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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 445

post #6661 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

6'3", I wouldn't want to be 6'8". I can pull of the 50 using the hand cup and ass cover rules, but not the BOC to floor. My legs are too long so that never works. If a L was offered, I would buy it, but my R is nowhere near Thom Browne territory so I'm good as far as I'm concerned....which is all that matters.
I'm in a similar "position", 6'2, long legs, so the 50R works like you described. Ideal might be 2cm longer. I'm in on the f/w suit MTO and wonder whether I should have gone for 50L, assuming the cut pattern exists at SartForm, as it would clearly improve the top/bottom half ratio fit.
When I check the 52R vs L measurements it show around 3cm are added.
Are you in on the MTO? If so, with R or L?
(@gdl203, too)
(Maybe I should have put this in the NMWA thread but as we are discussing Formosa fits here, it seems appropriate?)
post #6662 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Pardon if I'm being obtuse, but you compare jacket hem to the crotch of the pants to what end? So that the top of the "vee" of the crotch lines up with the jacket hem? How do you account for differing fit in pants?

Not lines up - that would be too short. It should go at least a little bit past the inverted "vee". If the pants fit right and you set them to where they should be on your waist, then this spot shouldn't change. If it's a suit, then you'll always be wearing those same pants anyway.
post #6663 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Not lines up - that would be too short. It should go at least a little bit past the inverted "vee". If the pants fit right and you set them to where they should be on your waist, then this spot shouldn't change. If it's a suit, then you'll always be wearing those same pants anyway.

I see. Well either one of these fits passes that test, the Formosa obviously running a bit farther past.

You're a knowledgable fellow in these matters; what's your take on the visual evidence before you? The Isaia short measures 29" in length, while the Formosa reg runs to about 30.3" Greg informs me the Formosa short would go to about 29.6" or thereabouts. I'm inclined to go with the Formosa short, thereby effectively splitting the difference in length between these two jackets. Greg favors the reg Formosa straight up at 30.3" as seen here, though honestly I've never owned a jacket that long, so there's also a psychological component for me.
post #6664 of 37395
To my eye, the longer jackets make your legs look too short. I'm not sure what jrd's on about, though. All of them cover your ass. As I mentioned above, if the longer jacket is worn as part of a suit, the effect will be minimized. But the better look is the short.
post #6665 of 37395
AJL hadn't properly labeled the shots. I thought we were only looking at 48 vs 50, not 48S, 48R, 50R etc

The 48S looks best then. The 40R does not look "bad." It is just a little longer, within acceptable range.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

To my eye, the longer jackets make your legs look too short. I'm not sure what jrd's on about, though. All of them cover your ass. As I mentioned above, if the longer jacket is worn as part of a suit, the effect will be minimized. But the better look is the short.
post #6666 of 37395
How tall are you, AJL?
post #6667 of 37395
5' 7"
post #6668 of 37395

Apropos discussion of B&S a few posts back, I've an Inis Meain cashmere/wool (30/70) sweater I need to unload. It's this one or a version of this:

 

http://inismeain.ie/product/a1243-donegal-purl-vneck-brown-donegal-tweed

 

It's got a beautiful hand, lovely color, visual interest and texture. It's marked as medium, but I think it's really more a large. New with tags (Barneys: list $475)

 

Lying flat:

 

P2P 21.5 inches

Shoulder 19 inches (seam to seam)

Sleeve Approx 19 inches on the inside/23.5 inches on the outside

Back length 26 inches

 

These measurements are closer to the large on the IM website though the sleeves on mine are a little longer. Go figure.

 

I found that it fit me a bit too big in the shoulders and slightly large in the chest though I'm normally a 39R. The weave is relaxed. I'm a 34 sleeve in shirts and this works fine perhaps because the material stretches. Best to measure a good sweater of your own. I'm guessing if you are a US 42 or so, this would work.

 

I'm offering it here to Noodlers who are active participant in the thread or in SF in general before trying B&S. If you are interested, please PM me for the price. Let us just say I got a really good deal on it and am happy to pass it on to comrades here. Again, PM only if you've been active in the thread or SF.

post #6669 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post

I'm in a similar "position", 6'2, long legs, so the 50R works like you described. Ideal might be 2cm longer. I'm in on the f/w suit MTO and wonder whether I should have gone for 50L, assuming the cut pattern exists at SartForm, as it would clearly improve the top/bottom half ratio fit.
When I check the 52R vs L measurements it show around 3cm are added.
Are you in on the MTO? If so, with R or L?
(@gdl203, too)
(Maybe I should have put this in the NMWA thread but as we are discussing Formosa fits here, it seems appropriate?)

I didn't jump on the MTO...nothing I needed/wanted. I'm still hoping a grey flannel gets returned. After all this crazy length talk, I went home yesterday and put on my suit to double check everything. I like it and I think the length looks great... It easily passes Unbel's crotch test too. I think when I order a MTO SC it might be a 50L, but for suits, I like my 50R.
post #6670 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post


I didn't jump on the MTO...nothing I needed/wanted. I'm still hoping a grey flannel gets returned. After all this crazy length talk, I went home yesterday and put on my suit to double check everything. I like it and I think the length looks great... It easily passes Unbel's crotch test too. I think when I order a MTO SC it might be a 50L, but for suits, I like my 50R.

That's the crucial bit. Once you're in an acceptable range, this is what matters.

post #6671 of 37395

Sorry, but I think we need to put a stop to the Unbel crotch test before it gathers steam.  I have seen the future of this test and it involves close-ups of members' crotches and careful analysis by all regarding how the jacket falls with regard to the V in the crotch.  It also involves confused wives and girlfriends seeing these blow-up crotch shots on the computer monitor and deciding it's time for a talk.

post #6672 of 37395
post #6673 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

I didn't jump on the MTO...nothing I needed/wanted. I'm still hoping a grey flannel gets returned. After all this crazy length talk, I went home yesterday and put on my suit to double check everything. I like it and I think the length looks great... It easily passes Unbel's crotch test too. I think when I order a MTO SC it might be a 50L, but for suits, I like my 50R.
Thanks for the encouraging FB, Murls. I have had the same sinking feeling that I might have missed something and will probably still take some daylight time tomorrow for a thorough check taking hilarious selfies.
BTW, wasn't there a grey flannel suit in the MTO?
post #6674 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post

BTW, wasn't there a grey flannel suit in the MTO?

Yep, but I can't get down with herringbone. Don't like it.
post #6675 of 37395
eek.gif

i have seen that fabric in person and its amazing. also, my DB is a herringbone. you cant really see if from a few feet out tho.
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