- It doesn't have to be cut-price - cut price can be good, but it can also just be a cheaper maker.
- This (as I understand it) is an exercise in locating value and good taste in the same suit. There will be NO BUYING. Ordering stuff online would be a moronic step at this stage. You have problems fitting stuff when you try it on. Buying it unseen will see you expelled from Styleforum forever. Stitchy VISITED NMWA. He also already knew how various makers work for him fit-wise and had some useful comparison information. You need to go and try on stuff in person, whoever makes it and wherever it comes from. A fused jacket from Wal-Mart that fits you will look better than a fully-canvassed hand-stitched wonder from Kiton with a baggy chest and pinched middle. Not that I'm suggesting you buy crap. Just don't buy expensive stuff (even NMWA) that will probably look like crap if you haven't tried it.
Oh, and a third thing: if you can get a clear idea of what you want in terms of cloth, and if you can be disciplined enough to stick to something conservative enough to be low-risk, then I would say there's no harm at all in diving into bespoke. A medium grey, medium weight, medium quality (reasonably mid-range Super 120s) chalk stripe with a medium sized notch lapel, two buttons, four on the sleeve, single or no pleat trousers with or without modest cuffs, and belt loops for now as you don't wear three pieces with braces (yet!)...that's low risk. And unless the tailor is a charlatan, it will look twice as awesome as anything else you have.
The thing is, you are not the same shape as a generic white man clothes buyer's dummy. Which is a bummer. Some people are, and loads of off the rail stuff fits them brilliantly, and they are lucky. You are not. And not just because you're a hollow-chested, fat-headed, narrow-shouldered Asian freak. I am not an "average shape" white man either. Neither is Claghorn. I have a massive head (and with it an oversized neck) in proportion to my shoulders. Actually, I suppose I'm a bit like an oversized slightly fat Asian in those proportions. Which is ironic as I'm black on the inside.
But the point is that stuff off the rail might never, or very rarely, fit you well. Incidentally, that also applies to most MTM, that "guesses" the cut based on a few measurements and the average shapes associated with them. Altering the neck and shoulders on a suit jacket is a tricky business. If you've got the dough, try a tailor. And if you're a show-off, "my tailor" sounds way better than any label.