CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE FW2014

Not digging this as much as the last two FW collections-- it's a bit sleepy this time around, less imaginative.

That said, I'm intrigued by the elongated and squared-off silhouettes of the tailored garments. I def need to get my hands on one of those crazy double-breasted suits. And most of the coats look great.

I'm a sucker for swaths of camel and drapey tweed. but agree this one is a little flat and sleepy. those blazers are droopy in a bad way. I quite like that first coat and the tan raincoat/trench/parka thing tho. would wear those for sure.

on a different note, I always enjoy the location/setting of his photography -- this one included. curious, what do you think of this collection sipang?

Parker said:

I'm a sucker for swaths of camel and drapey tweed. but agree this one is a little flat and sleepy. those blazers are droopy in a bad way. I quite like that first coat and the tan raincoat/trench/parka thing tho. would wear those for sure.

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I liked the first coat too. But generally, soporific.

Swing and a miss

I think it's great.

all the proportions look clunky to me, with only a few exceptions (agree that the first coat is really nice). it's a weird combination of too large and too structured (which is very 80s), as opposed to large but languid or relaxed or whatever you want to call it. i think that's why i never really love the stuff i see of his in person either. the fabrics often seem a little too rigid for the cut. he seems to do a lot of really structured twills, for instance, at least from what I've noticed. clearly it's intentional. he's got a really defined vision. it's just not for me.

I see what you're saying, though it's not quite fair to characterize the whole line as stiff/structured. Each collection has lots of pieces that drape really well

I'm also curious to see how the suiting will look once it actually hits stores, since retailers tend to style his stuff in a much more fitted way than the lookbooks suggest.

Also where's the knitwear????!!!! this season is way lacking in knits



Bam!ChairDance said:

I see what you're saying, though it's not quite fair to characterize the whole line as stiff/structured.

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i didn't. i was just saying that about the fabrics I've handled in person. admittedly I haven't seen everything, just what assembly ny and atelier have carried for the last couple years. i do think the designs in this collection tend more in that direction than past ones though.

I dunno, this doesn't really seem like a departure to me at all. Just Lemaire doing more Lemaire. I think you guys are confused because it's shot in a very different way than previous collections have. The ideas and fabrics are pretty similar...these a little less tweed/textured fabric here, that's about it.

Don't think anyone called it a departure. Just a less successful collection

No idea how the stuff will look in stores or on ppl but you know what ? I think this really cool. Sure, it lacks the relaxed opulence of the previous collections and it might look a bit flat (although the lighting and background are at least partially to blame for that) but as a collection and aesthetic proposition (!) I think it's actually stronger and leaner than FW13 and FW12. I always appreciate how Lemaire manages to channel inspirations and silhouettes from the past in such a subtle and considered way that it never devolves into pastiche but instead adds depth and character to his outfits. It always feels current (clearly opinions vary on this) and yet it's also strongly evocative of something older. I think this is because the way Lemaire references his inspirations and influences is never too obvious or literal but it goes to the essence of things: it cares more about being pragmatic than being iconic. The end result is that it looks less like fashion and more like real everyday no nonsense outfits worn by real people (however stylish), there's a concreteness to it.

What's great in this case is that Lemaire achieves this with such a pared-down collection. He cuts the jackets a bit longer and the leathers a bit looser, he layers with vests etc. Those minimal tweaks are a testament to the subtlety and sensibility of his approach. It's almost nothing and it's just enough to hint at 50s and 80s looks (Parisian looks I'd venture but that's pure conjecture), but just in passing.

thanks sipang. very well put. I didn't see the 50s reference at first but now I kinda do -- I guess the jeans and biker jacket-vest (duh) or the teddy boy length blazer. you're very right about his subtle approach.

This is what I see