or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread - Page 646

post #9676 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Don't you guys think that a single button suit is more formal than 2 or 3 buttons?
As such, choosing a single button for a SC would seem an oxymoron to me. What do you think?

I go back and forth on this. I get the dinner jacket precedent (1 button is the only correct thing for a SB dinner jacket due to formality / minimalism / etc.), but you could also use this to say that there is a material difference in formality between a suit with cuffed trousers and one sans cuffs. I regard the latter as personal preference, though. Ultimately, the more I think about it, the harder I find it to really think that the existence of a button and buttonhole that never get used down in the crotch area make a jacket less formal. I think I probably could get an odd jacket with 1 button and not be bothered by it (Huntsman has been doing this for a long time).

All that said, I'll probably start by trying this with a suit, then maybe a navy blazer, and see where it goes from there if I like the experiment. I think less clutter adds more to the sleekness of a garment with matching trousers than it would to something that is going to be worn with mid grey flannels anyway.
post #9677 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

IMO single button suits only look good if they have peak lapels.

Care to expand on this? Not necessarily disagreeing (I suspect I do but will hold my tongue until I have a 1 button suit), but I'd think an alternate lapel choice would draw more attention than eliminating a superfluous button below the waist. Maybe this goes with the idea of 1 button suits being more formal (don't want to put words in your mouth but that is the first thing I thought of as to why you might think this way).
post #9678 of 16363
Single buttons are most commonly seen on dinner jackets, so I understand the association with formality. That said, I don't think that this one element on an otherwise typical suit/jacket will stand out. Some Huntsman coats below; they generally aren't stylistically what I'd want, but the single button looks fine to my eye.



post #9679 of 16363

I don't think  a single button is inherently more formal just because it's like a dinner jacket: somehow, anything that's a little unorthodox, I think, lowers the formality just a touch.  Just as I saw someone argue, with some credibility I think, that a wholecut shoe is less formal than an oxford because of its dandyness, I think the more dramatic lines of a single button are every so slightly flamboyant - even more so with a peak lapel.

 

Which is not a bad thing.  And those Huntsman jackets look magnificent.  

post #9680 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Care to expand on this? Not necessarily disagreeing (I suspect I do but will hold my tongue until I have a 1 button suit), but I'd think an alternate lapel choice would draw more attention than eliminating a superfluous button below the waist. Maybe this goes with the idea of 1 button suits being more formal (don't want to put words in your mouth but that is the first thing I thought of as to why you might think this way).
Single button suits have this clean and minimalist look that comes across as too sleek. I feel it is more natural with the dramatic look of a peak lapel but it may just all be in my head. It should also be avoided at all cost if you have any slight appearance of a gut (Maybe that's why I really hate them).
post #9681 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Single button suits have this clean and minimalist look that comes across as too sleek. I feel it is more natural with the dramatic look of a peak lapel but it may just all be in my head. It should also be avoided at all cost if you have any slight appearance of a gut (Maybe that's why I really hate them).

confused.gif What about another button and buttonhole on the jacket is slimming?
post #9682 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

confused.gif What about another button and buttonhole on the jacket is slimming?
Visual break with the additional buttons Vs. Clean lines. Clean lines look slimming and also if you look at the huntsman cut the quarters start to open from the button, just add a little protrusion and it looks bad.

Like I said it could all just be in my head unless someone else shares my opinion.
post #9683 of 16363
Interesting, all this discussion over the presence or absence of a superfluous button or two. I suppose the one button suit is the only purely functional one, button-wise. The 3r2 has a top button that is rarely if ever seen, and a buttonhole that sometimes appears on the lapel, sometimes it is behind it and and sometimes it is just under it, with the top button being just barely visible under the roll of the lapel (I have all 3 variations, though perhaps the one where the button is unseen and the buttonhole on the lapel is visible is the only true 3r2?). The 2 button will have a single superfluous button below. So essentially, all three styles can have the same lines, lapel roll, etc., with only the visual absence or presence of buttons/holes to distinguish between them?
post #9684 of 16363
Pretty much I think.

In any case, those Huntsman jackets are fantastic.
post #9685 of 16363
Thread Starter 

Y'all's need to get up on in this. Some excellent ties to be had from a stand up guy.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/406995/closet-cleaning-tie-sale-tie-your-tie-rubinacci-passaggio-sozzi-classico-como/0_20

post #9686 of 16363
Hmmm. Maybe the striped gren, but no use for the rest.
post #9687 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Y'all's need to get up on in this. Some excellent ties to be had from a stand up guy.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/406995/closet-cleaning-tie-sale-tie-your-tie-rubinacci-passaggio-sozzi-classico-como/0_20

Very true, top man icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #9688 of 16363
Thread Starter 
You guys guess which tie I snagged?
post #9689 of 16363

I like the single-button look just fine, but not because I object to non-functional design elements.  The suit coat and sport coat, like all items of apparel, bear vestigial traces of their evolutionary ancestors (sleeve buttons, the button hole on the lapel now reduced to holding a boutonnière and that but rarely, etc.).  It’s part of the charm of the thing.

 

I agree that the one-button Huntsman jackets are quite beautiful.  You’ll recall that I posted a photo of one upthread some time ago which prompted some discussion along the lines of the current one.

 

(Mimo's point about departures from the familiar (he used the term 'orthodoxy') tending to make something look more dandyish captures something important about the relevant psychology, I think.)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #9690 of 16363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

You guys guess which tie I snagged?

 

The Shantung?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread