or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread - Page 123

post #1831 of 9158
I'm definitely not a snob with that stuff but I've tried some less expensive ones and the waistband would give out or something else would kind of suck about it.

If I found a $5.99 brand that felt the same way I'd obviously start buying that one instead.
post #1832 of 9158
I've had mine Target Hanes undies for almost 2 years and...they're fine for me.
post #1833 of 9158

OK LTBR, here are some thoughts on shoes.  What I've set out to do, is a few things:

 

- See alternatives to AE.  Not because AE is bad, but because you know the maker well, and knowing more options is good.

 

- Different shapes: none of these look like AE shoes, because variety is the spice of life.  And everyone in America owns a pair of walnut Strands.  Allegedly.

 

- Try some different sources as much as different brands; there is a world out there.

 

- Have an illustrative idea of what might be the most useful types of shoes, as much as specific models

 

The premise I've started with is that you have $1500 and are going on a shoe orgy.  You want five pairs.  I have made some assumptions:

 

- You will wear anything

 

- You are occasionally formal, or more likely, semi formal, but mostly in a casual environment in cords or chinos

 

- You aspire to be an academic and will be looking towards a laid back but more mature and classic wardrobe

 

So here are some shoes, with explanations:

 

The black cap toe.  In this case, by Loake from our affiliate friends Pediwear.  They do the best deals on this modest maker.  The last shape is nice without being showy.  The leather is calf, not polished binder.  And with shipping, they'll set you back about $250.  It's not the most celebrated maker on SF, but these are English-made goodyear welted shoes, and I've had some with worse leather than this for over ten years.  Every man needs a black cap toe - good with all your suits, and your go-to for evening lounge suit, black tie and funerals.  Must have.

 

 

 

The nearly formal brown.   More like dark tan really, a punched cap toe with medallion, or more or less a "half brogue".  From Meermin, another affiliate.  They can be slow sometimes, but they're cheap.  You're done with shipping for about $200.  It's an oxford, in a dark colour, and perfectly appropriate for your suits in the day time.  When you get your more academic grown up tweed jackets and hairy suits, these will be really sharp.  But being this colour, they're perfectly at home with your chinos too.  These are your black oxfords for when you don't need the black oxfords.  Possibly your most versatile and favourite-shoe-to-be.  

 

The country casual.  Mid tan, a chunky derby, grain leather, definitely not with a suit.  But with chinos or flannels and a sports jacket, these are perfect for your morning lecture or your walk in the park alike.  These are from Howard Yount.  I've not tried their shoes, but Claghorn's a fan of his rather similar boots.  These are on offer at $299 including US shipping, in your size.  You need a range of brown shoes, and these look like a good option.  

 

 

 

 

The easy shoe.  Well, this is Styleforum so rather than a loafer or a suede "buck", it's an i-Gent staple double monk.  Also, I own a pair of these - by accidentally winning an auction.  And the colour is fabulous, they're super comfortable, and the hidden elastic on the rear buckle make them sneaky slip-ons that don't look like it.  I wear these with odd jackets and even with a suit.  Especially on days I know I'm going to take my shoes off (may or may not be an issue!).  But the point of these, whether you choose monks, loafers, or a big floppy chukka boot, is that they are both easy, and another daily wear option for your semi-casual workplace.  They are made in Spain, like Meermin, so good value: $250 with US shipping included.  Yay.

 

 

The wild card.  You might have noticed that you've only spent $1000.  These are the last $500, but it doesn't matter.  The point's already made, I think.  With a decent pair of brown brogues and a casual summer shoe already in your hands, you have what you need with everything above.  So this is a treat.  You could email shoebank@allenedmonds.com and ask for seconds in a 10D.  You might get five pairs for that remaining $500 if you want, or two shell cordovan seconds.  You can scan Pediwear's site more thoroughly and pick up a sale item from Crockett & Jones or Tricker's.  Fabulous.  Try a Meermin made-to-order, or something from Carmina, or Vass (just) or get those others that caught your eye at HY or wherever.  Kent Wang have some impressive stuff I've just seen by DC Lewis - again, SF affiliates so plenty of info available.  

 

But my choice, on a whim, was this.  Burgundy is a non-brown option that goes a lot of places brown goes.  You didn't have a boot, so here is one.  It's fabulously made for the money and will make you crave high quality French calf, channeled soles, a London waist and fancy packaging.  And it was designed by a guy who's put his heart and soul into shoes and has just reached the point where he's made it to and through the first year of production.  If you don't already know him, he's quite inspirational I think.  He's also an inactive SF member - a bit too busy walking the walk these days.  Anyway, I tried these on last month.  They're exceptional.  Whether they're for you is not my decision, but they are an illustration of the possible.

 

 

The point of this is not that you go and get all these shoes.  It's that you go an explore all these places and more, and find a similarly varied but useful collection that fits your budget.  And do email the AE Shoe Bank anyway.  No harm in one or two bargains from there now and then.  Just remember what else is out there.  Enjoy, and let us know how you get on. :)

post #1834 of 9158
^ I agree with much of what Mimo said above, especially the part about trying different brands (though shoe shopping online with unfamiliar brands can be a PITA) and exploring options. For someone who does not have to wear suits and only does so occasionally, however, I'd replace the pair of brown oxfords with another pair of derbys or possibly a pair of monks or loafers (whichever he did not end up getting). So 1 pair of black oxfords, 1 pair of monks (single or double) in some sort of brown, 1 pair of loafers in brown or burgundy, 1 pair of derbys (really like the ones Mimo linked to) in some sort of brown and then either a pair of boots or another pair of derbys. Only pair of black shoes needed for now is the oxfords. I'm not a fan of oxfords without a tie, so I guess I don't think a pair of brown semi-brogue oxfords are actually that useful for him.
post #1835 of 9158
Nice job Mimo. Sort of like writing the answer key to your own test! wink.gif
post #1836 of 9158

There was some delay publishing a post I put up earlier. In case any of yall missed it, here's the link: http://www.styleforum.net/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/1820_20#post_6918631

post #1837 of 9158
Heavens, we wouldn't want a delay!
post #1838 of 9158

Sure, I'm a little anxious :-) But more to the point, I'm uncertain whether the publishing delay may have caused the post not to register for thread subscribers. Be prepared, safe and sorry, etc.

post #1839 of 9158
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
quote name="Sundance" url="/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/1815#post_6918631"]CBD Tie Primer



Hello everybody!

First of all, let me say that lurking this thread has been thoroughly enjoyable. Without distracting too much from the proceedings, I’d appreciate it greatly if yall could help orient me a little on CBD ties. I don’t want to interrupt too much or redirect the conversation so even short and sweet advice is appreciated. All thoughts welcome, and thank you in advance!

--Sundance




Here’s the situation: while I don’t currently own a single stitch of CBD, in a few months I’m moving into a conservative field and need to enter with at least a starter wardrobe—and though I basically understand the ‘standards’ for suits and shoes I’m a little lost on ties. With very little disposable income on hand, I need to start slowly and carefully, prioritizing unassuming pieces for maximum replay value. This thread has provided lots of great advice on particulars, but I haven’t really been able to figure out the underlying theory of the most basic options. I reckon I just haven’t had the long-term daily exposure to CBD required to internalize the rules, so I need a cheat sheet to get me started. Can yall help me out?






Question 1: RULES


Here’s the best I can figure:

CBD colors:

1. Navy

2. Burgundy

…?



 



CBD styles:

1. Solid (/grenadine)

2. Repp stripe

3. Pindot

4. Neat

…?









Question 2: COLLECTION


I’ve seen some folks on here say they couldn’t possibly get by with fewer than 50 ties, but that kind of “minimum” number is unattainable to me at this point in time. So what’s actually the barest acceptable collection for daily wear? I don’t really care about special-occasion ties (“you need to have a shepherd’s check for a wedding!”) or anything seasonal (“wool for winter!”), just those maximally functional for weekday business year-round. Maybe sixteen, for a three-week rotation? I’ll assume that number for the sake of argument but tell me if I need to adjust my parameters.

So, buying no more than one batch of four ties each quarter, how would you build out a sixteen-count set of CBD ties over the course of a year? Batch #1 is going to see a lot of repetition. Specific suggestions welcome, but please keep in mind that no matter how lovely I find some of the ties that showed up earlier in the thread (Cappelli, Drakes), I can’t really spend more than $80 apiece—so Hober’s about my limit. For grounding the palette assume a navy suit, black shoes, solid blue or white shirt—again I can’t do more than basics. My initial, unfinished list below, with lots of navy (blame my limited visual imagination and determination to hew as conservative as possible). I welcome any suggestions yall may have.



1. Navy grenadine

2. Burgundy grenadine

3. Black grenadine

4. Navy/white repp



*

5. Navy/white pindot

6. Burgundy neat

7. Navy/green repp

8. Dark brown grenadine



*

9. Navy neat

10. ?

11. ?

12. ?



*

13. ?

14. ?

15. ?

16. ?



[/quote]

Okay, so basically you want a wardrobe with 16 ties that are CBD. With a tie wardrobe of that size, IMO you want to have around 8 solids and 8 ties with subtle patterns.

Basic colors include black, navy, light blue, grey / silver, burgundy, and forest green. You should have a solid tie in each of these colors. That is 6 right there. Grey also gives you a bit of range so you could have a lighter grey grenadine and perhaps a darker grey in something like a diamond weave or oxford. Mix up the weaves (grenadine is great but there are other options such as diamond weaves and oxford weaves that work nicely). You should be able to get to 8 solids with these sorts of colors and a mix of weaves without a problem.

As for patterns, I'd say two pindots (midnight blue and burgundy), two striped ties (exact configuration up to you) and 4 neats / Macclesfields / etc. (navy, dark red / burgundy, dark green, brown). If you are truly only wearing navy suits, I would make sure you only have one navy solid and maybe 1-2 navy / midnight ties with patterns. Navy on navy can work just fine but don't overdo it. You can find attractive ties with conservative patterns on other color grounds.
post #1840 of 9158

@mimo who's the maker on those calf/suede boots? Didn't see one listed, but they look great!

post #1841 of 9158
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

@mimo
who's the maker on those calf/suede boots? Didn't see one listed, but they look great!

I was going to ask that same thing.
post #1842 of 9158
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

OK LTBR, here are some thoughts on shoes.  What I've set out to do, is a few things:

 

- See alternatives to AE.  Not because AE is bad, but because you know the maker well, and knowing more options is good.

 

- Different shapes: none of these look like AE shoes, because variety is the spice of life.  And everyone in America owns a pair of walnut Strands.  Allegedly.

 

- Try some different sources as much as different brands; there is a world out there.

 

- Have an illustrative idea of what might be the most useful types of shoes, as much as specific models

 

The premise I've started with is that you have $1500 and are going on a shoe orgy.  You want five pairs.  I have made some assumptions:

 

- You will wear anything

 

- You are occasionally formal, or more likely, semi formal, but mostly in a casual environment in cords or chinos

 

- You aspire to be an academic and will be looking towards a laid back but more mature and classic wardrobe

 

So here are some shoes, with explanations:

 

The black cap toe.  In this case, by Loake from our affiliate friends Pediwear.  They do the best deals on this modest maker.  The last shape is nice without being showy.  The leather is calf, not polished binder.  And with shipping, they'll set you back about $250.  It's not the most celebrated maker on SF, but these are English-made goodyear welted shoes, and I've had some with worse leather than this for over ten years.  Every man needs a black cap toe - good with all your suits, and your go-to for evening lounge suit, black tie and funerals.  Must have.

 

 

 

 

The point of this is not that you go and get all these shoes.  It's that you go an explore all these places and more, and find a similarly varied but useful collection that fits your budget.  And do email the AE Shoe Bank anyway.  No harm in one or two bargains from there now and then.  Just remember what else is out there.  Enjoy, and let us know how you get on. :)

 

I've got those boots in black with navy suede. They're awesome, very good value for money. They look great, feel great, and are very well constructed. You can wear them more casually or more formally, and they add a fun touch to any outfit.

Despite all this, I wouldn't recommend them for just a 5 shoe rotation. Get some boots in dark to medium brown, maybe Meermin's suede or country calf boots. They're much more useful, and you'll wear them much more often. Once you've got enough 'staple' shoes you can start looking at fun ones like these.

 

For the guys asking, they're J.Fitzpatrick, from the shoe snob. I've got 2 pairs of shoes from his brand, and have tried on many others, and they're by far my favourite shoes. His burgundy loafers might quite possibly be my favourite loafers ever. http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/j-fitzpatrick-shoe-range#.UgH1JT9y1bo

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

post #1843 of 9158
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundance View Post

 
CBD Tie Primer
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Hello everybody!

First of all, let me say that lurking this thread has been thoroughly enjoyable. Without distracting too much from the proceedings, I’d appreciate it greatly if yall could help orient me a little on CBD ties. I don’t want to interrupt too much or redirect the conversation so even short and sweet advice is appreciated. All thoughts welcome, and thank you in advance!

--Sundance




Here’s the situation: while I don’t currently own a single stitch of CBD, in a few months I’m moving into a conservative field and need to enter with at least a starter wardrobe—and though I basically understand the ‘standards’ for suits and shoes I’m a little lost on ties. With very little disposable income on hand, I need to start slowly and carefully, prioritizing unassuming pieces for maximum replay value. This thread has provided lots of great advice on particulars, but I haven’t really been able to figure out the underlying theory of the most basic options. I reckon I just haven’t had the long-term daily exposure to CBD required to internalize the rules, so I need a cheat sheet to get me started. Can yall help me out?






Question 1: RULES


Here’s the best I can figure:

CBD colors:

1. Navy

2. Burgundy
3. Green (provided it's dark)



4. Brown



 



CBD styles:

1. Solid (/grenadine)

2. Repp stripe

3. Pindot

4. Neat
That's probably about it.









Question 2: COLLECTION Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I’ve seen some folks on here say they couldn’t possibly get by with fewer than 50 ties, but that kind of “minimum” number is unattainable to me at this point in time. So what’s actually the barest acceptable collection for daily wear? I don’t really care about special-occasion ties (“you need to have a shepherd’s check for a wedding!”) or anything seasonal (“wool for winter!”), just those maximally functional for weekday business year-round. Maybe sixteen, for a three-week rotation? I’ll assume that number for the sake of argument but tell me if I need to adjust my parameters.

So, buying no more than one batch of four ties each quarter, how would you build out a sixteen-count set of CBD ties over the course of a year? Batch #1 is going to see a lot of repetition. Specific suggestions welcome, but please keep in mind that no matter how lovely I find some of the ties that showed up earlier in the thread ([URL=http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_30">

1. Navy grenadine

2. Burgundy grenadine

3. Black grenadine

4. Navy/white repp

*

5. Navy/white pindot

6. Burgundy neat

7. Navy/green repp

8. Dark brown grenadine



*

9. Navy neat
10. Light blue neat/repp (works well for white shirt/blue or gray suit)

11. Navy solid wool (assuming you wear flannel)

12. Burgundy solid wool (assuming you wear flannel)



*

13. Mid to dark green neat

14. Burgundy pindot

15. Gray (not silver!) grenadine

16. Gray PoW (dense pattern, so that it resolves to gray)


If you were to get 16 Hobers...well...that would be a more than acceptable tie wardrobe. Still, I'd take a look at a few other reasonably priced brands with an excellent quality to price ratio (Howard Yount might no longer be a great place for staples, but Henry Carter, Mountain & Sackett, Exquisite Trimmings, and Kent Wang all have good choices in your price range)



Speaking of, Rudals, you'd look excellent in some Kent Wang oxfords. The last suits you.




Edited by Claghorn - 2/7/14 at 8:17pm
post #1844 of 9158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

If you were to get 16 Hobers...well...that's would be a more than acceptable tie wardrobe. Still, I'd take a look at a few other reasonably priced brands with an excellent quality to price ratio (Howard Yount might no longer be a great place for staples, but Henry Carter, Mountain & Sackett, Exquisite Trimmings, and Kent Wang all have good choices in your price range)

 

 

-------------

 

Speaking of, Rudals, you'd look excellent in some Kent Wang oxfords. The last suits you.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Those look excellent! All this talking about different black oxfords is great. They might be the most boring shoe, but they're definitely the most important one. Besides, they can be beautiful:

post #1845 of 9158

Welp some goodies came in today.  Suit and Overcoat.  I think the suit may be a hair too short but I'm going to wear it and love it no matter what.  The coat fit is 99% perfect, sleeves need to come down an inch if I can possibly but other than that what does the council say?  I think my shirt is too long and may be skewing the sleeve length of the jacket and suit.  Sorry to have the cord for the camera in the shots.

 

 

 

With Top Coat

 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread