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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 404

post #6046 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 

My opinion is that it's not dull enough to be worn with a sport coat. It's to bright I believe, could be your camera/flash though. This is one of the reasons I'm only fond of Sam Hober's grenadines. His other ties tend to be to shiny for my taste. But that is purely conclusion based on the pictures from the website. I had this discussion with Rudals yesterday. For example, here's Cappelli's (Rudal's reference above) interpretation of Macclesfield #134: http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_17&products_id=1737

It is more dull and by that automatically (at least for me since I like to wear dull colors, flannels, worsted etc) more versatile.

Get some swatches from Hober, the photos on the site do not represent the ties very accurately. I just got some swatches of the non-grenadine silks, and many of them are entirely matte. For $11 you can get 24 swatches, which translates to a good deal of daydreaming about ties. I have my 2nd set of 24 coming in the mail right now.

post #6047 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldsalmon View Post
 

Get some swatches from Hober, the photos on the site do not represent the ties very accurately. I just got some swatches of the non-grenadine silks, and many of them are entirely matte. For $11 you can get 24 swatches, which translates to a good deal of daydreaming about ties. I have my 2nd set of 24 coming in the mail right now.

Definitely get them swatches. What you see on the website is not what it really looks like. 

I made that mistake with a grey grenade tie. Turns out it is more silver...ish. 

post #6048 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldsalmon View Post
 

Get some swatches from Hober, the photos on the site do not represent the ties very accurately. I just got some swatches of the non-grenadine silks, and many of them are entirely matte. For $11 you can get 24 swatches, which translates to a good deal of daydreaming about ties. I have my 2nd set of 24 coming in the mail right now.

I know what you mean. And this is of coursed encouraged in general. But nevertheless, I believe SH ties are more bright/shiny than what I prefer. Compare for example the tie New Shoes1 wore (which is beautiful for suits) with Cappelli's interpretation and you could clearly see that the latter is more dull  Scansione2014-5-210002.jpg 280k .jpg file  Both pictures are real life pictures.

 

Again, this is of course my subjective opinion based on what works for me and my wardrobe. And I fully support the "buy swatches first, ties later"-process, but when comparing between two makers this is not always possible.

post #6049 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

I'm now as confused as Noodles because I looked through some prior pictures and my left shoulder is lower than my right one in most of those pictures as compared with today's where my right shoulder is lower than my left one.  :confused:

Because 99% of postural deviations are not structural in nature. Just muscles tuggin' on your bones unevenly. 

post #6050 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif

its a lovely hober. you kop?
post #6051 of 37395
Formosa kop first I will.
post #6052 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

Formosa kop first I will.

yes.

--

apropos of nothing, i want this in my life so bad.

post #6053 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

I've worn it with a navy blazer, gray pants and a striped shirt of similar scale as the shirt in the picture, but darker blue stripes.  I thought it looked nice.  As for wearing it with odd jackets, I tend to not wear any of my silk neats with odd jackets.

Your post was rather confusing and contradictory until I realized you aren't using "blazer" and "odd jacket" synonymously. That's--pardon the pun--odd. In my mind, "odd jacket" has always meant any jacket that's not part of a suit, e.g. blazer, sport coat, what have you. Semantics, I suppose, but just curious what differentiates them to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

My opinion is that it's not dull enough to be worn with a sport coat. It's to bright I believe, could be your camera/flash though. This is one of the reasons I'm only fond of Sam Hober's grenadines. His other ties tend to be to shiny for my taste. But that is purely conclusion based on the pictures from the website. I had this discussion with Rudals yesterday. For example, here's Cappelli's (Rudal's reference above) interpretation of Macclesfield #134: http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_17&products_id=1737
It is more dull and by that automatically (at least for me since I like to wear dull colors, flannels, worsted etc) more versatile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

I know what you mean. And this is of coursed encouraged in general. But nevertheless, I believe SH ties are more bright/shiny than what I prefer. Compare for example the tie New Shoes1 wore (which is beautiful for suits) with Cappelli's interpretation and you could clearly see that the latter is more dull  Scansione2014-5-210002.jpg 280k .jpg file  Both pictures are real life pictures.

Again, this is of course my subjective opinion based on what works for me and my wardrobe. And I fully support the "buy swatches first, ties later"-process, but when comparing between two makers this is not always possible.

As other have already stated, I don't know how you can conclude solely from the images on the Hober website that his Macclesfield silks are "bright/shiny". My one and only Hober Macclesfield tie is very dry with little to no sheen. Also, when talking about true Macclesfield fabrics from Macclesfield, England (not just neats in general, as the term "Macclesfield" is sometimes used to refer to), I would imagine that many of Hober's and Cappelli's silks are from the same mill.
post #6054 of 37395
Thread Starter 

I don't think there is any definite line between odd jacket and blazer. You could argue that a blazer is a type of odd jacket, in fact. In my mind, though, a blazer is a bit more city than the normal odd jacket fare. More likely to be worsted, unpatterned or subtly patterned. Especially associated with blues (as blues would be the most city of any color normally associated with odd jackets/blazers, with gray being thrown out for the most part)

post #6055 of 37395
A blazer is a type of odd jacket. That said, as Claghorn has already mentioned, it is more citified and (I would add) formal than other typical odd jackets. So things that do not work with most odd jackets can work with navy blazers and vice versa.
post #6056 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evolve View Post

As other have already stated, I don't know how you can conclude solely from the images on the Hober website that his Macclesfield silks are "bright/shiny". My one and only Hober Macclesfield tie is very dry with little to no sheen. Also, when talking about true Macclesfield fabrics from Macclesfield, England (not just neats in general, as the term "Macclesfield" is sometimes used to refer to), I would imagine that many of Hober's and Cappelli's silks are from the same mill.

 

I should say my opinion is not exclusively based on pictures from the website, but also from members' pictures on this forum. With that said, I'm a big fan of Sam Hober ties, I have several grenadine, wool and madder. In fact, his ties are some of my absolute favorites. The sheen/brightness/dullness/dryness is just the impression I get when looking at pictures. I may be wrong, as discussed earlier. Thanks for the info.

post #6057 of 37395

OK, so I went into the SuitSupply store in Shanghai today. Probably a mistake, as I wanted to buy everything in the shop. Nevertheless, I did narrow things down a little.

 

Your opinion please gentlemen on two 3-piece suits, both in the Lazio cut. Now, you have to use your imagination a little, as one of them was not available in my size.

 

Here are the two suits, laid out side by side -

 

 

At left: Lazio 3-piece in sky blue pure linen with DB waistcoat. At right: Lazio 3-piece in steely blue/grey windowpane wool/silk/linen blend with SB waistcoat.

 

Now here's me standing outside with the first suit on -

 

 

And inside the store, under halogen lights -

 

 

Again under halogen, with waistcoat removed -

 

 

Obviously the pents would need hemming (in fact I would most likely ask for 2" cuffs).

 

Finally, so that you can appreciate the difference in cuts of the waistcoats, here is a comparison on the SS website. However, they didn't have the blue suit on their site so at right you can see an identically-cut suit in grey worsted. 

 

 

Prices are identical. Your thoughts please.

post #6058 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

I don't think there is any definite line between odd jacket and blazer. You could argue that a blazer is a type of odd jacket, in fact. In my mind, though, a blazer is a bit more city than the normal odd jacket fare. More likely to be worsted, unpatterned or subtly patterned. Especially associated with blues (as blues would be the most city of any color normally associated with odd jackets/blazers, with gray being thrown out for the most part)

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

A blazer is a type of odd jacket. That said, as Claghorn has already mentioned, it is more citified and (I would add) formal than other typical odd jackets. So things that do not work with most odd jackets can work with navy blazers and vice versa.

 

This.  I distinguished a navy blazer from the general category of odd jackets because of how formal and citified a navy blazer is.  I frequently wear the same shirts and ties with a navy blazer as I do with my suits.  I also wear a navy blazer with gray trousers and a neat tie in the same situations where I might otherwise be in a suit.  The same is not true for my other odd jackets as I tend to wear solid grenadines with them in circumstances where I do not need to be in a suit.

post #6059 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

OK, so I went into the SuitSupply store in Shanghai today. Probably a mistake, as I wanted to buy everything in the shop. Nevertheless, I did narrow things down a little.

Your opinion please gentlemen on two 3-piece suits, both in the Lazio cut. Now, you have to use your imagination a little, as one of them was not available in my size.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here are the two suits, laid out side by side -




At left: Lazio 3-piece in sky blue pure linen with DB waistcoat. At right: Lazio 3-piece in steely blue/grey windowpane wool/silk/linen blend with SB waistcoat.

Now here's me standing outside with the first suit on -




And inside the store, under halogen lights -




Again under halogen, with waistcoat removed -




Obviously the pents would need hemming (in fact I would most likely ask for 2" cuffs).

Finally, so that you can appreciate the difference in cuts of the waistcoats, here is a comparison on the SS website. However, they didn't have the blue suit on their site so at right you can see an identically-cut suit in grey worsted. 




Prices are identical. Your thoughts please.

The jacket's collar isn't sitting very well on your neck. I don't care for vests cut in that horizontal style. If the windowpane fits you like it does the model, don't buy it.
post #6060 of 37395
Thread Starter 

The Lazio fit doesn't work, which is a damn shame as otherwise it looks great on you. Though the idea of a three piece linen is a little off in my mind (I understand when it my be used, but its still an extra layer of fabric in an outfit which uses that fabric for its cool wearing).

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