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Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 68

post #1006 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post


Have you tried the other BD collars they offer? The standard button down and Colorado both have less roll, but I've never ordered them for that very reason.

It's also worth noting I'm a bigger guy, so I find the bigger the roll, the better it looks on me.


...Ive always like the softness of the BB roll........but it see,seems like the PC collar is bigger....

 

the CBD has a button in rear of collar....not a big fan of that....but I'm heading down there manana

post #1007 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post


I wish it has a slightly larger roll (Kamakura-ish would be nice), but the current roll is more than adequate and improves as the shirt breaks in a little. My fingers are crossed for a bigger roll, but it's good enough that I'm leaning towards ordering some more ivy collars in the near future.

(Unless a PC rep would like to step in and tell us in a little more detail what's upcoming with the collar changes...)

@ccallis

Agreed. The Ivy buttondown could be bigger.

Any updates coming soon on the polos? Has anyone tried one? I'd love to get one, but I'd love to hear thoughts first.
post #1008 of 1607
I decided to give PC a try and used the custom sizing option rather than send in measurements. I went with a white broadcloth with the presidential spread and am very pleased with the fit. I just received my first PC shirt and was very pleased with fit and quality. Only quibble is the one of the MOP buttons broke after I washed it.

I just placed a second order with the soft Ivy collar and made some minor tweaks to the fit.
post #1009 of 1607
I'd prefer they leave the soft ivy button down as-is and simply create a larger "Italian ivy" buttondown suited for wearing with jackets to add to the lineup. Am I right?
post #1010 of 1607
Good idea!
post #1011 of 1607

 

 

 

 

 

Would like some fit adjustments for my next order. I feel like I am getting very close to nailing it, but I would like some additional advice. I feel like the arms can be slimmed down a bit at the bicep, but I don't want the forearm to change because it is already a little snug when I bend my arm. The waist looks okay, but I think it needs to be slimmed down a tad because the shirt billows over my belt when I get up and down from my desk during the day. For a shirt that will only be worn for a business environment (tucked in).. I believe the length is good. I am also trying to create a hybrid shirt that will allow me to wear both tucked in and untucked casually. Picture is below.. All the dimensions are the same as the above shirt except the length is shorter by 1 inch. Let me know if I could go a bit shorter.. but I am worried this wont be very easy to tuck if I do so. Thanks for the input! 

 

 

post #1012 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChandlerBing12 View Post














Would like some fit adjustments for my next order. I feel like I am getting very close to nailing it, but I would like some additional advice. I feel like the arms can be slimmed down a bit at the bicep, but I don't want the forearm to change because it is already a little snug when I bend my arm. The waist looks okay, but I think it needs to be slimmed down a tad because the shirt billows over my belt when I get up and down from my desk during the day. For a shirt that will only be worn for a business environment (tucked in).. I believe the length is good. I am also trying to create a hybrid shirt that will allow me to wear both tucked in and untucked casually. Picture is below.. All the dimensions are the same as the above shirt except the length is shorter by 1 inch. Let me know if I could go a bit shorter.. but I am worried this wont be very easy to tuck if I do so. Thanks for the input! 




Very close! Looks good. Will comment on the dress shirt because that is more my comfort zone ...

You nailed a lot of my points so this will be slightly redundant.

I would still try to slim bicep area. Maybe a touch will help and wouldn't leave the armhole too tight (I'm in the process of trying to fix the same problem - was too lose, narrowed it (now too tight), and so my next shirt I did a middle-ground adjustment. So will see when it comes in tomorrow.

Waist needs slimming as you said.

Tighten cuffs

shorten sleeve by 1/4".

Yoke looks good but I wonder what 1/4" less would do. You have a great build for clothes to look good so don't be afraid to go slim.

Just my thoughts YMMV
post #1013 of 1607
By the way, is the dress shirt Roma cutaway?
post #1014 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by wigglr View Post

By the way, is the dress shirt Roma cutaway?

It is! Love this collar!

post #1015 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChandlerBing12 View Post
 

It is! Love this collar!

 

My favorite! And a fellow Bostonian, huh!?

post #1016 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by wigglr View Post
 

 

My favorite! And a fellow Bostonian, huh!?

Yessir.. Currently working in NH though. In terms of the waist sliming.. what would be your recommendation? I want to be comfortable during the day because I am sitting a lot. 

post #1017 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChandlerBing12 View Post
 

Yessir.. Currently working in NH though. In terms of the waist sliming.. what would be your recommendation? I want to be comfortable during the day because I am sitting a lot. 

 

I would say it's a combination between what you're comfortable in and what you want aesthetically. If you have a shirt that meets both, measure that and use that measurement. Another option: have somebody pin some excess fabric and adjust the measurement that way.

 

Again, you're slim, so I wonder how much would just be getting used to a slimmer fit. I have a little belly, so I understand the desire to not have it hugging at your stomach. My initial impression is .5". You can always have it slimmed down by a tailor, record the change, and use that for future purchases if you err on the side of a smaller adjustment.

post #1018 of 1607

Trying to trim down on a few issues with my (second) Proper Cloth Shirt -

 

1) First issue is clearly the fact that just above the midsection, there is major bunching of fabric under the armpits.  I don't think I have sloping shoulders as this doesn't happen on any of my other shirts.  I can't figure out what is causing this, but it looks horrible during the day.  Is it due to the fact that I have rear back pleats on the shirt?  This is very weird as the shirt armpit to armpit fits fine it's the fact that it appears it's only "larger" in between my armpit and midsection - no idea how to fix.

 

 

2) The second issue is that during the day, unless I really jam the shirt down into my pants and do some crazy tucking is the fact that I have major side bunching - which would be fine if not for the fact that it is so clearly wider than the midsection where it looks like I'm wearing a dress...I'm not sure how to address this; I was told it was perhaps due to the fact of my chest (20.50) -> midsection (17.50) -> Bottom hem (19.75); is this a large difference?  I'm not sure I can decrease the bottom hem much more as it's already JUST fitting easily over my crotch..any moreso and it'd be pulling at the button.  Is there an alternative way of solving this?  Perhaps explaining I need to "lower" the midsection on my body or something?  Would that just be increasing the length of the shirt even more?  It already covers my crotch...haha

 

Another shirt from Blank Label this time:

 

 

So, on this shirt I took the measurements of my shirt above, but altered slightly; Midsection from 17.50 -> 17.00, Chest stayed same at 20.50, Increased the Yoke from 17->17.25, shortened the shirt (31->30) and bottom hem (19.75->19).  Main issue now is the fact I can't raise my hands above my shoulder height; does this mean the armholes are too low?  I have no idea how to fix as they are the same length as shirt above..but obviously inhibiting my movement.  Shirt is also noticeably tighter when I put it on across my back from armpit to armpit.  Anyway to solve this?

 

Another issue here is the fact that I added darts where I didn't on the other shirt.  This may have also helped with the waist suppression; however, there is something weird going on with fabric bunching horizontally across my back right above the pleats...any way how ti fix?

 

 

Thanks!

post #1019 of 1607
I had some similar problems (loose fabric around my ribs and bunching when I tucked my shirt in), I've gotten it mostly corrected just by decreasing my midsection width and adding darts. I've also noticed the armhole moves up and down a bit depending on how slim the arms are, so i made mine as slim as possible without restricting my movement. I have a shirt being cut right now that will hopefully have eliminated the excess fabric on my sides.

I can't speak for the bunching around the darts. Are you sure you don't just need to smooth out that area when you first put the shirt on? I know that's the obvious answer, but it's the best place to start.
post #1020 of 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

I had some similar problems (loose fabric around my ribs and bunching when I tucked my shirt in), I've gotten it mostly corrected just by decreasing my midsection width and adding darts. I've also noticed the armhole moves up and down a bit depending on how slim the arms are, so i made mine as slim as possible without restricting my movement. I have a shirt being cut right now that will hopefully have eliminated the excess fabric on my sides.

I can't speak for the bunching around the darts. Are you sure you don't just need to smooth out that area when you first put the shirt on? I know that's the obvious answer, but it's the best place to start.

Thanks - I might go with the blanklabel measurements then an alter a bit.  Do you know how to figure out 2 things:

 

1) How do I fix the issue where on my back, from armpit to armpit it's a little tight?  Not a large amount, there's no pulling or anything but it almost just fits - if I increase the "yoke" does this fix that issue or is it a chest measurement issue?

 

2) Would lowering armhole measurement move it "up" and allow for more freedom of movement?

 

Thanks

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