Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[Pliny]

+1 on SB's comments Noodles. Shoulders look rite, but the chest is too small on all of those.

 

[jungleroller]

Never considered lapel bowing. Jesus I need a checklist...

 

[jrd617]

Noodles, you and JR need to start thinking in terms of measurements, NOT in terms of tagged size. I think I've briefed you on this before! Why are you regressing your knowledge all of a sudden?

-Shoulders need to go to your natural shoulder end, or a little bit past it if that's your preference (huge head, etc)

-Chest p2p doubled should a few inches bigger than your actual chest circumference. For me and my posture, it's 2 inches. Noodles, whatever that Zegna mila I sold you was -- measure it, that's your gold standard

-Waist shouldn't buckle on the jacket when you first put it on. It can actually be a little bit big, just have a tailor take it in

-Length should hit around your knuckles when you're handing are at a natural position​

Those are the basics of fit.

Oh, and also don't get anything with too high/low of a button stance. A lot of the Suit Supplys have way high button stances

 

[jrd617]



Never considered lapel bowing.

Chest bowing = too tight or too loose a chest

http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2013...vasses-chest-pieces-and-other-suit-mysteries/

 

[jrd617]

this

http://putthison.com/post/19955659382/how-a-suit-jacket-or-sport-coat-should-fit-a

 

[jrd617]

and this

http://web.archive.org/web/20130618...-What-the-heck-is-balance&p=426152#post426152

 

[Rudals]

I feel like I just got style spanked by JRD.

Do the shoulder curve and not divot?
Is there bowing of lapels?
Is the length right and cover your seat?
Is the top button by the navel?
Are the lapels wide enough?
Is there enough room when buttoned up?

 

[jrd617]

 

[luv2breformed]



I feel like I just got style spanked by JRD.

Do the shoulder curve and not divot?
Is there bowing of lapels?
Is the length right and cover your seat?
Is the top button by the navel?
Are the lapels wide enough?
Is there enough room when buttoned up?

It seems difficult and restricting but man is a well fitting jacket a wonder to behold. Combos are fun too, but this is the really good stuff.

 

[Claghorn]

Knowing that Rudals is a 40-42, perhaps he was taller than I remember.

 

[DeSense]

Is it possible to link to a pic directly on your mobile or computer hd here? Like for the avatar?

 

[Rudals]

I have a confession to make.

I am...struggling with obesity. I am 10 FREAKING pounds over my normal weight of 170lbs. All my suits in the closet are 38R and they DID fit me at one point. I have told my wife to stop feeding me but bless her heart she won't stop. I habe also gained some upper body muscles in the chest, shoulders, and arms. This is causing more fit issues.

Please make a non-tax deductible donation to the NOODLES FOUNDATION to help Noodles have a chance against obesity.

 

[Rudals]



Is it possible to link to a pic directly on your mobile or computer hd here? Like for the avatar?

I just go into desktop mode.

 

[Claghorn]

Dudals, you've been "battling" weight ever since you've arrived on SF. I don't think I've ever seen a jacket fit from you that wouldn't have benefited from being let out a bit or sizing up (and then being let in). It isn't even necessarily about your weight. It's also the size of your ribcage. You aren't a 42...that may just be the marital feeding....but you would have long sense been better served with a 40 and getting a tailor to nip the waist.

 

[Rudals]

Yes. 40R.
And my fight against obesity has been a long fight. I am very displeased with my lack of progress.