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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 524

post #7846 of 37533
I like the top pic as far as shoulders go. I don't think I'm qualified for any other critiquing except, bottom pic, CAMEL TOE! biggrin.gif
post #7847 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post




Don't know the technical term--armscye?--but look how the line of the sleeve head extends fairly straight down from the shoulder in the first pic, and how it's cut at a more exaggerated angle on the second. The shoulder on the top jacket is stronger and broader, definitely more flattering. Funny how something about the other shoulder always bugged me, but I couldn't put my finger on it. kulata nailed it.

edit: scrolling back and forth between the two, it's amazing to me how much better the top jacket (I assume the BnT) looks. A good illustration of the difference superior tailoring can make.
Edited by AJL - 6/22/14 at 9:44am
post #7848 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Don't know the technical term--armscye?--but look how the line of the sleeve head extends fairly straight down from the shoulder in the first pic, and how it's cut at a more exaggerated angle on the second. The shoulder on the top jacket is stronger and broader, definitely more flattering. Funny how something about the other shoulder always bugged me, but I couldn't put my finger on it. kulata nailed it.

edit: scrolling back and forth between the two, it's amazing to me how much better the top jacket (I assume the BnT) looks. A good illustration of the difference superior tailoring can make.

Iirc, the top one is MTM.
Both fit great, no need for bnt in your case imho.
post #7849 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by timotune View Post

Iirc, the top one is MTM.
Both fit great, no need for bnt in your case imho.

If this is the case, I concur.
post #7850 of 37533

I'd only go for B&T if you want their aesthetic: extended shoulders, draped chest, high rise trousers, and a lower buttoning point. It's all very dramatic, but it does look very nice. Seeing as you prefer a more sober style, you might as well go back to MTM with some slight changes. FWIW, I do prefer the slightly bigger shoulders and chest on your B&T suit. Do you notice any difference in how it feels when wearing the suit?

post #7851 of 37533
I def prefer the BnT. The MTM has a high waist and flares out at the skirt, which I don't like. I would probably prefer lowering the waist and buttoning point of the BnT as well. Also is it just me or do your pockets end pretty far from the hem? Looks like they have a standard pocket size and always set the pocket at the bottom button, but you are taller than most of their customers.

I wouldn't have done patch pockets on the top suit.
post #7852 of 37533
Both suits look quite good to me, Claghorn, but you also seem to have a pretty developed wardrobe. If you still want to acquire a number of additional pieces, MTM is probably a more practical option and, while I think I slightly prefer the bespoke one, I don't think the incremental minor benefits are worth paying multiple times the price. On the other hand, if you are making more selective acquisitions at this point, you can make a slightly stronger argument for paying more per suit and doing a slow quality upgrade as others on here have done.

Most men who are in reasonably good shape and don't have a lot of strange fitting issues can probably do just fine with good quality MTM IMHO.
post #7853 of 37533

The chest on the B&T just looks a lot better to me. I'm not sure what they are doing differently but it does, as others have noted, look fuller. The first one sits more flatly on your chest. The other striking feature, aside from shoulder extension is the slope of the shoulders which in the B&T looks more dramatic. I'm puzzled. Do you have a very sloping shoulder? Why are they so different, or is that an optical illusion?

 

I suspect that for minor things like the skirt and shoulder expression, you might be able to get some adjustments with MTM. But not clear that MTM can reproduce well the substance in the chest drape. I do prefer the B&T (the bottom, yes?). That said, I also think you would do fine to continue with the MTM with some adjustment. The MTM is pretty good; looks good.

 

A thought: since you have so many things, why not just slowly accumulate pieces with B&T? Do you really need 6-12 new suits for the price of 3 good B&T ones? Assuming you have a good wardrobe at this point, I suggest B&T to round out and expand a good base.

 

Edit: one thing to consider that doesn't come up in this thread so much. You might want to have a family some day (if you don't already), and kids are expensive. It's nice to spend money on clothes but in the long run, sacrifices would have to be made. Your MTM would be more than fine when redistribution of resources is needed, like diapers and daycare--unless your job is going to pay X times the salary you currently make.

post #7854 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I def prefer the BnT. The MTM has a high waist and flares out at the skirt, which I don't like. I would probably prefer lowering the waist and buttoning point of the BnT as well. Also is it just me or do your pockets end pretty far from the hem? Looks like they have a standard pocket size and always set the pocket at the bottom button, but you are taller than most of their customers.
 

Is there some norm for where the pockets end or begin? I've asked in the tailor's thread, and the response from some of them suggested that there isn't a norm, but a certain setting might be more aesthetically pleasing, depending on height etc. Do you have a thought about this?

post #7855 of 37533
I don't have any rule about it, but Clags' pockets look a little high to me. I think I would have just made them bigger.

Does BnT always use a front dart? Interesting they would do that as Liverano generally does not.
post #7856 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

The chest on the B&T just looks a lot better to me. I'm not sure what they are doing differently but it does, as others have noted, look fuller. The first one sits more flatly on your chest. The other striking feature, aside from shoulder extension is the slope of the shoulders which in the B&T looks more dramatic. I'm puzzled. Do you have a very sloping shoulder? Why are they so different, or is that an optical illusion?

I can see what others are saying about the fuller chest and shapelier waist on the BnT, but it is that sloping shoulder that throws me off. I find it too pronounced, though I may be in the minority on this. If it would be possible to extend the shoulder slightly on the mtm w/o that drooping shoulder effect it would strike a nice balance imo. It makes him look like he's slouching.

Note : As I am still learning, I concede there are times I should listen more and comment less (see: reversing the i.d. of the two jackets and subsequent commentary). Seeing as this is the Noodles thread, perhaps there is a bit more latitude given for half-baked proclamations. shog[1].gif
post #7857 of 37533
I'd love to see examples of good fitting jackets versus bad fitting jackets to clearly point out what to look for. Then again, I just need to look at the rest of WAYWRN vs me to accomplish that. XD

Sloped shoulder vs structured shoulder. I will dig around for some pix here. Let hammer out the jackets here at Noodles Thread. We have ties down. We have shoes down. We have a lot dwon.
post #7858 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I'd love to see examples of good fitting jackets versus bad fitting jackets to clearly point out what to look for. Then again, I just need to look at the rest of WAYWRN vs me to accomplish that. XD

Sloped shoulder vs structured shoulder. I will dig around for some pix here. Let hammer out the jackets here at Noodles Thread. We have ties down. We have shoes down. We have a lot dwon.

 

Read this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/115692/get-foofed It's focused on a particular style, but it's very entertaining and does offer some insight.

post #7859 of 37533
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjpj83 View Post


Quote:


Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Yes - that's the point. Minimal padding is IMO the best option for sloped shoulder. I think compensating the slope with a built shoulder is a real mistake




This should be interesting. I'm not sure I agree.


For instance, here is very minimally padded jacket, one on a chap with sloping shoulders, the other on a chap with much squarer shoulders. I think the sloping shoulder dude looks pretty ridiculous.
LL

LL
post #7860 of 37533
I have this picture that I have saved, it's of an attolini model. Ultimately if I am ever able to achieve the fit, I'll sign off SF forever.

It's what I consider an ideal suit fit.

tumblr_mi11oaO5Va1qh2pv5o1_1280.jpg
Edited by kulata - 6/23/14 at 5:31am
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