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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 78

post #1156 of 1607
Hello,

This is my first order and would love to get some advice about how to tweak the fit. Please excuse the pics--they were taken after one wash and iron, followed by a full day at the office. The shirt is usually going to be worn without a tie and tucked in.

I made a mistake ordering the sloped shoulders. I thought it was asking about my shitty posture... Is that what is causing the tenting under the collar in the back or behind the armpits? Also, I have no idea if the armholes are too big or the chest is too large, but it seems that there's a lot of room under there.

What can I do to improve the fit?

Thanks in advance!









post #1157 of 1607
Bump behind the collar - how did you guys fix it?
post #1158 of 1607
I've failed on 3 PC shirts so far and wondering if others were able to. Can a tailor fix the bump manually if PC cannot?
post #1159 of 1607
Anyone else have problems with elbows blowing out? I got fitted in New York and I told them I had issues with my elbows tearing in the past and I needed a custom shirt to stop this problem. However my shirt elbow ripped after about 5 wears. Is there any hope for me besides rolling up my sleeves at work?
post #1160 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsink View Post

Bump behind the collar - how did you guys fix it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsink View Post

I've failed on 3 PC shirts so far and wondering if others were able to. Can a tailor fix the bump manually if PC cannot?

Yes, someone please tell us. I thought it was probably from ordering the "sloped shoulder" option, when my shoulders don't slope very much. Should this fix it? Also, how do I fix the tenting behind the armpit when my arms are down?
post #1161 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironist View Post

Anyone else have problems with elbows blowing out? I got fitted in New York and I told them I had issues with my elbows tearing in the past and I needed a custom shirt to stop this problem. However my shirt elbow ripped after about 5 wears. Is there any hope for me besides rolling up my sleeves at work?

 

 

This happens to me constantly with any brand.  The only thing you can really do is buy shirts with wider/baggier sleeves, and don't rest your elbow on your desk as much (if you do that).  I try to buy shirts with heavier Oxford cloth, as the elbows tend to last longer in those.

post #1162 of 1607

Neck bump should be fixed with the neck back/forward option right?

post #1163 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Neck bump should be fixed with the neck back/forward option right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawguy 

Moved mine back .5, still there. Widened shoulders, no go. Also 'very sloped' shoulders, which made it much worse (the roll wrapped around the collar to the front.
post #1164 of 1607
@lawguy - Try adding the Neck Back 1/2" to your custom fit. If it doesn't work with Neck Back 1/2" you can increase to Neck Back 1" in the future. Add Tailored Armpit fit to help get rid of extra fabric on front and back of sleeve around armpit. You could also decrease sleeve width by 1/4" or 1/2" to remove more.

@Ironist Start by going from 1 pleat forearm to 2 pleat forearm. We're hoping to add a 3 pleat forearm to the site by the end of the week, too. If these aren't enough to remove stress from the elbow, increase cuff 1/4"-1/2" if it's a little snug. If cuff isn't on the tighter side, increase sleeve width. As much as it has to do with fit, it also has to do with fabric. Selecting fabrics that are 2-ply in warp and weft will help. And selecting things that are a bit heavier does too. Stay away from higher thread count fabrics 70s-100s single ply and 140s+ 2ply will often be too fine and rip out.
post #1165 of 1607

@ccallis Is there a status update on the collar changes (e.g. Roma, Presidential, etc.)?

post #1166 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccallis View Post

@lawguy - Try adding the Neck Back 1/2" to your custom fit. If it doesn't work with Neck Back 1/2" you can increase to Neck Back 1" in the future. Add Tailored Armpit fit to help get rid of extra fabric on front and back of sleeve around armpit. You could also decrease sleeve width by 1/4" or 1/2" to remove more.

@Ironist Start by going from 1 pleat forearm to 2 pleat forearm. We're hoping to add a 3 pleat forearm to the site by the end of the week, too. If these aren't enough to remove stress from the elbow, increase cuff 1/4"-1/2" if it's a little snug. If cuff isn't on the tighter side, increase sleeve width. As much as it has to do with fit, it also has to do with fabric. Selecting fabrics that are 2-ply in warp and weft will help. And selecting things that are a bit heavier does too. Stay away from higher thread count fabrics 70s-100s single ply and 140s+ 2ply will often be too fine and rip out.

Thanks!
post #1167 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiemczee View Post
 

@ccallis Is there a status update on the collar changes (e.g. Roma, Presidential, etc.)?

What changes are you talking about?

post #1168 of 1607

@AriG

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccallis View Post


We're making a number of smaller tweaks to many different collars, currently. Really excited about how they'll improve performance (ie how collars stand up, comfort, back collar height, collar roll). We're taking our time with these, so I wouldn't expect any shape updates go live in the next month.

We actually just updated the unfused interlining on our Soft Franklin, Soft President, and Soft Roma collars to use a slightly more full bodied brushed non-fusible interlining from Germany. Again...subtle difference but a good one!
 
post #1169 of 1607
I love PC, but the options can be overwhelming.

Can anybody offer recommendations for the following three shirts?

1. White casual / business casual shirt that can be worn open necked under a sport coat year round day and night

2. Versatile patterned (eg. the interesting part of the ensemble under a patch pocketed navy sport coat) casual / business casual shirt that can be worn open necked under a sport coat year round day and night.

3. White dress shirt that can be worn under a suit with or without a tie for cocktail attire evening events.

Which specific PC fabrics, collars, placket and cuff styles would you recommend? Looking for value, versatility, and a dash of style.

ps. (No OCBDs, too old Ivy League for me)

Thank you in advance for your suggestions!
post #1170 of 1607
@beyondmars2020

No one else answered your questions so I'll give it a shot. Not sure what your budget or personal style is but here's my recommendations:

1. The Albini White Oxford Chambray fabric since it could be dressed up or dressed down. If you want something cheaper and more durable than the Heavy White Oxford but that might feel thick in the summer as well look more on the casual end of the spectrum. http://propercloth.com/fabrics/white/casual/
I'd get soft two button cuffs since most gents I see wear one button so it's a subtle "dash" of style, soft placket, and either the Soft President Spread collar to play it safe or the Soft Roma Cutaway collar if you want something a little more big and bold. It's my favorite collar for how it looks with a tie and without a tie and how it tucks under a blazer.

2. For something visually interesting but still versatile I have heard that PC might release another batch of the Albiate denims again. If so I'd be tempted to snatch up one of the patterned denim shirts. You could also try one of the Katazome faded prints like this if you feel bold:
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/katazome-faded-arrow-print-1714.html
If you wanted something more affordable but still visually interesting maybe get the Wythe Blackwatch Plaid. http://propercloth.com/fabrics/wythe-blackwatch-plaid-1760.html
For this shirt I'd also do a soft collar like, soft placket, and soft cuffs.

3. The white royal herringbone seems like a good value and while still a plain white shirt has the herringbone texture for a little extra style.
http://propercloth.com/fabrics/120s-white-royal-herringbone-1798.html
Would get a President Spread collar so it'll work with a bow tie or long tie. Also mitered cuffs and regular placket. If you upgraded buttons to mother of pearl on only one of your three shirts I'd do it on this one. Also would consider doing the Stiff Unfused President Spread collar instead of the regular President Spread if your into the whole sprezzatura thing.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprezzatura

Hope that helps. Maybe others more knowledgeable and stylish than myself might chime in.
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