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Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread - Page 328

post #4906 of 9210

Greg's post got me thinking, so my "ideal" measurements, averaged from a couple of jackets, are a shoulder of 18.25" and chest (pit-to-pit) of 21". How big should I make this range when shopping online? +-1", or more like +-0.5"?

post #4907 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Greg's post got me thinking, so my "ideal" measurements, averaged from a couple of jackets, are a shoulder of 18.25" and chest (pit-to-pit) of 21". How big should I make this range when shopping online? +-1", or more like +-0.5"?

No expert here, and I also found Greg's post illuminating, but I think you need to be careful in distinguishing variances in shoulder vs chest measure. Bear in mind, the shoulder is a linear measurement, while the chest becomes doubled, so tolerances will be that much greater for chest. My own ideal (quotations implied) is similar: 18" shoulder, 42" chest. I can see how it would be possible to be +/- up to 1" on chest measure, but I'd think .5" would be max variable on shoulder, depending on construction. My best fitting jackets are about 18-18.25" shoulder, though I do have a blazer with a more padded shoulder that's closer to 18.5" and still fits pretty well. Not crazy about that shoulder, but that's another issue.
post #4908 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post


No expert here, and I also found Greg's post illuminating, but I think you need to be careful in distinguishing variances in shoulder vs chest measure. Bear in mind, the shoulder is a linear measurement, while the chest becomes doubled, so tolerances will be that much greater for chest. My own ideal (quotations implied) is similar: 18" shoulder, 42" chest. I can see how it would be possible to be +/- up to 1" on chest measure, but I'd think .5" would be max variable on shoulder, depending on construction. My best fitting jackets are about 18-18.25" shoulder, though I do have a blazer with a more padded shoulder that's closer to 18.5" and still fits pretty well. Not crazy about that shoulder, but that's another issue.

 

Thank you for the reply! .5" shoulder/1" chest variation sounds about right. I'm still a bit cautious with measurements though, especially because you don't know how the seller measures. For example, there's a beautiful suit on ebay with an 18.5" shoulder and a 20.5" chest, so the shoulder would be within .25" and the chest within .5" of my measurements. In theory it would probably fit, but it's still a risky buy. I might just stop buying online altogether from brands I'm not familiar with.  

post #4909 of 9210
Ebay's a potential double whammy as you point out: inconsistent measuring standards plus possible unfamiliarity with a particular maker. One of the great things about an outfit like NMWA is you can try out unfamiliar makes and return if it doesn't fit, at no cost to you. Of course that may not be the case across the pond.

Ebay is pretty much a crap shoot: you may get a great deal on a great piece, or you may end up with something that is essentially useless to you and a hassle to attempt to resell. Same thing with B&S here; even though you're dealing with a more knowledgable, and presumably, more ethical group of sellers, it's still hit or miss.
post #4910 of 9210
Thread Starter 

At this point, I won't buy anything but ties and squares on eBay. Measurements too risky a game, especially living overseas.

 

Random side note that won't appear in the interview but is nevertheless sort of interesting. The first incarnation of B&T went out of business in 1997 due to the IMF financial crisis. After that, the owner prayed and he says God told him to volunteer. He went to a couple of ministers and offered to make their suits at cost. Word got around, and he ended up making a ton of suits for a ton of ministers. He was then contacted by a baseball team to make suits for the entire team. That publicity was enough to get B&T back on its feet. 

post #4911 of 9210
Amen! Praise the Lord!
post #4912 of 9210

@luv2breformed

 

Good stuff, man. One thing to keep in mind: the weight routine you posted consists almost entirely of exercises for muscle groups that medially rotate your humerus. This can contribute to a host of shoulder joint problems if an imbalance is created and is one of the most common issues seen in weight lifters. Best to add more exercises for the musculature that laterally rotate the humerus and exercises that posteriorly tilt, retract, and depress the scapula. I would start by incorporating two lateral rotation exercises: one with the humerus abducted, one with it adducted; one arm dumbell protraction for the serratus; scapular wall slides, face pulls, and the Blackburn IYT series for scapular retraction and depression. And remember to stretch after lifting. 

post #4913 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

Amen! Praise the Lord!

oh lawd!
post #4914 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoCrimson View Post

@luv2breformed


Good stuff, man. One thing to keep in mind: the weight routine you posted consists almost entirely of exercises for muscle groups that medially rotate your humerus. This can contribute to a host of shoulder joint problems if an imbalance is created and is one of the most common issues seen in weight lifters. Best to add more exercises for the musculature that laterally rotate the humerus and exercises that posteriorly tilt, retract, and depress the scapula. I would start by incorporating two lateral rotation exercises: one with the humerus abducted, one with it adducted; one arm dumbell protraction for the serratus; scapular wall slides, face pulls, and the Blackburn IYT series for scapular retraction and depression. And remember to stretch after lifting. 

Thanks for the encouragement! Not gonna lie, I have no clue what you just said, but I am going to google the following 4 terms and start replacing some of my major lifts with them:

"One arm dumbbell protraction"
"Scapular wall slide"
"Face pull exercise"
"Blackburn iyt"

Thanks again!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I get it and certainly don't want to injure myself in the long term. I REALLY appreciate you looking out for me.
post #4915 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I remember when I had a 29" waist. That was when I graduated from high school. I also weighed 136 lbs.

Were you known as Nosugarbutch then?

Clever. smile.gif

I ate ridiculous amounts of food back then. I'd sometimes come home from school and eat a whole package of cookies with about a quart of milk. I grew another couple of inches in college and put on another 10-15 lbs, but I had that rabbit metabolism until about 27. I wish that I'd started running back then...
post #4916 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Clever. smile.gif

I ate ridiculous amounts of food back then. I'd sometimes come home from school and eat a whole package of cookies with about a quart of milk. I grew another couple of inches in college and put on another 10-15 lbs, but I had that rabbit metabolism until about 27. I wish that I'd started running back then...

For me it was 29, which, coincidentally, is the only age thus far that has freaked me out (I'm 92). I can remember, literally, one morning, lying in bed, looking down at my midsection and thinking "whoa, do I have abdominal cancer, a tumor, or what?" Not being a complete idiot it slowly dawned on me that father time + Ben & Jerry's was catching up with me. Life would never be the same.
post #4917 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 and start replacing some of my major lifts with them

In addition to! Not in place of!

post #4918 of 9210
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Thanks for the encouragement! Not gonna lie, I have no clue what you just said, but I am going to google the following 4 terms and start replacing some of my major lifts with them:

"One arm dumbbell protraction"
"Scapular wall slide"
"Face pull exercise"
"Blackburn iyt"

Thanks again!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I get it and certainly don't want to injure myself in the long term. I REALLY appreciate you looking out for me.

It sounds a bit complicated, but he is right. Lifting can definitely mess up your posture if you create muscle imbalances. I'm currently trying to correct forward shoulders from a too strong chest compared to my back. I'd recommend making sure you stretch your cheat at least once a day, and work out your upper back as much as your chest.
post #4919 of 9210

Hi everyone on this thread.  Somebody mentioned this is a place to get good advice and the title appears to suggest the same.  Apologies for the non-sequitor, but if anyone has thoughts about a suit I recently bought, I'm all ears.

 

I posted on the Tailor's thread, and got a quite helpful reply about the vent flapping.  There wasn't other nit-picking about the fit, so perhaps it isn't too egregious at least. 

 

I guess I was wondering more about style and where this might fall on the 'classic' vs. 'fashionable' scale.  It's a linen/wool/silk suit I got off the rack from SuitSupply mostly because I thought it looked fairly good on me.  But I'm not really able to tell if it is overly trendy in things like lapels, jacket length, button stance, etc.  It is slim, but I am a pretty skinny guy so I'm okay with that.

 

My goal was to get something somewhat informal that I could use for social occasions (summer weddings) and as a graduate student (conferences, teaching, as a separate jacket to look casually sharp around the department).  Does it read this way? Are there things that I should keep in mind for future purchases? I was thinking of saving up to get a navy blazer, despite how charming the too-small-slash-I-probably-wore-this-in-middle-school-look is of the one I have now.

 

Oh and any thoughts on what style of brown shoes would work with this and also be versatile for jeans/corduroys/etc.?  Would a tan monk strap be reasonable?

 

I've looked at a book and posts on here, but in terms of direct personal experience I'm really very new (erm... shoes, right) and welcome input.

 

Many thanks,

 

Sleeppopatamus

 

Here are some other photos (Click to show)

 

 

 

post #4920 of 9210
Thread Starter 
What model is that? The buttoning point is fabulously low.

Definitely a good balance between modern and classic. The casaul fabric was a good choice for your lifestyle. I'm not sure how well it would work as an odd jacket, given its color and pockets.

I'd go darker with the shoes; much easier to work with and more versatile. I think light shoes demand light colored ties. Dark shoes, you can wear dark and light ties. Monk straps are a good choice. So would something sleek and brogued.

Edit: at least put on socks next time.
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