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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 478

post #7156 of 37403
Rudals, if you feel the chest tight… I dunno, maybe try the 42? If that is the Milano or Roma cut, can quite remember which one is the slim fit, it is quite small. On those cuts I have to use a 46.
post #7157 of 37403
46?!!!!!!
Stop with the crazy work outs Betel. Lol. Yes, that is the Milano and no, that is not a slim one. That's Torino. Roma has been phased out long ago.

Listen y'all. I was just trying it on. It was a size up of what I usually wear. All my Zegnas are 38R and none fit well so I tried on a 40R.
post #7158 of 37403
Good you tried it on Rudals, keep doing that. I also liked your own analysis. Sometimes a cut just doesn't work for you, no matter what size you try on.
post #7159 of 37403
are you calling betel fat? mad.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

46?!!!!!!
Stop with the crazy work outs Betel.
post #7160 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

are you calling betel fat? mad.gif

lol8[1].gif
post #7161 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Rudals, if you feel the chest tight… I dunno, maybe try the 42? If that is the Milano or Roma cut, can quite remember which one is the slim fit, it is quite small. On those cuts I have to use a 46.

 

IMO this is all because Noodles seems to be obsessed about very close fitting shoulders. But since his shoulders are narrow in relation to his chest and his hips, he will have these issues of tightness around the chest and quarters pulling open. The resulting somewhat pear shaped silhouette is not flattering him. On top of that, his shoulders appear rather round shaped, with substantial upper arms, which results in those divots.

I've said it before and I'll say it again: I believe he should not go for a close fitting natural shoulder, but for a slightly extended roped shoulder. Anyway, just my $0.02....

post #7162 of 37403
  • Rudals have you considered Zegna su misura... would not that be an option? And it´s not that much more expensive. (I think)

Edited by calypso - 6/8/14 at 2:59am
post #7163 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

IMO this is all because Noodles seems to be obsessed about very close fitting shoulders. But since his shoulders are narrow in relation to his chest and his hips, he will have these issues of tightness around the chest and quarters pulling open. The resulting somewhat pear shaped silhouette is not flattering him. On top of that, his shoulders appear rather round shaped, with substantial upper arms, which results in those divots.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: I believe he should not go for a close fitting natural shoulder, but for a slightly extended roped shoulder. Anyway, just my $0.02....

Extended shoulders needs a bit of structure and Noodles with his narrow shoulders possibly has big shoulder blades hence the divots (fabric is pulling at the blades most likely not 100% certain). But I like the fact that he is trying things on and educating himself on fit that works for him. That's all I ask of him.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
But another current season Zegna!!! Come on now Rudals!!! foo.giffoo.giffoo.gif

Brands Readily Available in Stores that may work
Oxxford 1220 and Type A
Corneliani Leader
Suitsupply La Spalla
Suitsupply Napoli (L size)
Suitsupply [insert any DB]

When you know your measurements and other variables like second nature and you are ready to shop online and return if it doesn't work out then try the following:
Sartoria Partenopea (Some have small lapels though)
La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
Sartoria Attolini
Stile Latino
Pal Zileri Sartoriale (the Sartoriale line is cut with extended shoulders and generous lapels )
Luciano Barbera Sartoriale (Either made by St Andrews or Attolini. They have good shoulder extension and generous lapels)
post #7164 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Rudals, if you feel the chest tight… I dunno, maybe try the 42? If that is the Milano or Roma cut, can quite remember which one is the slim fit, it is quite small. On those cuts I have to use a 46.

IMO this is all because Noodles seems to be obsessed about very close fitting shoulders. But since his shoulders are narrow in relation to his chest and his hips, he will have these issues of tightness around the chest and quarters pulling open. The resulting somewhat pear shaped silhouette is not flattering him. On top of that, his shoulders appear rather round shaped, with substantial upper arms, which results in those divots.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: I believe he should not go for a close fitting natural shoulder, but for a slightly extended roped shoulder. Anyway, just my $0.02....

This.

In the opening chapter of 'Dressing the Man', Flusser makes the comparison between clothing and architecture: both have underlying principles based upon structure. In terms of clothing [suit / odd jackets], it is a man's physiology - his physical proportions - that governs what cut / style is most appropriate for his features. For all the love of everything Neapolitan, the cut and attitude will not be appropriate to all. As mentioned before, my particular physique - narrow, rounded shoulders - requires more structure in the shoulder. Also, I do not have a sprezzatura temperament; more akin to a Princess Leia personality.

I'm surprised that Slewfoot's posts of his Steed outfits haven't received comment regarding extenuating his hips, giving him a very feminine cut.

Rudals, start with measuring yourself, and then looking for suits that are appropriate to your physiology. I note that you have a long neck and that you feel that you have a large face / head in proportion to your body. You ought to have wider lapels rather than skinny, to balance out your slighter wider face. As others have stated, you need to get used to trying on a wide variety of outfits in different sizes (size up and down) and observe yourself from the front, side and back.

I find trying on clothes a chore, and my overriding goal was to find something I like, see if it vaguely fits, buy it and get the hell out of the shop. I've turned my goal on it's head. I need to plan when I will go looking for clothes, and have a good idea of what I want in my mind, then go by myself (no girlfriend) and try on a variety of outfits with the overriding aim to see what is a good fit and works with my physiology. If I'm not 100% happy, no sale! I haven't always achieved this goal, which is why it is important to only go looking for outfits when one is in the appropriate mental state of mind to avoid expensive mistakes. A good returns policy is worth its weight in gold for the latter e.g. I bought a tan linen sports-coat from Gant, mainly due to my girlfriend. When I tried it on at home, I wasn't entirely convinced it was a good purchase. Fortunately, Gant have an excellent returns policy, and I hadn't worn the jacket outside my house, so I was able to return the garment and credit my credit card with minimal fuss.

Don't rush the process, Rudals. Impulse purchases leads to the Devil's road re: excessive credit card bills and having your outfits excoriated on SF.
post #7165 of 37403
Thread Starter 
Divots are more about construction than fit. The sleeve head is too big for the jacket. I guess if one had well developed delts theyd push it smooth...
post #7166 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Divots are more about construction than fit. The sleeve head is too big for the jacket. I guess if one had well developed delts theyd push it smooth...

Sleeve head is one factor, shoulder blades is another factor according to Jeffryd and i have experienced both in jackets have tried on or owned. The reason I'll never own a Cantarelli.
post #7167 of 37403

So, Rudals, start working out your shoulders! I bet your arms are more developed than your shoulders from doing lots of isolation exercises such as curls instead of full body exercises. Start doing pull ups, military press/shoulder press and perhaps some lateral raises to even things out again.. Make sure you use good form to avoid injuries.

post #7168 of 37403

Apologies for my very poor illustrating talents, but this is what I think is happening in Noodles case:

1. The sleeve on a  jacket with a natural shoulder will 'bump' against his full upper arm, causing a divot to appear.

2. With a roped shoulder, the sleeve's outer edge is a bit more extended, falling smoothly along his upper arm (at least, that's what we hope...)

 



Edit: I just learned from the post below that the dent we see in your pic is not a divot. Sorry, obviously I'm not familiar enough with the vocabulary, but I think it's still clear what I mean.
post #7169 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Rudals,

I don't think that's a divot. @Despos
explains this somewhere in the Tailor's thread where this is just due to the fact that you have a large muscle/bulk in that area of the upper arm. I think that a tailor normally also measures the width of your body around your arms there to accommodate that extra bulk when the jacket is cut. This jacket just doesn't accommodate that part of your arm (and several of your other suits, the Zegnas, do not either). Hence, it bulges, but it's not creating a divot. Just a guess.

^ This

@Rudals Did the jacket feel tight and restrictive under your armpits? The shoulder width looks fine and I'm guessing that this issue is caused by the armhole being to tight to accommodate the width of your upper arm and possibly also being too tight in your chest. This also would explain why it's only on the right side assuming that is your dominant arm. I could be completely off since I'm only trying to tell by looking at one picture, but this is probably one of the most common problems I have had personally with RTW. The fact that the SA tried to recommend you a 38 when the 40 clearly looks to tight should explain exactly how you ended up in the predicament you are in to begin with.
post #7170 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

So, Rudals, start working out your shoulders! I bet your arms are more developed than your shoulders from doing lots of isolation exercises such as curls instead of full body exercises. Start doing pull ups, military press/shoulder press and perhaps some lateral raises to even things out again.. Make sure you use good form to avoid injuries.
Good advice. Thx.
I do curls with 40lbs dumbbells.
I will focus on shoulder exercises.
I hate having narrow shoulders.
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