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Educate me on Alumo - Page 3

post #31 of 50
I do have some G&R, but it is the cotton cashmere, so not useful to you. Have you looked at the Alumo Triplo? I would think you would love it.
I have one Riva popline, which has held up well through about a half dozen washings, but it is a dinner shirt so is only worn a few hours at a time
post #32 of 50
Thread Starter 
Triplo does sound intriguing. Just worried it will be a bit heavy. Ideally, these shirts will work year-round.

I want someone to explain to me how they kept their Riva shirts alive past 30+ wash cycles. If there is some dark art I can learn, I will go back to Riva.
post #33 of 50
The seasonality of shirtings is mostly aesthetic for me, except at the extremes. Triplo is not an extreme, but it looks and is very solid. I would still wear it in the summer, the same way I would wear an OCBD but not a cotton/wool or brushed cotton shirt. But if you wouldn't wear an OCBD in summer because of the weight, then I doubt you would wear Triplo. The texture shouldn't be an issue, though.
post #34 of 50
Thread Starter 
Interesting. I wear OCBDs in summer. Like you, for me, seasonality in shirts is mostly a matter of aesthetics and custom, not utility.

I will have to get my hands on some Triplo samples. Sounds promising. That said, I do not want a distinctly heavy shirting.
post #35 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Up until a few years ago, I'd never heard of Rubinelli. Now they seem to come up in every shirting discussion. How do they compare to Bonfanti?

I have yet to hear from anyone else who has regularly worn their Riva shirts for more than a few years. Since mine were made at different times from different production runs, I doubt there was something wrong with the shirtings I happened to receive. It just seems like intrinsically fragile stuff. I am not willing to spend several hundred euros on a shirt that cannot get more than 20 wears without looking terribly frayed.

Does anyone else have extensive experience with Riva's competitors? A handful of wash cycles doesn't tell anything.

I personally knew Grandi & Rubinelli for a long time but had always to buy it from a shirtmaker and only therefore commissioned few things as it is cheaper for me to do CMT and buying shirting on sale. Only relatively recently I came across a shop that buy some of their offering in rolls, and I bought their superfine 100% linen for example that to me have no competition around. I have always been shown their book by reputable shirtmakers (both in Naples and Rome) and never heard any comments that were not absolutely favourable. They used to supply Borrelli when they were based in San Sebastiano al Vesuvio (before the move to Nocera (SA) that was the beginning of the end for the original company) and were perhaps used in the infamous Royal Line. They make a lot of 200/2 stuff, in a more industrial scale then Bonfanti (max 170/2) even though they are still family own and relatively small, but have a good offering at other levels. 170/2 vs 170/2 G&R gave me the impression of a slightly better hand.

My poplins and voile from Riva have always lasted a long time. One wear and wash cycle, Marsile hand soap directly on collar, cuffs and underarms (some time a touch of vinegar there as well), then delicate wash cycle with normal P&G detergent. The oldest Riva I can remember of was from 2000 circa, with a Navy pinstripe pattern, and remember getting rid of it 4-5 years later because the navy pinstripes had slightly faded in some parts but not for fraying. My current Rivas have seen well over 20 washes and still no sign of fraying or discoloration, but I have only poplins and voile, no twills or herringbones, and also are part of a 40 plus collection that include shirting from many other makers. To be honest, the twill and herringbones I have and have had in my collection from any makers and even at lower TC are the quickest to show signs of wear around the collar and cuffs folds, and the only one that has done better is a vintage Thomas Mason royal twill that was most probably from pre Albini purchase and had yellowed in the external roll fold in the merchant shop.
post #36 of 50
I also like the Triplo very much but if you are sensitive to the heat, you may find that it wears too warm for the summer.
post #37 of 50

Mr.

 

NYC water is very good on the contrary to most of the Mediterranean hard calcarean one we have  that leaves the car or garments  white dots after washing .

 

I am sure you wash them by hand with the softer detergent available and not on basement laundries with agressive detergents and not using driers as I remember watching a picture of your shower with shirts hanged on , but just remembering.

 

Riva like fabrics;

 

Perhaps the most similar is the Grandi , Luna model, 170/2 weight around 65 grams linear meter , but too transparent on non pattern designs. Summer only.

 

Some 200/2 of them and of course most of  the Romentino line.

 

Again Alumo Triplo has nothing to do with Riva is just the opposite thing.

post #38 of 50

Marcodalondra and I have discussed this in a PM, but I'll bring it up-

 

I wonder is the premature breakdown of Riva fabric is due to what detergent one uses? 

I have read that Nuncas brand "Intimo & Seta" is recommended.

 

post #39 of 50
I have an Alumo triple ply, and I do not like it. Nothing wrong with the fabric, but it just feels wrong: too slick and solid, like wearing an unstretchable plastic bag, if that makes any sense. It's like all of the things I don't like about Alumo amplified. Anyway, these things are quite personal, and short of making a shirt and wearing it, I'm not sure you can find out what you'll like.

And contrary to other posters here, I love TM Goldline 140s. If I started over again, I'd do all TM Goldline, and it's easy to iron! I also like stuff like SIC Tess cotton/linen (which feels great once it has some wear in it) so YMMV.
post #40 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

I have an Alumo triple ply, and I do not like it. Nothing wrong with the fabric, but it just feels wrong: too slick and solid, like wearing an unstretchable plastic bag, if that makes any sense. It's like all of the things I don't like about Alumo amplified. Anyway, these things are quite personal, and short of making a shirt and wearing it, I'm not sure you can find out what you'll like.

And contrary to other posters here, I love TM Goldline 140s. If I started over again, I'd do all TM Goldline, and it's easy to iron! I also like stuff like SIC Tess cotton/linen (which feels great once it has some wear in it) so YMMV.

Not sure why the hate for TM Goldline. In addition to feeling and wearing great over time, they have the best colors IMO, superior to Alumo and G&R. I posted these examples in a recent thread on end-on-end shirtings:

EndonEnds_zps807014de.jpg
post #41 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

I have an Alumo triple ply, and I do not like it. Nothing wrong with the fabric, but it just feels wrong: too slick and solid, like wearing an unstretchable plastic bag, if that makes any sense. It's like all of the things I don't like about Alumo amplified. Anyway, these things are quite personal, and short of making a shirt and wearing it, I'm not sure you can find out what you'll like.

And contrary to other posters here, I love TM Goldline 140s. If I started over again, I'd do all TM Goldline, and it's easy to iron! I also like stuff like SIC Tess cotton/linen (which feels great once it has some wear in it) so YMMV.
Ha. I thought of describing Triplo as "liquid metal". Fluid and smooth, but dense and unyielding. I don't think we disagree in the experience, just on whether we like it. Obviously, I do. I like that it is slick and smooth and also strong and sturdy.
post #42 of 50

Anyone know where in the EU you can get cut lengths of Alumo at all btw?

post #43 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Ha. I thought of describing Triplo as "liquid metal". Fluid and smooth, but dense and unyielding. I don't think we disagree in the experience, just on whether we like it. Obviously, I do. I like that it is slick and smooth and also strong and sturdy.

Definitely a preference thing. I think my tastes run relatively rustic and country. I don't mind the S-G shambray, and really like their voile-y not-chambray.
post #44 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by mactire View Post
 

Anyone know where in the EU you can get cut lengths of Alumo at all btw?


I can check down in Napoli- there are 3 shops that might- all near Via Duomo. 

 

Alumo - formerly known as Albrecht and Morgan I read, is it still a Swiss company? 

 

I have 2 shirts from Nordstrom MTM made from Alumo.  But I don't know which line they use. 

post #45 of 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post


I can check down in Napoli- there are 3 shops that might- all near Via Duomo. 

Alumo - formerly known as Albrecht and Morgan I read, is it still a Swiss company? 

I have 2 shirts from Nordstrom MTM made from Alumo.  But I don't know which line they use. 
caccioppoli did as I was shown few rolls in the past
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