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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 403

post #6031 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post


- It's the uneven shoulders (Lower right shoulder) causing the bunching. If it's sleeve pitch you will notice pulling near the armpit from the front


Would that cause the bunching? It does look worse on the right from the back.

 

He should check on the left side though as well as it might be bunching up on that side, so a combination. Anyway, if on the left too, probably a pitch issue I would think as well as anything else.

post #6032 of 37396

I'm now as confused as Noodles because I looked through some prior pictures and my left shoulder is lower than my right one in most of those pictures as compared with today's where my right shoulder is lower than my left one.  :confused:

post #6033 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by selvedge8tweed View Post
 

If I may, adding to the discussion

 

1. No one has mentioned sleeve pitch yet, as you're getting bunching on the back arm (tricep).

2. I think gorge height is fine. I like to draw a line from the point of the gorge so that it hits the tie knot. Why go higher?

3. Don't mess with arm holes as that can be perilous. If it's comfortable, leave it. Is your movement restricted (lifting arms, etc.)?

4. On the bunching, I thought you would want to shorten the back rise, as if you detach the waistband from the pants and then pull the back panel up. If you hike up the back of the pants, it might very well straighten out...you might get away with using suspenders then. Try it as a test.

5. Waist is fine. You could drop another inch, but it's not suit supply/j crew high.

6. Many things are quite good though for a first MTM. Shoulders look good, back is fairly clean. Quarters nice. I'm not sure what you mean by balance. Front/Back? That looks ok. Is it catching over your right hip in the back?

 

To my eye, the front is slightly shorter than my back, but my tailor agrees with you.  She also saw no balance issue.

post #6034 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

To my eye, the front is slightly shorter than my back, but my tailor agrees with you.  She also saw no balance issue.


You know, the suit looks pretty good, and most of what you are considering seems to be refinements rather than big changes.

 

I do agree about making sure the trousers have a nice sharp line in the back. Have you tried just pulling up on the back waist band a touch to see if the crease straightens out? Then I think it's probably a rise issue.

 

Also, are you getting sleeve wrinkling on the left side (see Kulata's post above)?

post #6035 of 37396

I just threw in my towel. We can nitpick all we want but no one in real life is going to look at your suit and break it down nor will they even care to. 

 

BUT, they will see that your suit looks awesome and just move on. 

post #6036 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by selvedge8tweed View Post
 


You know, the suit looks pretty good, and most of what you are considering seems to be refinements rather than big changes.

 

I do agree about making sure the trousers have a nice sharp line in the back. Have you tried just pulling up on the back waist band a touch to see if the crease straightens out? Then I think it's probably a rise issue.

 

Also, are you getting sleeve wrinkling on the left side (see Kulata's post above)?

 

The issue resolves if I pull up the waist of the pants on the front side.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

I just threw in my towel. We can nitpick all we want but no one in real life is going to look at your suit and break it down nor will they even care to.

 

BUT, they will see that your suit looks awesome and just move on.

 

Agreed.

:cheers:

post #6037 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

The issue resolves if I pull up the waist of the pants on the front side.

 

Well then, the simplest solution is to wear suspenders rather than belt, to hold your pants exactly in place where the issue resolves.

 

I agree with Rudals: it looks good and nearly everyone will fail to notice any of these niggling issues.

post #6038 of 37396

In light of this thread's love affair with brown neats, thought I'd post a close-up of today's tie from Hober:

 

post #6039 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I just threw in my towel. We can nitpick all we want but no one in real life is going to look at your suit and break it down nor will they even care to. 

BUT, they will see that your suit looks awesome and just move on. 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:
Originally Posted by selvedge8tweed View Post


Would that cause the bunching? It does look worse on the right from the back.

He should check on the left side though as well as it might be bunching up on that side, so a combination. Anyway, if on the left too, probably a pitch issue I would think as well as anything else.

Best thing is to get professional opinion from the "The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions" thread. And i agree, the suit looks good.
Edited by kulata - 5/21/14 at 2:09pm
post #6040 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

In light of this thread's love affair with brown neats, thought I'd post a close-up of today's tie from Hober:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Link please?

I do not wish to do business with that other fellow who was very rude to me. 

That looks very nice. 

post #6041 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

Link please?

I do not wish to do business with that other fellow who was very rude to me.

That looks very nice.

 

It's Macclessfield #134 http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-134.html

post #6042 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

It's Macclessfield #134 http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-134.html

:slayer:

post #6043 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

It's Macclessfield #134 http://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/macclesfield-silk-tie-134.html


It is a nice tie, perfect for your suit. But would people here wear it with an odd navy blazer apropos the exchange I had with @unbelragazzo?

 

The scale is in between the tie he posted and more fine-patterned neats.

post #6044 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by selvedge8tweed View Post
 


It is a nice tie, perfect for your suit. But would people here wear it with an odd navy blazer apropos the exchange I had with @unbelragazzo?

 

The scale is in between the tie he posted and more fine-patterned neats.

 

I've worn it with a navy blazer, gray pants and a striped shirt of similar scale as the shirt in the picture, but darker blue stripes.  I thought it looked nice.  As for wearing it with odd jackets, I tend to not wear any of my silk neats with odd jackets.

post #6045 of 37396

My opinion is that it's not dull enough to be worn with a sport coat. It's to bright I believe, could be your camera/flash though. This is one of the reasons I'm only fond of Sam Hober's grenadines. His other ties tend to be to shiny for my taste. But that is purely conclusion based on the pictures from the website. I had this discussion with Rudals yesterday. For example, here's Cappelli's (Rudal's reference above) interpretation of Macclesfield #134: http://www.patriziocappelli.it/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_17&products_id=1737

It is more dull and by that automatically (at least for me since I like to wear dull colors, flannels, worsted etc) more versatile.

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