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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 618

post #9256 of 37392
:)
Edited by The Noodles - 7/28/14 at 9:04am
post #9257 of 37392
V - agree to what everyone else said. London L and you should take new pics with your legs more together.

MF - awesome

cox - buy the suit

noodles - cant really judge collar from a selfie like that. your extended and raised picture arms are scrunching everything up.
post #9258 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Ok, that tweed I posted earlier is on the Weller cut by Epaulet. Thought I would pick up a harris tweed since the price is very reasonable.,The only question for me now is the sizing.

I like the fit, aside from the issues noted earlier (lapel, more constructed shoulder). The main issue is a very slight bowing of the right lapel. It might be just my stance (the left lapel is straight), and I didn't notice it when in the store. But now that I look at it, it bugs me. A 40 felt too big so the only question is whether to size up to a 39 from a 38, which means 0.5 inches in the chest and 0.25 inches in the shoulder. No divots in the 40 so I don't expect this difference to be a problem and might even out the chest.

Or I could not mess with it since it otherwise fits fine (no one seemed to be bothered by it, and I know how picky this crowd is). The chest did not feel tight and gives a somewhat sculpted appearance in the pic.

If people here aren't bothered by it, I'll leave it be. So, one more time: thoughts on that?




How would you describe your normal stance and how are your shuolders? Something is throwing the jacket off (or rather the fit of the jacket doesn't jive with your body), I think its your left shoulder or rather that you shoulders are uneven. Besides the lapel bowing the left side of the front of the jacket is lower than the right side.
post #9259 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by V1KTA222 View Post

Thanks for the comments thus far. I don't usually stand like that, I don't think. I am a sloucher though, and I think my wide stance in those pics comes from me trying to stand up straight after walking back from setting up my self timer. I'll try to take some more shots.

My thoughts about getting two suits are that I go to professional conferences 2 times a year, and they last about 3 days. I was hoping to have more than one outfit to wear on those consecutive days.

If I were to go to a higher price point, is there anything in the 7-800 range, or does it jump to 1k for a nice quality suit?

Also, lol at Larry Craig!

I think the navy blue London is sufficient. I don't think you need a second suit. My impression is that at these medical conferences the guys wearing suits are either presenting, chairing a session or trying to sell you something.
post #9260 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by V1KTA222 View Post

Thanks for the comments thus far. I don't usually stand like that, I don't think. I am a sloucher though, and I think my wide stance in those pics comes from me trying to stand up straight after walking back from setting up my self timer. I'll try to take some more shots.

My thoughts about getting two suits are that I go to professional conferences 2 times a year, and they last about 3 days. I was hoping to have more than one outfit to wear on those consecutive days.

If I were to go to a higher price point, is there anything in the 7-800 range, or does it jump to 1k for a nice quality suit?

Also, lol at Larry Craig!

Now I see why you want the two suits. Basically you wear a suit 3 days in a row a couple times a year and maybe one or two other times. Makes sense. In that case, go for 2 SuitSupply suits. The quality is good enough that you'll be happy to wear them until you can comfortably replace them with bespoke.
post #9261 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post


How would you describe your normal stance and how are your shuolders? Something is throwing the jacket off (or rather the fit of the jacket doesn't jive with your body), I think its your left shoulder or rather that you shoulders are uneven. Besides the lapel bowing the left side of the front of the jacket is lower than the right side.


Hi Ed:

 

I decided not to make too many judgments in the end based on one picture, as you would agree I suspect.

 

I had the jacket on, stood in front of the mirror, raised my arms, checked to see if it stayed on the collar, moved etc. It didn't feel tight in chest and I did not notice the unevenness at the hem.

 

Here's a pic of another, same pattern (Epaulet's Weller), lighter weight fabric. You'll notice the jacket seems completely different in many ways, though it is the same cut. Here, the lapels and hem are straight. I think the tweed shot looks more flattering at the chest (swelled a bit more) and oddly, the waist looks aggressively nipped in the tweed! Of course, each jacket will be cut slightly different, but I doubt that the pattern would be so off across jackets (both 38Rs).

 

I've stuck with the size because the shoulders are spot on. The chest feels fine.

 

There's a lesson that many of us know and I have to remind myself: jackets are lived in and snapshots can both distort and enhance.

 

post #9262 of 37392

TweedyProf, that jacket is really nice. The colour and texture are unusual and interesting, and I imagine quite versatile.

 

If you do buy it, you'll need to get the sleeves shortened, left side a little more than right.

post #9263 of 37392

Related:

 

I was inspired by this:

 

 

To do a variation for F/W in a heavier 13.5 oz weight with this:

 

 

 

The thought being that this will come off in the brown range, go well with mid  light gray and tan flannels. Pair with blue shirt and solid navy or gray ties, and with one of the wool ties I posted a few pages back, done. Alas, the lapels will not be like Greg's as much else, but his is a bespoke Formosa, I think.

post #9264 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

TweedyProf, that jacket is really nice. The colour and texture are unusual and interesting, and I imagine quite versatile.

 

If you do buy it, you'll need to get the sleeves shortened, left side a little more than right.


Cox, you mean the purple, yes? It's $900 unfortunately!

post #9265 of 37392

$900? A mere bagatelle.

 

One thing I've just noticed though, is that the left quarter seems to hang lower than the right. Which is kind of weird.

 

Maybe go back to the shop with a tape measure and really check the damn thing out carefully. I don't have a tailor's eye, but I note that a tailor (or at least, an industry guy, not sure if Edmorel is a tailor but he seems to know an awful lot) has come on and commented about the jacket being a bit out of kilter. I think that's the one and only issue here. Is the jacket really out of kilter, or was that some funny lens distortion effect or your colostomy bag or some other extrinsic factor?

 

If you can satisfy yourself that the jacket is well made and sits straight on your body, buy it. My two cents' worth.

post #9266 of 37392

I'm sorely tempted by that Raffaele Caruso/Sartoria Parma suit, but I just realised that I actually do have a charcoal grey suit, albeit with a subtle windowpane:

 

 

I really don't think I could do better than the above. Maybe I should pass. Save my pennies for B&Tailor.

post #9267 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

$900? A mere bagatelle.

 

One thing I've just noticed though, is that the left quarter seems to hang lower than the right. Which is kind of weird.

 

Maybe go back to the shop with a tape measure and really check the damn thing out carefully. I don't have a tailor's eye, but I note that a tailor (or at least, an industry guy, not sure if Edmorel is a tailor but he seems to know an awful lot) has come on and commented about the jacket being a bit out of kilter. I think that's the one and only issue here. Is the jacket really out of kilter, or was that some funny lens distortion effect or your colostomy bag or some other extrinsic factor?

 

If you can satisfy yourself that the jacket is well made and sits straight on your body, buy it. My two cents' worth.


But Cox, I'm not a surgeon!

 

Fair point on the hem: I don't think it's the cut, see the other Weller jacket above. But it might be off kilter and I wasn't noticing it. I did check for length and didn't notice it then. Suffice it to say, I'm not buying it, but I agree, would be an interesting addition.

 

On other matters: did check out Eidos at Carson Street. Very nice though the patterns are too aggressive for me. Hope they will have more solids or lightly patterned options. FYI, the 48 in the Tipo cut from Eidos fit me well as did the 48 Formosa. Button stance was good, not too high. Gorge was rather high, though.

post #9268 of 37392

For discussion.

 

I can't help but be pulled to this (it's not available anymore):

 


It's a gray on navy ground, I think, with rust overcheck. Here's an Eidos (actually a gun check, but the blurriness makes it similar).

 


I just don't know if I could wear it. None of my colleagues wear coats and ties, so I usually go for sedate solids. Despite the fustiness of the houndstooth, the overcheck might just be too much...thoughts?

 

If I were to pair it, light gray or chocolate brown flannels, maybe mid gray though the contrast might disappear. Again solid of faintly patterned ties.

post #9269 of 37392
How them collars? Bathroom selfie
post #9270 of 37392

Noodles, get your wife to take a picture, full shot waist height. A selfie from the bottom is going to distort collar height .

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