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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 402

post #6016 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

With apologies for the crappy lighting, here's a pic of C&J dark brown and C&J chestnut side by side paired with navy trousers.  I like the chestnut color better, and really like the way that this pair has aged - as DonRaphael indicated the he was planning on doing with his Westbournes, these have seen some black polish, but they're definitely more "noticable" when you wear them.  



I agree with you that my chestnut shoes also ages better than my brown calf in term of color. Great looking shoes btw, both the Lowndes and Selbourne.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post

One on the right is giving me a funny feeling below my waist. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

The fact that the "thing" generating the funny feeling is depicted in the medallion might have something to do with it.. smile.gif
post #6017 of 37396
i like that tie, clags, and i think it would be great with your lighter than navy wrinkly suit. im sure you will find the right shirt, perhaps white or just the right blue. you have enough ties in your arsenal to kop one that you love even if its use will be limited.
post #6018 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

5.  This is the default 3.5 inch lapel.

It's all about proportion. For example, this is a 3.5 inch lapel on me:

 

 

Also. PSA:

 

DonRaphael will offer beautiful ties for sale, and when you message him, he'll decide to keep it for some silly reason along the lines of "I was going to get the same in a wider width, but Cappelli said they were out of the fabric." Can you believe the gumption!? Major. Tease. :fu:


Edited by Claghorn - 5/21/14 at 8:44am
post #6019 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

The fact that the "thing" generating the funny feeling is depicted in the medallion might have something to do with it.. smile.gif

thats hilarious!
post #6020 of 37396

Thanks for the helpful comments everyone.  For what it's worth, you've convinced me to go with the wide lapel option this time.

post #6021 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
 
38x38px-ZC-7758a775_johnow5.gif
luv2breformed
Today at 6:33 am

So I'll get 0520. Can you guys recommend a tobacco brownish for the same concept? Which one if so? Also a flannel F/W equivalent?

Thanks!!

From a PM, but I thought it could be used here. L2B is looking to pick up some fabric from Hardy Minnis. Alright, Thread, do your thang.

https://shop.hfwltd.com/

 

For your lightweight: Chelsea 102735

 

I have the same in blue, waiting to be made up. Very lightweight (280g)

 

 

For your F/W: Flannel 0341

post #6022 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

It's all about proportion. For example, this is a 3.5 inch lapel on me:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Also. PSA:

DonRaphael will offer beautiful ties for sale, and when you message him, he'll decide to keep it for some silly reason along the lines of "I was going to get the same in a wider width, but Cappelli said they were out of the fabric." Can you believe the gumption!? Major. Tease. ffffuuuu.gif
What's the width of the widest point of that tie?
post #6023 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Thanks for the helpful comments everyone.  For what it's worth, you've convinced me to go with the wide lapel option this time.

I really like that suit and the suggestions are pretty small ones. I think you'll get good wear out of that one and the next one will be nearly perfect for ya. Let us know if you do pull the trigger.
post #6024 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post


What's the width of the widest point of that tie?


3.75. It's the widest I'll go. I generally prefer 3.25-3.5, but the nice thing about having as many ties as I have is that you can afford to have a few a bit outside your preferred range. In the case of that tie, I'm definitely glad it's wide. It expands far satisfyingly after the knot. However, it's certainly not something I could wear with anything with smaller lapels (I have many lapels which are 3 inches). I originally bought it to be worn with my double breasted jacket.

post #6025 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


3.75. It's the widest I'll go. I generally prefer 3.25-3.5, but the nice thing about having as many ties as I have is that you can afford to have a few a bit outside your preferred range. In the case of that tie, I'm definitely glad it's wide. It expands far satisfyingly after the knot. However, it's certainly not something I could wear with anything with smaller lapels (I have many lapels which are 3 inches). I originally bought it to be worn with my double breasted jacket.

I like the tie and wide ties in general.

I love what I have seen on liverano with his 4.5 inch plus ties wider than his lapels

tumblr_mu6vo2pTf71qad1efo1_r1_1280.jpg





The most important question is, where to Kop? Need a red tie with visual interest with enough personality to match 4q lapels

PS: Wide ties isn't for everybody. I just have a preference for bold styling
post #6026 of 37396
Thread Starter 

A little known company. Doubt you heard of it. Kind of picking up some press on the indie scene, though I hope they don't sell out. Brooks Brothers.

post #6027 of 37396
i dont think i own any ties wider than than 3.5, maybe 3.6, but nothing 3.75.
post #6028 of 37396

I have a 4 inch cashmere tie that I wear with DB suits/jackets, but most are between 3.25 and 3.5. I prefer the 3.5 inch ties, but 3.25 is much easier to find at the moment.

post #6029 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

Okay, my 7 year old obliged, and I have better pictures today.  As I said previously, I'm looking to order my 2nd MTM suit from Kent Wang and value the opinions of the regular posters in this thread, so let me know if you see any issues I should modify for the next order.  As of now, I'm thining about:  (i) lengthening the sleeves 0.25 inches; (ii) talking with Kent about lowering the button point to conform more with my natural waist; (iii) shortening the back to address a slight balance issue from my posture; and (iv) raising the arm holes a small amount.  I'm also thinking about trying the roped shoulder option because I've come to like how that looks with some of my other jackets.  Let me know if anyone else has any additional thoughts.

 

If I may, adding to the discussion

 

1. No one has mentioned sleeve pitch yet, as you're getting bunching on the back arm (tricep).

2. I think gorge height is fine. I like to draw a line from the point of the gorge so that it hits the tie knot. Why go higher?

3. Don't mess with arm holes as that can be perilous. If it's comfortable, leave it. Is your movement restricted (lifting arms, etc.)?

4. On the bunching, I thought you would want to shorten the back rise, as if you detach the waistband from the pants and then pull the back panel up. If you hike up the back of the pants, it might very well straighten out...you might get away with using suspenders then. Try it as a test.

5. Waist is fine. You could drop another inch, but it's not suit supply/j crew high.

6. Many things are quite good though for a first MTM. Shoulders look good, back is fairly clean. Quarters nice. I'm not sure what you mean by balance. Front/Back? That looks ok. Is it catching over your right hip in the back?

post #6030 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by selvedge8tweed View Post

If I may, adding to the discussion

1. No one has mentioned sleeve pitch yet, as you're getting bunching on the back arm (tricep).

- It's the uneven shoulders (Lower right shoulder) causing the bunching. If it's sleeve pitch you will notice pulling near the armpit from the front
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