bad idea. alternatively, you can add darts to the back. this will remove fabric from the back, and add that same quantity of fabric to the front to maintain the same waist diameter. or, you could do both. unfortunately, proper cloth doesn't yet offer the ability to remove fabric from just the back panel, which i wish they would!

post #1523 of 1607

Proper Cloth also "calculates" the hip measurement based on your other measurements. If the hips are too tight, it makes it difficult to tuck in properly, and the shirt will tend to ride up, exacerbating the bunching around the midsection.

 

Also, linen can sag in that way. My linen shirts do that to some degree, even when built to the same specs as my cotton dress shirts.

post #1524 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeam3130 View Post

seems like the billowing in the back is your biggest concern. to reduce the fabric in the back, you have a few options. first, you can reduce the width at the waist, but this will take an equal amount of fabric from the front and the back. so if you're shirt is too tight on the front, then this would be a bad idea. alternatively, you can add darts to the back. this will remove fabric from the back, and add that same quantity of fabric to the front to maintain the same waist diameter. or, you could do both. unfortunately, proper cloth doesn't yet offer the ability to remove fabric from just the back panel, which i wish they would!


I've considered ordering my next shirt with darts just so I can remove a little bit of fabric in the lower back. The reason I haven't is because the shirts I currently have by proper cloth fit perfectly fine in the front and I wouldn't want them to be any slimmer. So basically your saying at this time there is no way to include darts without the front width increasing?
post #1525 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny3pcg View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeam3130 View Post

seems like the billowing in the back is your biggest concern. to reduce the fabric in the back, you have a few options. first, you can reduce the width at the waist, but this will take an equal amount of fabric from the front and the back. so if you're shirt is too tight on the front, then this would be a bad idea. alternatively, you can add darts to the back. this will remove fabric from the back, and add that same quantity of fabric to the front to maintain the same waist diameter. or, you could do both. unfortunately, proper cloth doesn't yet offer the ability to remove fabric from just the back panel, which i wish they would!


I've considered ordering my next shirt with darts just so I can remove a little bit of fabric in the lower back. The reason I haven't is because the shirts I currently have by proper cloth fit perfectly fine in the front and I wouldn't want them to be any slimmer. So basically your saying at this time there is no way to include darts without the front width increasing?

 

I am new to this, pleased with my sizing so far but hoping to ever improve.

 

Maybe a slight reduction in midsection/waist size along with the darts would translate as a net reduction in back without an expansion in front?  

post #1526 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captm2016 View Post

I'm thinking of getting a presidential cutaway as a more fun option to wear to the office (when I don't have to be super cbd). Does the "soft" presidential cutaway work well with a tie for this purpose or is it more a casual only option?

Sorry to bump, but I found a perfect size with my last PC shirt and want to get a few more, probably in sea island cotton. I have a presidential spread 2, but want some more fun/aggressive. Would a soft collar suit my needs or am I better off with presidential cutaway, Roma or Milano? I would always be wearing these with a tie. What difference in general does the soft collar have?
post #1527 of 1607

I tried darts in a proper cloth shirt before and didn't particularly like the result. I had to get the darts taken in further by a tailor.

 

If I'm going to have a tailor work on darts I think I'd prefer they were starting from scratch than already existing potentially incorrect darts.

post #1528 of 1607
I am looking to get my first PC dress shirt. Any opinion between going with a traditional English Spread vs the Presidential Spread? Thank you in advance for the feedback.
post #1529 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captm2016 View Post


Sorry to bump, but I found a perfect size with my last PC shirt and want to get a few more, probably in sea island cotton. I have a presidential spread 2, but want some more fun/aggressive. Would a soft collar suit my needs or am I better off with presidential cutaway, Roma or Milano? I would always be wearing these with a tie. What difference in general does the soft collar have?

Soft collar = unfused lining.I really like the soft roma, but wouldn't wear without collar stays.

 

For can get both the cutaway and roma in soft collars, unless options have changed. I'm going to give the cutaway a try...I have a few Milano collared shirts as well, and I love them. Not nearly as in your face as the site makes them seem, but definitely not a wimpy collar either.

post #1530 of 1607
Hey Guys,
Haven't been too active of late, but wanted to give you an update on some great new stuff in case you missed it.

Washed Denim & Indigo Shirts Are Back!
Our signature washed indigo shirts are back with a bunch of new styles. Really love the lighter textured indigo from Albiate -- ridiculously soft and just stunning texture in person: http://propercloth.com/the-washed-denim-shirt

Iceland Campaign
We launched our Fall '16 collection a few weeks ago and you can check the full thing here - https://propercloth.com/collections/iceland
It was definitely our best to date with a great icy blues, charcoal greys, and pine green color story. If you've ever been curious about these things are shot, we did a behind the scenes video, too: https://propercloth.com/iceland-behind-the-scenes

Hudson Jackets
We recently released a whole new range of sport coats that we've been hard at work on for a while now. We really love these Hudson Jackets and think they're a truly incredible product. They're fully-canvassed, soft shouldered, use premium Italian wool/cashmere fabrics from E Thomas, two-buttoned, unlined, have functional sleeve buttons, shanked horn buttons, and patch pockets. Check. Them. Out. (and look out for suits and expanded sizing later in winter)

http://propercloth.com/hudson-jacket


Saved Style Profiles
After lots of development and testing, we finally added a feature to save shirt style profile. You just go to https://propercloth.com/design-a-shirt/ and enter in the style detail you prefer, then click "Save Style". Voila, it'll be saved right there for easy access forever. No more issues with forgotten pockets or small details you missed while building the shirt.

Now once you have your size set and know the design of the shirt you like, you can have all that info saved into your profile so that designing a shirt takes like 2 seconds. It's awesome.

New NYC Showroom
For those guys based in or around New York, we're going to be moving into an awesome new space in two weeks. Our whole team is really pumped for it. The space will get much, much bigger with a new look to the layout/design. Come check it out when we launch the week of Oct 31-11/6, we'll announce the location closer to opening.

Chris
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