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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 97

post #1441 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmellBlind View Post
 

I've got it on a couple shirts. I find it a bit too stiff, especially in the collar band causing a certain amount of discomfort. Comparing with an older standard President Spread, the collar itself feels the same but the band is certainly stiffer. Lovely shape, however. I will be sticking to the standard President Spread.

Do you have a pic with jacket and tie? Would love to see the relationship between collar points and lapels.

post #1442 of 1471
Has anyone gotten the polos?

And are they only in those three colors/only standard sizing?
post #1443 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post

I have a nice white broadcloth dress shirt from Sid Mashburn, but it's slightly too big in the collar, and several things about it bug me (mostly the fit).

My goal is to replace it at some point.

So, except for the DJA Sea Island cotton, does anybody have a white broadcloth they highly recommend?

Stanton and Mercer are basically the same price. Which is nicer? Any experience?

Mercer is no good. Miles was nice (and inexpensive) albeit very light, but sadly out of stock for now.

 

The Canclini Broadcloth they once had was also brillant (very crisp and opaque while not too heavy), sadly this is another great fabric that wasn't ever replaced ...

 

I'll try the Stanton now.

post #1444 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by AriG View Post

Mercer is no good. Miles was nice (and inexpensive) albeit very light, but sadly out of stock for now.

The Canclini Broadcloth they once had was also brillant (very crisp and opaque while not too heavy), sadly this is another great fabric that wasn't ever replaced ...

I'll try the Stanton now.

What did you dislike about the Mercer?
post #1445 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post


What did you dislike about the Mercer?

Hard to say, since I was able to compare now with two much better fabrics (in my opinion). Just to point out the differences:

 

The Mercer felt kind of stiff (bad stiff) with a slight sheen (which I absolutely can't have), where was the Miles is very soft, completely 'matte' and doesn't wrinkle easily, so looks crisp all day despite its weight. The Canclini meanwhile, while no sheen either, is very crisp and just feels higher end.

 

Fwiw, I could be slighly biased though because I hadn't dialed in my fit on the Mercer yet, which makes the other two look all the better.

 

Hey, for all those who can't decide, get one of both if you have your fit straight, can't ever have too many crisp, white shirts.

post #1446 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pb924 View Post
 

Do you have a pic with jacket and tie? Would love to see the relationship between collar points and lapels.

I do not, unfortunately. It would look very similar to the standard president collar with a jacket and tie, however.

post #1447 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Has anyone gotten the polos?

And are they only in those three colors/only standard sizing?

I got a grey polo recently and really like it, mostly the fit and fabric as well as the stand-up collar. The cutaway is a bit aggressive and the sleeves slightly long but otherwise very solid.
post #1448 of 1471
Hi all,

While visiting NYC i had the chance to stop by PC and get measured for my first custom shirt. When i recieved it there were a few fit issues that needed to be adressed (see 3 pictures below):







1- sleeves were slightly too short (35"). I added 0.5" to bring them up to 35.5".

2- body was too short (31"). Increased by 2.5" to bring it up to 33.5".

3- chest was too tight and there was some pulling under the armpit causing lines starting from the armpit and running up to the collar bone. My original measurement was 22". This was increased by 0.75" and brought up to 22.75".

4- the midsection originally measured 19". This was a little tight so it was increased to 19.5".

5- there was some fabric pooling behind the collar and the placket lifted between the 1st and 2nd button. I was explained that this was caused by the collar sitting too low on my neck. A 1/2" neck back was suggested to correct this issue.

I recieved my 2nd shirt this week. The sleeve length, body length and collar issue were all fixed. However, I still believe the chest and midsection need to be corrected (see pictures 4,5 and 6). PC was gracious enough to do a final rendering of the shirt. I have been given a few suggestions by their fit specialist. However i wanted to get some feedback before i pull the trigger, since this is my last chance to get it right.







1- chest: initially was supposed to measure 22". We increased this measurement to 22.75". While the armhole is much more comfortable, the chest feels too full. In fact the shirt loses its tailored look altogether. Another issue i would like to raise is that the chest measurement on the first shirt is flawed and actually measures 21.5".The chest measurement of the second shirt is accurate (22.75"), however the increase of 0.75" is based on the wrong measurement.

That being said, would you suggest dropping to 22" as the shirt was originally intended to fit or 22.25"? Should the sleeve width or armpit be altered to cause less pulling under the arm?

2- midsection: there is a bit of excess fabric in the lower back. I was thinking of nipping this by 0.25" down to 19.25" (so half way between shirt 1 and 2).

Sorry for the long post guys and thank you in advance for your help!
post #1449 of 1471
Is there a comparison photo of the button down II versus the old standard button down?
post #1450 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolcool View Post







1- chest: initially was supposed to measure 22". We increased this measurement to 22.75". While the armhole is much more comfortable, the chest feels too full. In fact the shirt loses its tailored look altogether. Another issue i would like to raise is that the chest measurement on the first shirt is flawed and actually measures 21.5".The chest measurement of the second shirt is accurate (22.75"), however the increase of 0.75" is based on the wrong measurement.

That being said, would you suggest dropping to 22" as the shirt was originally intended to fit or 22.25"? Should the sleeve width or armpit be altered to cause less pulling under the arm?

2- midsection: there is a bit of excess fabric in the lower back. I was thinking of nipping this by 0.25" down to 19.25" (so half way between shirt 1 and 2).

Sorry for the long post guys and thank you in advance for your help!

 

1.) I would drop to 22.25. 

 

2.) You could drop it, but keep in mind that lower back "fullness" (as you call it) often won't be alleviated by taking in the side seam. You could also add darts, which should significantly help. 

 

Otherwise the shirt looks good. Stop fretting. 

post #1451 of 1471
Thank you for the advice! And yes, maybe i pay too much attention to detail -_-
post #1452 of 1471
Has anyone who had collar collapsing trouble in the past found new collar options that work for them?

I had 2 shirts in early '15, one Roma Cutaway and one President Spread, and neither would stay "up" with a jacket without a tie - literally, the collar would collapse flat within a minute of normal movement. Both went to charity shortly thereafter, ouch. (Note: I did not engage PC to address either, I could/should have but just didn't have time then to give it proper attention - my fault) .

But I'm still a PC fan and I'm excited about enough of their recently added fabrics to consider rolling the dice again but I'd feel better if someone with a similar experience could say ""I had the same thing and this [new collar/collar option/interlining option] fixed it for me!"

Anyone?
post #1453 of 1471

What do you mean by collapsing collar?

post #1454 of 1471
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspasp View Post

What do you mean by collapsing collar?

Imagine you're wearing a shirt without a tie, and especially with a jacket, you want your collar to stay "up" where the collar itself remains mostly vertical. Like this (although we all expect Brosnan's shirts to be perfect):




Where as my collar would refuse to stay up and would fall flat, much like the pic below.



My limited understanding of the problem is that it's as much collar as it is placket design and the construction that unifies them around the collar tab/tie space. If that sounds like I know what I'm talking about, I don't, I've just cobbled it together from other's observations...
post #1455 of 1471
I've had this issue with all my PC collars, soft or otherwise, if worn sans tie...not unmanageable, but do require occasional adjustments throughout the day
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