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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 74

post #1096 of 1607
I think he was just trying to brag about his drop at this point haha
post #1097 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 

I don't like darts because I feel like the whole point of MTM is getting something that fits, and looks clean. Also reminds me of RTW department store box pleats etc.


Box pleats make darts look like sartorial royalty.

post #1098 of 1607

Hi Guys,

 

I'm having a bit of an issue with my Proper Cloth dress shirts and I'm hoping some of you here may have some advice to offer. I've searched the forum a bit and found a few other guys with the same issue (pull lines), but not sure how their resolution turned out.

 

When I was out in New York last month, I stopped in at the Proper Cloth showroom and got measured. I placed my first order and the shirt arrived as planned.

 

The first shirt was ordered with a "Very Square Shoulder" and "Neck Forward 1" setting. I've attached some pictures showing the problem of the "pull lines" from the button going up to the shoulder area. After they reviewed a variety of photos that I sent in, I was told we should increase the chest from 21.75" to 22.25" and also go from "Very Square Shoulders" to "Very Sloping Shoulders" and retain the neck-forward attribute.

 

Proper Cloth says they aren't "completely confident that we will be able to completely eliminate the pulling lines as shirts really do act differently on different bodies." They've been great to work with, but wanted to check on here before I place another order to see what's really going on as I believe the issue isn't something that's not correctable.


For those of you familiar with Proper Cloth, you'll notice that my button stance is raised, and is not their "standard." They also recommended that I reduce the sleeve length by 1/4", which worked out well in the alteration.

 

I look forward to any advice!

 

post #1099 of 1607

try  the collar buttoned up...any changes?

 

 

maybe its the non std button placement?..

 

 

shirt looks a bit big...yet it grabs up there....hmmmm

 

I don't see how a "sloping" fit would help.....u don't seem to have creases from a "slope"

post #1100 of 1607
Quote:
 

try  the collar buttoned up...any changes?

 

 

maybe its the non std button placement?..

 

 

shirt looks a bit big...yet it grabs up there....hmmmm

 

I don't see how a "sloping" fit would help.....u don't seem to have creases from a "slope"

 

Yes, I have tried the collar buttoned up and the change is rather evident as shown in the attached photo which I sent off to Proper Cloth yesterday as shown here, with the exception of a little "arc" in the fabric that you can see just beneath the topmost button.

 

As for the "shirt looks a bit big" note... I was afraid of toying with it anywhere else in fear of it getting too tight in areas. I want to nail the "pull lines" however, if possible.

 

I currently wear Spier & Mackay shirts, and the pull lines are SOMEWHAT evident on certain shirts, but NOTHING like I'm experiencing with the Proper Cloth shirt. I'd stick with Spier & Mackay, but I've been finding they keep changing their fits and adjusting things here and there, and every time I order new shirts (spring and fall) I get new shirts that don't fit like the old... especially in the sleeve length. Plus, Spier & Mackay got rid of their "scalloped" cuffs on their off-the-rack full-spread shirts, which I REALLY was enjoying. Just too many inconsistencies with them lately. I have some Spier & Mackay shirts that are off by an entire inch due to shrinkage, their changes to fit, etc.

 

With that in mind, I want to get this Proper Cloth fit sorted out as I really want to make it work with them.

 

 

post #1101 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuarkXP View Post
 

 

Compared to the first pictures you posted, the most recent looks pretty good to my eyes with very little if any pulling in the shoulder area.

post #1102 of 1607

buttoned looks much better. is the shirt too big on the shoulders (too wide)?

post #1103 of 1607

you should try the std button set up..it may help.....

 

keep us posted

post #1104 of 1607
Thank you, all, for your feedback thus far,

As for the shirt looking fine buttoned up, I never need to wear ties at the office, so the shirt it always worn without.

When I got home tonight, I put the shirt on and left the top two buttons undone. The pull lines were evident still, but now going up from the third button.

I just heard back from Proper Cloth, and the gentleman with whom I am dealing with there says that he and one of his co-workers still stand by the "very sloped shoulders" option.

Finally, as for one of you asking me if the shoulders are too big, I can't say for sure as I don't know what exactly is considered within "the norm."

I had such high hopes, too, after being measured that all my "shirt woes" would finally be put to rest.
post #1105 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuarkXP View Post


A couple of suggestions. Go back to standard button setup and maybe increase your yoke by about 1/2" or so. Something is causing the pulling in the upper area and if it's not the chest or shoulders (which look fine) it could be the yoke. Hard to tell without pictures of the back or seeing shirt in person.
post #1106 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by shirtsnob View Post

try  the collar buttoned up...any changes?

 

 

maybe its the non std button placement?..

 

 

shirt looks a bit big...yet it grabs up there....hmmmm

 

I don't see how a "sloping" fit would help.....u don't seem to have creases from a "slope"


Here you go http://i.imgur.com/fPQ5UEvh.jpg

Pic of the button behind the collar on the Colorado BD.
post #1107 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuarkXP View Post

Thank you, all, for your feedback thus far,

As for the shirt looking fine buttoned up, I never need to wear ties at the office, so the shirt it always worn without.

When I got home tonight, I put the shirt on and left the top two buttons undone. The pull lines were evident still, but now going up from the third button.

I just heard back from Proper Cloth, and the gentleman with whom I am dealing with there says that he and one of his co-workers still stand by the "very sloped shoulders" option.

Finally, as for one of you asking me if the shoulders are too big, I can't say for sure as I don't know what exactly is considered within "the norm."

I had such high hopes, too, after being measured that all my "shirt woes" would finally be put to rest.

I have the same issue. Something is just very tight in the upper (2nd button) no matter what I do. My last shirt went in as "very sloped shoulder". Waiting for the results. This may do the trick. Now with the top two buttons undone you may see lines just due to the way the fabric hangs. Something to keep in mind.
post #1108 of 1607
Quark, I thin the problem we both have is bag our shoulders lean toward. At least that's my theory.
post #1109 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsink View Post

Quark, I thin the problem we both have is bag our shoulders lean toward. At least that's my theory.

 

Funny you mention this, because I stood in front of the mirror last night and noticed that if I "shrug" my shoulders and push them out a bit, the lines go away. The more I stand up "straight," the more evident the pull lines.

 

I have to say, the old phrase of "misery loves company" holds true here! HAHA! It's really nice to know there's someone else out there with the very same problem. I take it your issue is with Proper Cloth shirts, too?

 

There SEEMS to be plenty of room in the back, but I did measure one of my Spier and Mackay shirts (no pull lines) and the yolk is an inch larger, coming in at 18" rather than the 17" on my Proper Cloth shirt. Perhaps "Mute" was correct in pointing out that it's the yolk?

 

Did you adjust your yolk adjustments or just the shoulder slope so far?

 

Here are some pictures of the back of the shirt which I sent to Proper Cloth as well.

 

 

 

post #1110 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuarkXP View Post

Funny you mention this, because I stood in front of the mirror last night and noticed that if I "shrug" my shoulders and push them out a bit, the lines go away. The more I stand up "straight," the more evident the pull lines

Yeah, your shoulders look just like mine. Let me tell you this, i've been down a long road roughly 1.25 years trying to get it right. I've tried increasing the arms, increasing the chest, increasing the yoke, neck back .5, sloping shoulder. I also have a 18" yoke so we may have the same body type also. My very sloping shoulder shirt should arrive in 2 weeks. Ill let you know how it goes. This way you dont throw $ away... It's really your only hope. I too suffered your frustrations because I have shirts that a much slimmer (for example 1" smaller in the chest) without any major pulling. That said the shirt you have looks ok. You may want to let out the bottom a bit if it squeezes when you sit.
Edited by bigsink - 2/9/16 at 8:45pm
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