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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 85post #1261 of 17154/4/16 at 3:56pmpost #1262 of 17154/6/16 at 9:24ampost #1263 of 17154/6/16 at 9:56amAlso, my 2 cents on the soft Roma - the collar band needs a stiffener, that's why it is drooping, collar can stay unused and soft. I also think it fails at zero tie space, the Roma spread does a better, but not perfect job of less/zero tie space. Need to move that button point slightly to create more overlap.
I heard mention of new collars, I am hoping these issues might be addressed.post #1264 of 17154/6/16 at 10:15ampost #1265 of 17154/7/16 at 12:55pm
If you go to design a shirt there are now new collar options available including a President II. The President II has 3 1/8" collar points and the tie space has been slightly reduced. One thing I've noticed is that the regular President collar and Roma cutaway are now advertised (in the design feature) as having a light fused interlining. That's in contrast to the description on the Collar Style subpage which advertises them as having a stiff fused interlining.
It appears that the stiff President, Roma Cutaway, etc. are no longer offered as options either.post #1266 of 17154/8/16 at 5:30pmpost #1267 of 17154/11/16 at 12:57pmBlue University Stripe Oxford w/Soft Roma Cutaway.
- the Soft Roma really is awesome. A treat to wear. Could see it being an issue with lighter weight cloths, but, with a tie, don't imagine it would bother me.
- rounded 2 button cuff is where it's at for me. I have a few the the mitered (beveled?) cuffs, and I much prefer this option.
-tried for the "collar back" options, by 1/2", and I REALLY like it. I think it allows me to naturally stand more erect, from a posture perspective.
All in all, very happy with the buy!post #1268 of 17154/11/16 at 1:01pmHey Guys--
Washed Denim & Indigo
Just wanted to give SF the heads up that we just brought back our washed denim and indigo program for this week only. It's something we as a team always get particularly excited about and this time we're bringing back four of our popular existing styles, as well as adding the indigo black watch linen in the photo below and a lightweight indigo pindot print.
You can check the full collection below:
The Albiate Indigo Blackwatch linen has almost sold out already (only enough fabric for ~20 shirts left)...will most likely be gone before tomorrow afternoon.
Shirts will be on sale through Sunday April 17th, or until we sell out of all the fabric for this round--I'll post an update if that is going to happen before Sunday. All shirts will ship out on May 4th, and will deliver on the 9th or 10th.
New Collars and Stiff Collars
There's been a lot of discussion on these and just wanted to help clarify. We discontinued our unfused stiff collars and introduced three new collars in their place: English Spread II, President Spread II, Londoner II.
We found the stiff unfused collars were a bit confusing to customers who wanted either a crisp collar for work or a more laid-back unfused collar for casual shirts. The English Spread II, President Spread II, and Londoner II are all made with a new interlining configuration that, overall, is slightly more stiff than the existing English Spread, President Spread, and Londoner collars.
On these, we use a special interlining in collar band that is less pliable than the one in the collar leaf in order to have the collar stand up better--especially once it's been worn for a while laundered multiple times. The shapes are ever-so-slightly adjusted, too. Not sure how many people will notice, but the collar bands have slightly different curves to give the collars more roll (i.e. a rounder beak point). We also extended the collar leaf by 1/8" on the President Spread.
We're very excited to see how people respond to these--think they'll be great for those who want a dressier collar that stands up very well and looks incredibly clean.
--Chrispost #1269 of 17154/11/16 at 7:31pmDoes anyone here have experience with placket bump problems? I have shirts with the standard button stance and the lowered .5" stance, and all have varying degrees of placket bump. It's one of those problems that's pretty annoying once you notice it.
My soft placket shirts (all with the lowered stance) have a verrrrry minimal bump that I'll be able ignore. The standard placket shirts I own (with both the standard and lowered button stance) have a pronounced bump, though.
I have one shirt on order with no placket, and maybe that'll work like the soft placket and minimize the problem. I'm hesitant to raise the button stance 1.0" because the lowered stance looks so good tieless.
Any experience on here?post #1270 of 17154/11/16 at 7:39pmpost #1271 of 17154/12/16 at 6:14ampost #1272 of 17154/12/16 at 7:46ampost #1273 of 17154/12/16 at 8:45ampost #1274 of 17154/12/16 at 8:49am
Ha. Yeah, we have a slimmer than traditional, but still pretty standard, placket width. Maybe a little more modern and dressy vibe, still wider than some plackets I see on the market. No plans to add an additional width or change our current one right now. Definitely understand where those who like traditional American shirtmaker's oxfords are coming from with this. Perhaps we will reconsider in the fall!post #1275 of 17154/12/16 at 2:44pm
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