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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 84

post #1246 of 1653
Soft long one button cuff plus some wristraff

post #1247 of 1653
Oh, and here is the soft roma cutaway on top of my Eidos chambray shirt. So close it's basically identical, save for being lightly lined where as the eidos shirts are totally unlined AFAIK.

post #1248 of 1653
That's crazy. Good find @mossrockss
post #1249 of 1653
I'm glad that I have a soft Roma coming shortly
post #1250 of 1653

I'm getting married in May and wearing a tux at the ceremony. I'm getting ready to have a tuxedo shirt made from ProperCloth and was looking for suggestions on fabric. My original plan was to use a nice Thomas Mason Twill fabric but I was told today that is to casual...Broadcloth could work but I don't like how wrinkly it gets. Any suggestions? Is twill really too casual?

post #1251 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pb924 View Post

I'm getting married in May and wearing a tux at the ceremony. I'm getting ready to have a tuxedo shirt made from ProperCloth and was looking for suggestions on fabric. My original plan was to use a nice Thomas Mason Twill fabric but I was told today that is to casual...Broadcloth could work but I don't like how wrinkly it gets. Any suggestions? Is twill really too casual?

All depends on what YOU think/want. I can almost guarantee nobody (fiancé/eventual wife included) will give a second thought to twill's formality, or lack thereof.

In regards to broadcloth, it is considered (again, nobody will care, but for argument's sake) a bit more formal. It will wrinkle a bit more, but ask yourself where it will wrinkle. The answer is (presumably) nowhere it won't be covered by your tux. If it's a tux shirt (pleat/pique facings) a broadcloth would do you fine.

That said, I'd suggest you consider a royal Oxford. It's considered more casual than even twill (which I don't cannot understand), but it provides a visual effect similar to a pique facing tux shirt.
post #1252 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post


All depends on what YOU think/want. I can almost guarantee nobody (fiancé/eventual wife included) will give a second thought to twill's formality, or lack thereof.

In regards to broadcloth, it is considered (again, nobody will care, but for argument's sake) a bit more formal. It will wrinkle a bit more, but ask yourself where it will wrinkle. The answer is (presumably) nowhere it won't be covered by your tux. If it's a tux shirt (pleat/pique facings) a broadcloth would do you fine.

That said, I'd suggest you consider a royal Oxford. It's considered more casual than even twill (which I don't cannot understand), but it provides a visual effect similar to a pique facing tux shirt.

Thanks for the input. They have a few dobby fabrics on the website that add some of that picque like texture. I currently have a pleated front shirt that I'm not sold on. Thinking of making my order a plain front

post #1253 of 1653
I also am blah about pleated front shirts. I quite like the pique front look, but you're definitely pigeon holing yourself if you do. Plain front obviously allows the shirt to be worn in non-tux scenarios...
post #1254 of 1653

great advice by eric..

 

 

 

twill

royal oxford/dobby

broadcoth

 

all good

 

btw..who told you twill is cas?

post #1255 of 1653
What is the overall opinion of the stiff vs the standard collars, functionally speaking? I bought one of the lighter blue twills and with a stiff president, and I almost feel like the collar is too heavy for the fabric to support it when worn open and is difficult to keep upright.
post #1256 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

I also am blah about pleated front shirts. I quite like the pique front look, but you're definitely pigeon holing yourself if you do. Plain front obviously allows the shirt to be worn in non-tux scenarios...


I don't agree with this advice. A tuxedo shirt is a specialized item and I don't think there's any point in trying to wear one without wearing a dinner jacket. It won't do double duty.

 

My recommendation would be to get a pique (marcella) front shirt and make the body of the shirt in a lightweight broadcloth. Remember, no one will ever see the body of your tuxedo shirt. Only the collar, front, and cuffs are visible under your dinner jacket and you never, ever take that off.

post #1257 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzai View Post

What is the overall opinion of the stiff vs the standard collars, functionally speaking? I bought one of the lighter blue twills and with a stiff president, and I almost feel like the collar is too heavy for the fabric to support it when worn open and is difficult to keep upright.


I have one (stiff president spread, I believe). It's okay. I didn't rush to my computer and order a bunch more. It's good without collar stays and good for a bow tie. I haven't tried to wear it without a tie.

post #1258 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 


I don't agree with this advice. A tuxedo shirt is a specialized item and I don't think there's any point in trying to wear one without wearing a dinner jacket. It won't do double duty.

 

My recommendation would be to get a pique (marcella) front shirt and make the body of the shirt in a lightweight broadcloth. Remember, no one will ever see the body of your tuxedo shirt. Only the collar, front, and cuffs are visible under your dinner jacket and you never, ever take that off.

I definitely failed in my clarity, because we are in 100% agreement here!

 

While a plain front is more versatile (i.e. can be worn in other situations without looking silly), versatility should not be the goal of a tux shirt...it is meant to be different from a regular shirt, as a tux is meant to be different from a regular suit.

 

Pique front and broadcloth would also be my favorite. I'd be inclined to throw Royal Oxford in the mix, but I feel that may clash a bit with a pique facing shirt.

post #1259 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

I definitely failed in my clarity, because we are in 100% agreement here!

 

While a plain front is more versatile (i.e. can be worn in other situations without looking silly), versatility should not be the goal of a tux shirt...it is meant to be different from a regular shirt, as a tux is meant to be different from a regular suit.

 

Pique front and broadcloth would also be my favorite. I'd be inclined to throw Royal Oxford in the mix, but I feel that may clash a bit with a pique facing shirt.

:slayer:

 

I'm not a fan of Royal Oxford cloth in general. I donated the one shirt I had made from it, some time ago. So I'm not a good person to judge whether or not it would work. I tend to think not, as it is heavier than would be necessary. But there's no reason I can think of why you couldn't use it, if you wanted to.

post #1260 of 1653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 

:slayer:

 

I'm not a fan of Royal Oxford cloth in general. I donated the one shirt I had made from it, some time ago. So I'm not a good person to judge whether or not it would work. I tend to think not, as it is heavier than would be necessary. But there's no reason I can think of why you couldn't use it, if you wanted to.

I went with Thomas Mason broadcloth and picque front 

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