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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 494

post #7396 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

^ me too....so I ordered it.

i want to. but i need to not be a moran with my money from time to time.

funny how somehow this balances in my mind.

1500 jacket and a 2000 suit, yup!

45 tie, nope, gotta save!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Well, we can agree that there are ties that are too wide and ties that are too narrow. Probably we can all agree that 4 inches is too wide for the tie blade and 2.75 I am going to venture, too narrow, for ties you would wear with a suit. Then YMMV.
I don't think a 3 inch tie will work well with your formosa: the Formosa looks to have nice wide lapels and given the narrowness of the above tie, the knot will be smaller and the amount of material from the knot also narrower (you can compensate slightly with a DFIH). I like a bit more fullness in the knot and the front blade throughout. It's a small difference, but it does matter to me. Again, YMMV.
But I'd love to be proven wrong: please put on a 3 inch wide tie and wear one of your lovely formosas, jacket unbuttoned.smile.gif  
Of course, with narrower lapels, a narrower tie would be more appropriate.

i have posted many times with my formosa and a drakes or bigi tie, 3 or 3.25 inch ties. looks awesome.

i can find pics if you need. smile.gif
post #7397 of 37396

3" is on the narrower side (that's 7.6 cm).   It's also not Bigi's house cut (9 cm) so I don't know how well it knots or how good the knot looks when they skinny down their pattern that much.     

post #7398 of 37396

Hmmm...the striped I like in navy/brown is marked as 3inch width; the same striped one but in the burgundy is marked 3.25...which is right?

 

Yes, 3.25 is my cut-off too.

post #7399 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i can find pics if you need. smile.gif

Oh, I know you look good in your pics!

 

I have a drake's at just about 3inches, though really with allowances, a touch below that. It was bought in the Mr Porter's sale a few years ago. It's a beautiful tie (midnight/striped grenadine) that knots terribly even with a DFIH and just is too narrow. That's why I avoid 3 inch ties (and why I like NMWA better than Mr. Porter...Barneys and Mr. Porter seem to like 3inch ties as their main cut).

 

I'm venturing your Drake's are all 3.25 inches and that it makes a difference to why your ties look good.

post #7400 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Oh, I know you look good in your pics!

 

I have a drake's at just about 3inches, though really with allowances, a touch below that. It was bought in the Mr Porter's sale a few years ago. It's a beautiful tie (midnight/striped grenadine) that knots terribly even with a DFIH and just is too narrow. That's why I avoid 3 inch ties (and why I like NMWA better than Mr. Porter...Barneys and Mr. Porter seem to like 3inch ties as their main cut).

 

I'm venturing your Drake's are all 3.25 inches and that it makes a difference to why your ties look good.

 

I even have a Drakes tie that's 7cm/2.75", but it's an unlined grenadine, so I wear it in place of a knit tie with sport coats. I do prefer ties around 3.5" though, but I'm guessing it'll take a year or two before the #menswear pendulum swings back from skinny to normal widths, only to go beyond that to 4" in the years after that, assuming history does repeat itself.


Edited by Monkeyface - 6/11/14 at 12:19pm
post #7401 of 37396

That's probably what my Drakes is in reality (7.5cm)...I also wear it with a casual coat that has narrower lapels...though my knit from Lands End knots better.

 

Actually, the more I wear the latter, the more I'm into the its wide weave. It's nice that the tie is in a way "transluscent". Not sure all knits are equally wide in weave.

post #7402 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Oh, I know you look good in your pics!

I have a drake's at just about 3inches, though really with allowances, a touch below that. It was bought in the Mr Porter's sale a few years ago. It's a beautiful tie (midnight/striped grenadine) that knots terribly even with a DFIH and just is too narrow. That's why I avoid 3 inch ties (and why I like NMWA better than Mr. Porter...Barneys and Mr. Porter seem to like 3inch ties as their main cut).

I'm venturing your Drake's are all 3.25 inches and that it makes a difference to why your ties look good.

i have no idea what my drake are. whatever @gdl203 says is what they are. smile.gif
post #7403 of 37396

In need of good natured advice!

 

Just got these pants in. I'm not sure if I like the no-pleat look on a no-belt trouser.

 

Should I add buttons and wear them with braces? Get a Suit Jacket made with the same fabric and make it a suit? Or just, next time, get those pleats?

 

Other than the no-pleat, which is my bad, they fit great I think. WARNING: Arse pic.

 

 

post #7404 of 37396

I think they look quite nice. If they stay up, no need for braces.

 

I do think you might need to have a little more room let out in the back along the center seam (it's almost a wedgie) and perhaps a touch more around the hip...it's pulling a little in the front (are the pockets flaring slightly?). But as your coat will cover the back, not an issue. It might be that if you let out the fork a little this will take care of these problems...ask tailors?

 

I don't have a view about pleats, but I think they look fine without them.

post #7405 of 37396

@mrjester

If I may, I have two trousers with no belt loops from RLBL suits and I've realized that your shirt needs to be fitting so that there is no bunching up around the waist. Your pants fit fine to my eyes. I think you just need more fitting shirts.

 

It is my humble opinion that trousers with no belt loops make the silhouette flow cleanly with no break.

 

That's all I, a n00b, can contribute.  

post #7406 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

@mrjester

If I may, I have two trousers with no belt loops from RLBL suits and I've realized that your shirt needs to be fitting so that there is no bunching up around the waist. Your pants fit fine to my eyes. I think you just need more fitting shirts.

 

It is my humble opinion that trousers with no belt loops make the silhouette flow cleanly with no break.

 

That's all I, a n00b, can contribute.  

I actually agree. I have slack in these because they're linen and I wear them casually (untucked) from time to time. I do however need to fix them and cut the bunching out.

 

Thanks Rudals!

post #7407 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


i have no idea what my drake are. whatever @gdl203 says is what they are. smile.gif

8 cm, their house style

post #7408 of 37396
I need help too yall.
I would like to pick up a pair of black oxfords for my dad for Fathers Day. But here are some reasons why I can't buy a Carmina or a C&J. He doesnt want to wear expensive shoes because he is a minister and he cares about his congregants. So I have to get him something below $200. I have Aldens and AE stores here in DC but they start above $300.

Maybe I should just get a decent pair and tell him it was only $100. "Praise da lawrd!"
post #7409 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I need help too yall.
I would like to pick up a pair of black oxfords for my dad for Fathers Day. But here are some reasons why I can't buy a Carmina or a C&J. He doesnt want to wear expensive shoes because he is a minister and he cares about his congregants. So I have to get him something below $200. I have Aldens and AE stores here in DC but they start above $300.

Maybe I should just get a decent pair and tell him it was only $100. "Praise da lawrd!"

 

Allen Edmonds Black Park Avenue seconds. IMO. Great quality with minor blemishes.

 

www.shoebank.com I think they are just about at $200

 

After you find the style, call this number and you can order over the phone. 262-284-7158

post #7410 of 37396
I think you should pick up a pair of AE's. Don't lie to your dad (of course), but tell him the virtues of buying decent quality shoes. He will likely wear out 5-6 lower quality shoes in the time it takes him to wear out these (i.e. the kind of sound investment you'd like to see your minister make). Also, AE's don't look like luxury shoes, and therefore doesn't imply him being particularly indulgent and/or vain.
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