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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 330

post #4936 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

I think I prefer the NOBD1 as a good substitute to BD collars especially if its minimally lined and tall (1.75 inches collar band height, YMMV). Another option you should consider is a one piece collar like the corneliani one I am wearing below. I just sent it off to luxire for replication
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_00000075mod.jpg

Too spread IMHO
post #4937 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Too spread IMHO
I love spread collars.

@luv2breformed why don't you just increase the collar band height by say 0.25 inches on the NOBD2?
post #4938 of 37395
Thread Starter 

a) NOBD 2 is a winner for what you are looking for. Maybe a bit more height?

 

b) Just ordered fabric for my next B&T. I've had two fittings so far for the fresco; I think I have the forward fitting next week and I should need to wait another week or so after that. First suit I had made had 3 basted and 2 forward fittings. This jacket looks to have 2 basted and 1 forward. Don't know about the next one. Hopefully just a single basted and a single forward. I want them to get my pattern down perfectly before I leave Seoul.

 

Anyway, the fabric, 8oz houndstooth:

 

post #4939 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

What does everyone think of the NOBD 2 collar?

 

Specifically I'm looking for a collar that is moderate spread and would be appropriate as a substitute for the many BD collars I have been procuring (ie very casual). Something that looks at home with casual fabrics.

 

Also, I really like taller collars and sometimes I feel that collars with too much spread make the collar height seem shorter. This is something I'd like to avoid.


NOBD 2:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Any other recommendations? Thanks!

 

I've got the NOBD2, but it's too short for my liking. Too much of your neck is exposed and the collar points barely reach under the jacket. Remember to increase collar point length if you're increasing collar band height.

 

The Barba collar in the Luxire googledoc looks better, I'm giving that one a try next. Don't forget to specify whether you want lining/fusing, even if you reference order numbers. 

post #4940 of 37395
I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO
post #4941 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO

post #4942 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

 

the collar points barely reach under the jacket.

 

This sounds perfect. :P (I'm exaggerating, but I really don't want to do too much spread for how casual I dress)

 

Would collar point to band height be a 1:1 ratio? I.E. if I increase collar height by .25" I should specify collar points lengthened by .25"? Also, would you do lightly lined and unfused for what I'm going for?

post #4943 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO

We have to agree to disagree on that one. I even prefer unbuttoned spread collars to BD collars, which is a collar i hated in the past but warmed up to it recently. Most definitely due to SF influence.
post #4944 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

This sounds perfect. :P (I'm exaggerating, but I really don't want to do too much spread for how casual I dress)

Would collar point to band height be a 1:1 ratio? I.E. if I increase collar height by .25" I should specify collar points lengthened by .25"? Also, would you do lightly lined and unfused for what I'm going for?

I suspect Pythagoras may have something to say about that.

But really, it depends on how happy you are with where your current points fall relative to your jacket lapels.
post #4945 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

 

I've got the NOBD2, but it's too short for my liking. Too much of your neck is exposed and the collar points barely reach under the jacket. Remember to increase collar point length if you're increasing collar band height.

 

The Barba collar in the Luxire googledoc looks better, I'm giving that one a try next. Don't forget to specify whether you want lining/fusing, even if you reference order numbers. 

Is that Spandexter's Barba collar or the #1738 collar?

post #4946 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

What does everyone think of the NOBD 2 collar?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Specifically I'm looking for a collar that is moderate spread and would be appropriate as a substitute for the many BD collars I have been procuring (ie very casual). Something that looks at home with casual fabrics.

Also, I really like taller collars and sometimes I feel that collars with too much spread make the collar height seem shorter. This is something I'd like to avoid.

NOBD 2:




Any other recommendations? Thanks!

for this more casual look, i think that is the perfect collar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Anyway, the fabric, 8oz houndstooth:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


vurr nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I like spread collars, but they look terrible unbuttoned IMHO

do you mean that you think all spread collars should be BD?
post #4947 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


I suspect Pythagoras may have something to say about that.

But really, it depends on how happy you are with where your current points fall relative to your jacket lapels.

 

Pythagoras didnt care because his beard always covered his collar. :rimshot:

post #4948 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

do you mean that you think all spread collars should be BD?

No I mean spread collars should be worn with a tie. A spread collar button-down sounds kind of weird and probably awful.
post #4949 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

No I mean spread collars should be worn with a tie. A spread collar button-down sounds kind of weird and probably awful.

ah, i think i would agree with that until i see a picture that proves otherwise.
post #4950 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

ah, i think i would agree with that until i see a picture that proves otherwise.

Gdl and timo have some I think. I made two shirts like that last year and they look amazing to me.
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