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Italian CBD - Page 7

post #91 of 155

does not mean he invented it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post


TAKE YOUR BOOTS FROM WWII AND GTFO

---

<3
post #92 of 155
WWI asshole.
post #93 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

not cbd but i like this

tumblr_mm0358PlTs1qbcjkvo1_500.jpg
Disagree, also CBD
post #94 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

WWI asshole.

sorry, my bad. forgot how old you were for a minute.
post #95 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Disagree, also CBD

Tan solaro (?) fabric is CBD? Or do you mean to say that the suit fabric color/material is allowed under Italian CBD?
post #96 of 155
Oh wait, I was viewing from a phone, thought it was just brown. Yeah, Solaro sucks.
post #97 of 155

Thanks for that link, Patrick, epic thread! And brown as CBD? To quote Manton:

 

Quote:
 You are clearly NOT CONSERVATIVE. Enjoy your Armani, Eurotrash.
post #98 of 155
No brown is UCBD
post #99 of 155
that thread is amazing. manton at his best.
post #100 of 155
Don't care if they're CBD or not, those boots look great.
post #101 of 155

Excuse the silly question, I'm just learning: what really is the difference between Italian and American, or English CBD? I don't really know enough of the details to be able to understand that (except that I love the Italian look).

post #102 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

I think Winkelmann's style is too polished and attention-grabbing to be considered Italian CBD, isn't it?

Attention grabbing?

Not sure how you get that.

He looks good. And I imagine running Lamborgini gets you a fair amount of attention. But not sure what is too look-at-me-y about dark suits and navy ties.
post #103 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

For what it is worth, Manton "invented" CBD and he wears balmoral boots.

I've also seen him wear a braided belt.

Manton invented CBD but he isn't CBD. At least not all the time.
post #104 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post


Attention grabbing?

Not sure how you get that.

He looks good. And I imagine running Lamborgini gets you a fair amount of attention. But not sure what is too look-at-me-y about dark suits and navy ties.

 

Really? How about the sky-high shirt collars of almost Karl Lagerfeld-like proportions, the very close fitting suits, the gargantuan wrist watches and the myriad of #menswear bracelets?

Not exactly old-fart Italian industrialist CBD, if you ask me...

 

But I agree with you, he sure does look good.

post #105 of 155
Thread Starter 

So what's the difference between Italian and American CBD today?  One possible contrast is that Italian CBD is made by some of the best Italian tailors and shirtmakers.  Of course, there's nothing stopping an American conservative business dresser from traveling to Italy and buying his clothes there.  But aside from an elegant minority, most American businessmen do not do that, so certain national trends in CBD emerge.  They're trends so they describe tendencies rather than universals (I say this to ward off questions about natty Americans who dress like Italians and sloppy Italians who dress like Americans).  To illustrate, let's look at the CEO of General Motors and the President's Cabinet and compare them to Cleav's Italian businessman and Gianni Agnelli. 

 

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cleav View Post




 

 

 

American businessmen today tend to wear very dark charcoal or navy suits in a single-breasted notch-lapel model.  The fabrics are hard-finished worsted.  The suit shoulders are wide and the fit rather boxy.  The elegant minority influenced by Italy or Britain aside, most American businessmen do not wear pocket squares.  The shirts are usually white.  If they're spread collar, it's a moderate spread with very little roll, though BDs are sometimes worn.  The collars sit lower and expose more of the neck. The ties, as the Duke of Windsor once pointed out about American dress, are often in highly saturated colors like bright red, blue, or purple.

 

The first thing you notice about Italian CBD is that businessmen do not confine themselves to hard-finished worsted, but will wear textured or napped fabrics like flannel or worsted flannel. The color range of the suits is wider. Instead of the American nearly black, you see lighter shades of navy and charcoal, and more blue-greys, mid-blues, and mid-greys.  Italian businessmen will wear both DB and SB suits. The shoulders and waist are more fitted, though not to an extreme, fashionable degree (we're talking here about Italian CBD rather than Pitti Uomo).  The shirts will have a higher collar band to frame the face more elegantly. The spread collar might be wider, and it will have more of a roll. The Italians are masters at the most subtle, light, and beautiful shades of pale blue shirts.  They combine them with tasteful navy, grey, or blue-grey ties, the tones complementing the shirts, instead of the harshly saturated ties seen on American politicians. Ties can sometimes be made of wool or cashmere, which you'd never see on a Cabinet member in the US. Italian businessmen will finish their outfits with a discreet white pocket square.

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