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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 549

post #8221 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

You never stated what? You mean:

 

 

 

Anyway, enough of this banter....

 

 

Edit: LOL at this:

 

LOL - What took you so long to do this?

post #8222 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
 

LOL - What took you so long to do this?

 

Trying to stay "Good Natured" ;)

post #8223 of 37396

Well that escalated into immaturity.

 

Just a friendly discussion about a damn jacket and just starting arguing for no reason. Now that, is a troll.

post #8224 of 37396

@Murlsquirl

I trying to figure something out here.

Do you own any suits from SS? If so, what line and what size?

 

A month or two ago, I took my two coworkers to Suit Supply because they were smart and wouldn't get a Zegna or other brand name suits. I guided them as best as I could and their suits look great for the most part. As you guys know, I am like a "40 yr old virgin" waiting for the Formosa and so I thought I do some comparison to figure out if the Formosa would fit like the below SS. The styling of these suits are probably very different but I think a Formosa 40R would serve me well. 

 

Suit Supply 40R La Spalla

  Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
Suit Supply 40 46 111 78 89.9

900x900px-LL-0c297f89_20140614_162042-1.jpeg 

 

Formosa 38R

  Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
Formosa 38 46 106 77 87.5

900x900px-LL-5d727fd5_20140527_170118.jpeg

 

 

Formosa 40R

  Size Shoulder Chest Back Length Waist
Formosa 40 48 110 78 91.5

Out of Stock :(

post #8225 of 37396

Measurements don't always translate to actual fit, but it seems a good bet that the 40R Formosa will fit you well, Noodles.  I'll be jealous when it arrives. 

 

Everyone loved the La Spalla on you, but this pic makes me think that the high buttoning point won't do you too many favors in terms of porportion.  Did anyone suggest trying a 40L in La Spalla?

post #8226 of 37396
I have a few of the old Roma...not made anymore. Roma is the only SS cut I could get away with because it was a drop 10. Even with Formosa, my jackets are 50/52 and my trousers are 48. Like others, button stance is my main compliant with SS. Here is a Roma:



If you want, check with Greg to see if he has a spare pair of 50 trousers in the navy plaid. I might consider selling you the jacket if he does. I've found that with the soft shoulder, the 52 works better for me and the spalla manica a camicia is perfect with the 50.

The front view of that La Spalla looks great on you. It looks like you could cut the tag and be ready to roll.
post #8227 of 37396

Hmmmm...everyone has pretty much said that I should go 40L. 

But I am only 180cm or 5'11". 

My torso is long and my legs are...sorta short. 

I wonder why everyone is suggesting going L?

Can I get the 40R (since Formosas don't come in L) and get an alteration to lengthen it?

 

@Murlsquirl

Thanks for the response.

Woah...that's a nice offer. Let me call up Greg and see.

But I think I have to go with 48 trousers. Yes, seriously. 

post #8228 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

I don't like BD with ties, but that's is just a preference thing. I'm with Stitchy... everything about that fit is amazing. That is about as good of a summery look that you will find.

generally i do not love BDs with ties, but that is just me. it can be great, and i myself have pulled it off to great effect in the past. smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kira View Post

1. How? I just missed that the gorge is nearly on his shoulders. I don't like how it sits like that.

gorge is perfect.
Quote:
2. The collar isn't buttoned correctly. You see how it flaps? He just needs to re-button it.

collar roll is perfect.
Quote:
3. I don't care for the knot.

it is a bit small, but that is a quibble at best.
Quote:
so let's agree to disagree.

you are willing to disagree for all time, but the fact is you are, by all SF standards, 100% wrong. you are nit picking on an excellent fit by a member with some of the best fits on the board, and in the meantime have posted interest in 2 very loud, and imo, very ugly, SCs that look like they are from 1972.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kira View Post

Well that escalated into immaturity.

Just a friendly discussion about a damn jacket and just starting arguing for no reason. Now that, is a troll.

i would not call anyone a troll, but it is clear that you have a very different value set than pretty much everyone here.

the goal of this thread is not to appease everyone and help guide them to personal nirvana. the goal of this thread is for individuals who accept SF standards to help understand and apply them to their personal dress and closet.

its not for people who say, well no one around me can tell the difference, so what is the difference how old my SC looks, or i want to be a peacock. i am sure there are threads here for that, but this is not it.

this is not the thread for raging against the machine. please keep that in mind. its also a DH thread, and i would encourage clags to delete posts as he sees needed if this thread is abused.
post #8229 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kira View Post
 

 

1. How? I just missed that the gorge is nearly on his shoulders. I don't like how it sits like that.

 

2. The collar isn't buttoned correctly. You see how it flaps? He just needs to re-button it.

 

3 I don't care for the knot, so let's agree to disagree.

 

You have much to learn, but there's nothing wrong with that. Some good natured advice:

 

  1. The gorge is high, but it's not overly so. It could be slightly lower, but that depends on his proportions. Taller people can pull off a lower one more easily than shorter people.
  2. I don't see how you get to that conclusion. A button down collar has 2 buttons for the collar points, so it's impossible to button it incorrectly. The collar is unlined and has a nice roll to it, which is how buttondown collars are supposed to look. If you look at the original Brooks Brothers button down collars from 50 years ago, you'll see they have very soft and rolled collars. Here are two examples of BD collars that are inspired by the original ones:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

     3. The four in hand knot is as classic as it gets, and has been worn by all the major style figures for over a century now. Which tie knot do you prefer? (please don't               say double windsor)

 

This thread offers good natured advice, but most people also accept that advice in good nature. It's a two way street. SF caters to a wide variety of aesthetics, as does this thread, but it is still within the bounds of classic menswear.

post #8230 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Measurements don't always translate to actual fit, but it seems a good bet that the 40R Formosa will fit you well, Noodles.  I'll be jealous when it arrives. 

Everyone loved the La Spalla on you, but this pic makes me think that the high buttoning point won't do you too many favors in terms of porportion.  Did anyone suggest trying a 40L in La Spalla?

What's wrong with the buttoning point? Just curious. It doesn't seem high to me and a 40L will throw the sleeves off (they have functional buttonholes).

Kira is probably trolling and that's unfortunate for a good natured thread.
post #8231 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

Hmmmm...everyone has pretty much said that I should go 40L. 
But I am only 180cm or 5'11". 
My torso is long and my legs are...sorta short. 
I wonder why everyone is suggesting going L?
Can I get the 40R (since Formosas don't come in L) and get an alteration to lengthen it?

@Murlsquirl

Thanks for the response.
Woah...that's a nice offer. Let me call up Greg and see.
But I think I have to go with 48 trousers. Yes, seriously. 

I have 48 trousers so if you want to talk, PM me. You won't need a L in Formosa...I am 6'3".
post #8232 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

What's wrong with the buttoning point? Just curious. It doesn't seem high to me and a 40L will throw the sleeves off (they have functional buttonholes).

Kira is probably trolling and that's unfortunate for a good natured thread.

I'm with you, that is the best looking button stance I've seen on a SS cut.
post #8233 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post


What's wrong with the buttoning point? Just curious. It doesn't seem high to me and a 40L will throw the sleeves off (they have functional buttonholes).


Good point about the buttonholes; hadn't considered that, and the sleeves look good.  Maybe it's the pictures, but Noodles looks like he's more leg than torso, and the buttoning point seems to me to accentuate that.  Of course, it might look different with a tucked-in shirt. 

post #8234 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

 

You have much to learn, but there's nothing wrong with that. Some good natured advice:

 

  1. The gorge is high, but it's not overly so. It could be slightly lower, but that depends on his proportions. Taller people can pull off a lower one more easily than shorter people.
  2. I don't see how you get to that conclusion. A button down collar has 2 buttons for the collar points, so it's impossible to button it incorrectly. The collar is unlined and has a nice roll to it, which is how buttondown collars are supposed to look. If you look at the original Brooks Brothers button down collars from 50 years ago, you'll see they have very soft and rolled collars. Here's are two examples of BD collars that are inspired by the orignial ones:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

. The four in hand knot is as classic as it gets, and has been worn by all the major style figures for over a century now. Which tie knot do you prefer?

 

This thread offers good natured advice, but most people also accept that advice in good nature. It's a two way street.

 

1. I'll agree to that.

 

2. I never had any button down collars like that, so it looked foreign to me. Brook's Brothers get raving reviews here. I see that they have a 3 for $99 sale or something like that?

 

3. The reason why I didn't like the know because the amount of spacing between the knot and the collars. No, I don't like any knots except the FIH and double FIH.

 

I've accepted the good natured advice that was on here, but the ones that are confrontational and provide no form of reason at all-- I don't.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


generally i do not love BDs with ties, but that is just me. it can be great, and i myself have pulled it off to great effect in the past. smile.gif
gorge is perfect.
collar roll is perfect.


it is a bit small, but that is a quibble at best.
you are willing to disagree for all time, but the fact is you are, by all SF standards, 100% wrong. you are nit picking on an excellent fit by a member with some of the best fits on the board, and in the meantime have posted interest in 2 very loud, and imo, very ugly, SCs that look like they are from 1972.
i would not call anyone a troll, but it is clear that you have a very different value set than pretty much everyone here.

the goal of this thread is not to appease everyone and help guide them to personal nirvana. the goal of this thread is for individuals who accept SF standards to help understand and apply them to their personal dress and closet.

its not for people who say, well no one around me can tell the difference, so what is the difference how old my SC looks, or i want to be a peacock. i am sure there are threads here for that, but this is not it.


this is not the thread for raging against the machine. please keep that in mind. its also a DH thread, and i would encourage clags to delete posts as he sees needed if this thread is abused.

 

Perhaps this discussion would've been more productive if I didn't have the mark of a neophyte. I see how other members post gratuitous and inflammatory remarks towards me for no reason other than the sake of it. Remember, I did state that I was new to redefining my personal dress and I had much to learn. I gave my arguments against it and others rebutted it. Provide some feedback on how I'm wrong and I'll stand corrected. I already mentioned that those jackets aren't acceptable to SF standards because they don't follow the provisions.

 

Perhaps I don't know any better. Maybe I have more to learn that I believe..


Edited by Kira - 7/1/14 at 12:33pm
post #8235 of 37396

@kulata, no I'm not. I'm just another user that's new to the art of Sartorialism. I didn't know that the aforementioned picture was regarded as SF approved.

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