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Bespoke morning suit - Local tailor or London?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Hi,

I'm getting married this August and have decided to wear a morning suit for it. I want to go down the bespoke route because I often find it very difficult to fit into off the rack suits due to my chunky proportions! I am looking to complete everything within a £1500 budget (coat, waistcoat, shirt and trousers). I was wondering whether to go for a local tailor or go for a more renowned tailor in London. I live in Nottingham work in Sheffield so if either one of these cities have a very good tailor I think its better as I think I might have more control over the end product. Any suggestions?

 

Additionally, all the groomsmen would be wearing morning suits (picture attached below). Obviously I want to stand out and was thinking perhaps going for a darker shade of grey (almost black maybe?) + a double breasted waistcoat. Although not particularly traditional, I want to match the colour of the coat to the trousers, in-line with the groomsmen's attire. Any thoughts?

 

 

 

31YYnkLXHYL._SX182_SH10_QL100_.jpg M&S morning suit groomsmen would wear. 

post #2 of 15
with that budget you would not have much options in London I would think. I think the Coat itself would use the whole budget from a travelling tailor. It may be worth contacting few places to check the prices with them. Off the row tailors have been featured before on this forum.

You may want to check the short-list the OP made on this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/346331/first-experience-london-bespoke-suit-under-2k

I would wear the traditional striped trousers and dark morning coat and let the groomsmen wear the light grey morning suit (I believe Prince Charles did that to the wedding of his younger brother)
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

Yeah I know the budget is nowhere close to savile row type tailors - but I had something more like Cad and the Dandy in mind. Thanks for the suggestion on the striped trousers - I'll try to google that wedding to see if it works with the morning suits! :)

post #4 of 15
post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the picture. This might work - although I don't want to differentiate too much from the groomsmen. Might make the trousers the same shade-ish so there is a common element running through.

 

Also does anyone have any recommendations on tailors in nottingham or sheffield?

post #6 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasun View Post

Thanks for the picture. This might work - although I don't want to differentiate too much from the groomsmen. Might make the trousers the same shade-ish so there is a common element running through.

...

Do you mean the striped trousers in a shade closer to the darker coat? There are "cashmere stripes" (that how morning stripes are called) with a predominately black motif, but as I understand these are more appropriate for funerals..
post #7 of 15
Sheffield is now a desert for decent tailors - sign of the times.

There is Barney Goodman, a long established name and now run as a visiting tailor to avoid the cost of premises. The two guys that run it were employed and trained by the original and much lauded BG. They do have a web site and may well be capable of doing what you want, They would visit you at your office.

Beyond that there is Manoj in Broomhill. Not sure what he would be like or his experience as he dabbles in women's tailoring and alterations - so may be a jack of all trades and master of none.

I am not sure if Jon Fairwweather still works from his home in Rotherham. He was in a decent way of business I Sheffield when he had his own work room but now may be unsuitable.

Beyond that there is nothing of note. All the old firms Cunningham. Furness and Duke etc have now gone.

Let us know what you do - would be interesting to see what the Sheffield firms can offer nowadays, I have not used one for 25 years.
post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies. 

 

marcodalondra - I was thinking more of a shade close to the grey of the morning suit the groomsmen would wear - with stripes ofcourse. With the coat being of a darker shade. I might still go with a same colour top/bottom to match the groomsmen though. Will have to talk it out with a tailor maybe as well!

 

  • GBR - Thanks that's very insightful. I've actually got an appointment with Ted Williams of sheffield this afternoon. Have you heard of this firm? 
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasun View Post

Thanks for the replies. 

marcodalondra - I was thinking more of a shade close to the grey of the morning suit the groomsmen would wear - with stripes ofcourse. With the coat being of a darker shade. I might still go with a same colour top/bottom to match the groomsmen though. Will have to talk it out with a tailor maybe as well!

[*] GBR - Thanks that's very insightful. I've actually got an appointment with Ted Williams of sheffield this afternoon. Have you heard of this firm? 


Yes I have though I have never used them This is a firm owned by Brook Taverner the cloth merchants and it was formerly associated with another local firm (Isidore Newman) on Charles Street which it closed about 20 years back. I did use Newman for several years until closure but I felt their quality fell away as they were also associated (via BT) with a Doncaster firm and the local work room was closed and I felt the product was becoming factory orientated. I did not move to Ted Williams as they had wished and presumably hoped because of the tailing off on quality and personal service. I then moved to Jon Fairweather via Barney Goodman (Mark 2) and then elsewhere to Gordon Yao in Hong King (whom I still use) when I travelled there regularly.

Barney Goodman (Mark 1) was good and I did get one suit from them when I moved to Sheffield. They were the epitome of good provincial bespoke tailoring.

It would be interesting to know how you get on.
Edited by GBR - 1/20/14 at 7:43am
post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 

GBR - Thanks again. I went to Ted Williams yesterday. They seem like a quite professional/knowledgable outfit - but then again I haven't been to any others so have no benchmark! But all their work is carried out in Yorkshire (not abroad like some other firms) so I feel it might be a good choice. They are quoting me around £1,450 - £1,500 for a three piece morning suit done in a 30% mohair & 70% S100 Wool mix. I am also looking at a couple of more tailors in Nottingham today - British Tailoring Company, and Roy Smith Tailors. Has anyone used these before? 


Edited by Kasun - 1/21/14 at 6:44am
post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasun View Post

GBR - Thanks again. I went to Ted Williams yesterday. They seem like a quite professional/knowledgable outfit - but then again I haven't been to any others so have no benchmark! But all their work is carried out in Yorkshire (not abroad like some other firms) so I feel it might be a good choice. They are quoting me around £1,450 - £1,500 for a three piece morning suit done in a 30% mohair & 70% S100 Wool mix. I am also looking at a couple of more tailors in Nottingham today - British Tailoring Company, and Roy Smith Tailors. Has anyone used these before? 

Interesting, it would also be good to learn of the comparisons. Can I suggest that you do not neglect to try Manoj in Broomhill, parking and public transport are both easy, I am currently trying to engage him as a maker of occasional casual items (trousers and sports coats to supplement my primary tailor in Hong Kong. He is however slow to deal with his emails.
post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 

I'll definitely give him a visit.

 

I went to Roy Smith Taiilors yesterday and funnily enough they had the exact same material and quoted me around £900 for it! (£1,500 at Ted Williams) 

 

He has been doing this for 40 years and he does everything himself. They don't have a proper shop front - more like a small upstairs room he tailors at. But I guess compared to a place like Ted Williams, this cuts down overhead dramatically and hence lower prices for me. Has anyone heard of them? He seems quite experienced and I can't justify the £600 price increase for what will most likely end up the same. Any thoughts?

post #13 of 15
Going from a dingy work room is the traditional manner in which a small local tailor would work and is no bad thing. To actually be able to see a row of garments in work is excellent - you can see and feel. No hiding place.

Whether his offer of £900 is strictly comparable is debatable and whether he has sufficient experience of tails another issue - the bogs tell us that a specific set of skills is needed that some of the best cutters/tailors do not have. See what Manoj suggests and then you have a straight choice, I suspect I know which I would leave for the final choice and it probably does not Ted Williams in the selection!
Edited by GBR - 2/4/14 at 5:03am
post #14 of 15
Did you select a tailor?
post #15 of 15

Kasun - I'd be interested in how you got on, and which tailor you ended up with. I might be also shopping for a nice new suit in Sheffield some time soon.

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