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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 477

post #7141 of 37396
The cut of that jacket doesn't work for you and the shoulders are too big. They day I listen to a SA at a department store is the day I start subscribing to GQ...a very sad one.
post #7142 of 37396
I thought you took a firm stance again slimmer than Formosa lapels? Decided that was too extreme a stance? biggrin.gif Oh, Noodles

On the shoulder's, I can't make a call without a better picture. It's shot from a low angle. In fact, I can't assess the fit of anything because the picture angle is so poor biggrin.gif

At the moment, though, they don't look too wide. I don't know where @Murlsquirl is coming from? A little bit of overhang is okay. I actually prefer slightly extended shoulders because I have a big head. So did this guy
Quote:
North-By-Northwest-4.jpg
post #7143 of 37396
Yup. Thats a 40R.
post #7144 of 37396
Bring a measuring tape next time and measure the width of the shoulders. smile.gif That's how I always decide if I'm on the fence or can't gauge using a mirror
post #7145 of 37396
Slight extension can work with soft/natural shoulders, but not those. It looks like they are extended to the point where they dimple / crease. That's just what I got out of that picture.
post #7146 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

I thought you took a firm stance again slimmer than Formosa lapels? Decided that was too extreme a stance? biggrin.gif Oh, Noodles

On the shoulder's, I can't make a call without a better picture. It's shot from a low angle. In fact, I can't assess the fit of anything because the picture angle is so poor biggrin.gif

At the moment, though, they don't look too wide. I don't know where @Murlsquirl is coming from? A little bit of overhang is okay. I actually prefer slightly extended shoulders because I have a big head. So did this guy

Gotta side with Murl on this one: shoulders look lumpy and overextended in a not good way, part. right shoulder.
post #7147 of 37396
Dunno if I agree with that tautology, Murl

Cary Grant's shoulders were not soft in that pic. That NxNW suit was made by Kilgour, which I believe does a military or equestrian cut with a structured shoulder

Edit: yep, they were padded
Quote:
The suit jacket has a 3-button front rolled to the middle button. Though some people have the idea that this suit has no darts like the American sack, there are indeed darts to shape the front. The shoulders are padded and straight with roped sleeveheads.

http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=864
post #7148 of 37396
He also appears to be leaning to the side with the extension

Point is, I'm not ready to make a definitive ruling until we get a better pic smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Gotta side with Murl on this one: shoulders look lumpy and overextended in a not good way, part. right shoulder.
post #7149 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

^ Cary Grant's shoulders were not soft in that pic either. That NxNW suit was made by Kilgour, which I believe does a military or equestrian cut with a structured shoulder

Fair nuff...but it doesn't work with the jacket Rudals is wearing. I'm guessing it has to due with the construction of the chest, back, sleeve, etc. Key word being, "guessing".

I agree with you....my judgement was premature and based on a crap picture.
post #7150 of 37396
Rudals posted a picture of the grey Zegna not too long ago that was taken at a low angle. It appeared "pear shaped" in that pic

Then when he posted a normal pic, the apparent "pear shape" was no longer present

@gdl203 not this, I think
post #7151 of 37396
Better(?) Pic with commentary.


Side note: Asked wife to pick me out a nice tie at Neiman Marcus. She took a look. Then she said just order the one she picked out from Vanda. Lol
post #7152 of 37396

Noodles, you seem to have quite high expectations of a RTW. Sure, the shoulders aren't as good as they could be but the chest tightness and slight pull are barely evident and IMO the open quarters aren't an issue (but each to their own). Point being: 99% of people are not going to notice these things and it is highly likely your grail Formosa will also have issues, so go easy on yourself otherwise you are only ever going to be happy with bespoke.

post #7153 of 37396
I stand by my shoulder comment...the right is a little off. Overall, the fit is not bad at all.
post #7154 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spandexter View Post

Noodles, you seem to have quite high expectations of a RTW. Sure, the shoulders aren't as good as they could be but the chest tightness and slight pull are barely evident and IMO the open quarters aren't an issue (but each to their own). Point being: 99% of people are not going to notice these things and it is highly likely your grail Formosa will also have issues, so go easy on yourself otherwise you are only ever going to be happy with bespoke.

Agreed that the quarters aren't an issue. I like them as is on that jacket. Those shoulders, though, would be a deal killer for me, RTW or not.
post #7155 of 37396

Rudals,

 

I don't think that's a divot. @Despos explains this somewhere in the Tailor's thread where this is just due to the fact that you have a large muscle/bulk in that area of the upper arm. I think that a tailor normally also measures the width of your body around your arms there to accommodate that extra bulk when the jacket is cut. This jacket just doesn't accommodate that part of your arm (and several of your other suits, the Zegnas, do not either). Hence, it bulges, but it's not creating a divot. Just a guess.

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