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Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread - Page 72

post #1066 of 11129

Exactly.  Or in buying perfectly decent cheaper brands.  I've seen all sorts of stuff from Suit Supply here for a few hundred bucks that looks good.  They also have several different standard fits that you can, as far as I can tell, order reliably in different cloths with no worries once you find one that works for you.  AND they have a proper MTM service in some of their branches where they'll measure you properly, and make any alterations you need after, for under a grand even with the best cloth.  That's not quite bespoke, but it's close and it will give you three good-looking suits for the price of that Isaia shonker.  Even in a cloth with a designer name on it, if you must.

 

Go on, Noodles, be brave.  I think I might even try that myself next time I'm in London - despite my super cheap local tailor (or maybe because...)

post #1067 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

At this point we need just to create an official "should I buy this" thread

Pretty sure this is it.

 

Once my funds re-coup I'll be checking back in.  I got called Huggy Bear today by an older gent in my office because I bought a dress hat last week.  I had to look up Huggy Bear though.  

 

post #1068 of 11129
I'm about to place an order for a MTO "Budapester" model wingtip derby from Vass. It will have a dainite sole for durability. (For those of you keeping score on retail price, this will be a full-retail purchase biggrin.gif)

I intend to wear this shoe with casual sportcoats and slacks. I already own a brown wingtip in cordovan. (RL Marlow)

The two parameters I'm having trouble deciding on are:

1). Last ("F" last vs. the "P2"/"New Peter" last)
-F last is sleeker
-P2 is rounder

2). Material (dark brown boxcalf vs. dark brown pebble grain).

See circled in red

208wqwp.jpg




At the moment I am leaning towards a P2 shoe with brown pebble grain. The brown pebble / dainite sole has been called "bombproof" in the Vass thread. I think it would make a good all-weather shoe. (Rain or shine, sleet or snow). I'm leaning towards the P2 because it's not as sleek/formal as the F last.

What do you all think?


Here's what a P2 shoe looks like brown cordovan. (I would be getting the same color shoe in calf)

9utbow.jpg


Here's an F last oxford wingtip in a lighter brown calf ("antique cognac), and a rough estimation of what a shoe in full brown pebble would look like (right):

7167n4.jpg
post #1069 of 11129

I like the pebble/smooth mix pic that you posted.  Thats a pretty fancy shoe to do pebble grain to.  I always thought pebble looked better on boots personally.  

post #1070 of 11129
Thread Starter 

Too much bro. Too much.

 

But go cordo

post #1071 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Exactly.  Or in buying perfectly decent cheaper brands.  I've seen all sorts of stuff from Suit Supply here for a few hundred bucks that looks good.  They also have several different standard fits that you can, as far as I can tell, order reliably in different cloths with no worries once you find one that works for you.  AND they have a proper MTM service in some of their branches where they'll measure you properly, and make any alterations you need after, for under a grand even with the best cloth.  That's not quite bespoke, but it's close and it will give you three good-looking suits for the price of that Isaia shonker.  Even in a cloth with a designer name on it, if you must.

 

Go on, Noodles, be brave.  I think I might even try that myself next time I'm in London - despite my super cheap local tailor (or maybe because...)


I've tried SS MTM. You can see a pic of my jacket in the tailor's thread. Aside from a high stance/shorter than I would like, it came out pretty cleanly the second time round. I'd try them again, but the nicer fabrics are more expensive and I can't afford it right now.

 

Jacket was on a special when I was in Amsterdam. I think if you have a reasonably typical body then it can work pretty well. The only issue I had with them is that they like higher button stances and shorter jackets, but you can work with them. There are basic cloths from well known Italian mills for 400-500 dollars (full canvas, horn buttons, working sleeve cuffs etc). Sometimes they have sales which is when I luckily found them (and cheaper in Europe to, plus -VAT). For gray/brown/navy suiting, I think you'd do pretty well.

 

I agree with Mimo. You have a SS in DC. Go there next time you are in Georgetown. Try on all their fits, talk to the MTM guy. From your build, I think you'd actually be easy to fit, if they can take care of your upper arm. I'm 39R, 6 feet, 165.

 

Clarinet Player has several things from SS too.

post #1072 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

At the moment I am leaning towards a P2 shoe with brown pebble grain. 

 

Keep leaning until you fall in that direction.  You have a more dressy casual wingtip as you said.  This one should really release your inner Magyar.

post #1073 of 11129

I am not Clag and I don't know shoes but I say go with cordovans. I'd get them...only if...sigh

post #1074 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Keep leaning until you fall in that direction.  You have a more dressy casual wingtip as you said.  This one should really release your inner Magyar.

Yeah I think full brown pebble is a good call. (Not half pebble/calf like in the pic)

The last is a tough call. F vs. P2, decisions, decisions
post #1075 of 11129

I've always had a bad impression on SS. I will visit that store in Georgetown. I used to pass by it everyday as they were building that store. 

post #1076 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Rudals, NMWA has free shipping and free returns. They encourage you to buy things and try them on in the comfort of your home and send them back if they do not fit. Its probably the best way to buy clothing that I know of.

 

The best way to buy clothing is to walk into the shop with lots of things you like, try them on and see which fit.  You could do that whole process by mail order, but the choices are fewer and the process much longer.  Of course you love your NMWA suits and they are lovely.  But quit pushing Noodles into mail order; I really don't think it's helping him.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

Stitchie, 

 

Since you probably have worn a Zegna before, how are NMWA suits compared to them. That's really the only reference that I have. And if I wear a 38R, what the heck size do I pick?

These suits considered "fitted" or "trimmed" or are they kind of relaxed?

 

Noodles, focus.  Go to some shops.  Leave the websites for later, or wait until you can go hang out for an afternoon at NMWA and try a load of things together.

post #1077 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Too much bro. Too much.

But go cordo

I already have cordo!!!! It's between boxcalf and pebble
post #1078 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

Stitchie, Since you probably have worn a Zegna before, how are NMWA suits compared to them. That's really the only reference that I have. And if I wear a 38R, what the heck size do I pick?
These suits considered "fitted" or "trimmed" or are they kind of relaxed?

wel, zegna has a lot of cuts, some of which are great for me, others not. the formosas that NMWA carries are a little slimmer than most comparable zegnas. also, they have wider lapels and more open quarters. just order your normal size and one size up and one of the two should be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I've always had a bad impression on SS. I will visit that store in Georgetown. I used to pass by it everyday as they were building that store. 

good stuff, but not top tier level. super slim fits.
post #1079 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post


Yeah I think full brown pebble is a good call. (Not half pebble/calf like in the pic)

The last is a tough call. F vs. P2, decisions, decisions

 

F is gorgeous, but this is a budapester in pebble grain from Vass.  I think a more classic Hungarian last is the way to go - camp it up a bit.  On an austerity brogue in museum calf, F would be beautiful.  But this is a chunky shoe in country leather, so the P2 (which is already watered-down a touch in that it has a more extended toe than the really traditional ones) is the man for the job I think: go Hungarian, go seriously Hungarian I say. :)

post #1080 of 11129
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

I've always had a bad impression on SS. I will visit that store in Georgetown. I used to pass by it everyday as they were building that store. 

I have 3 suits from SS, all three out the door tailored $1600.  I like them quite a bit.  I think they have a certain stigma but if you can get past that they have nice suits imo.  

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