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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 329

post #4921 of 37395
Looks like the Lazio. Fit is very good for RTW, but the jacket looks too short. Is this a L-size already?

Brown Suede Loafers, Double Monks or Captoe-Oxfords will work.
post #4922 of 37395
The jacket is short but not too short, I think the shortness is exacerbated by his longer than normal reach (wingspan).
Edited by kulata - 4/28/14 at 3:33am
post #4923 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

At this point, I won't buy anything but ties and squares on eBay. Measurements too risky a game, especially living overseas.

Random side note that won't appear in the interview but is nevertheless sort of interesting. The first incarnation of B&T went out of business in 1997 due to the IMF financial crisis. After that, the owner prayed and he says God told him to volunteer. He went to a couple of ministers and offered to make their suits at cost. Word got around, and he ended up making a ton of suits for a ton of ministers. He was then contacted by a baseball team to make suits for the entire team. That publicity was enough to get B&T back on its feet. 

wait. so if offer to make some fancy minister people some free suits, then in time i will become a #menswear legend?
post #4924 of 37395

Some Henry Carter ties incoming! Wll in a few weeks until one is restocked. :lol:

post #4925 of 37395
Stitchy, can you cut and sew? I think those abilities might be required.
post #4926 of 37395
um, kind of.
post #4927 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by timotune View Post

Looks like the Lazio. Fit is very good for RTW, but the jacket looks too short. Is this a L-size already?

Brown Suede Loafers, Double Monks or Captoe-Oxfords will work.

 

Thanks so much to you, Claghorn, and kulata for all of your comments.  I really, really appreciate your guys' thoughts on shoe options and had no idea about a shoe <-> tie color connection.  

 

I'm also frankly impressed you are able to identify the name of the jacket just by looking.  Yes, I think it is the Lazio, and it is a 38L (my arms are pretty lanky).

 

On length, in the future something 1" or 2" longer would also be appropriate? I know you want to cover your behind and that something too short looks like a woman's jacket.  And you're also maybe trying to figure out the aesthetic balance between having a long leg line and a long torso line?

 

I was just looking at pictures to try and train my eye to assimilate a sense of this.  So I had thought this looked very good, but the jackets, for example, might be a bit too short, unless you're following a more fashionable look.  Maybe?

 

post #4928 of 37395
Thread Starter 

Aye. Those look like women's jackets too me. At this point, if the jacket barely covers your ass, you'll not look out of date while at the same time not looking so trendy that you'll look out of date in the next year or two. So given the current trend, you best bet is to get as short as possible without stepping into girl jacket territory.

 

It is possible for a too short jacket to look good provided you have the right body. The right body being a flat ass and narrow hips. Otherwise, it will not flatter your body type

post #4929 of 37395
post #4930 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeppopotamus View Post

 

Thanks so much to you, Claghorn, and kulata for all of your comments.  I really, really appreciate your guys' thoughts on shoe options and had no idea about a shoe <-> tie color connection.  

 

I'm also frankly impressed you are able to identify the name of the jacket just by looking.  Yes, I think it is the Lazio, and it is a 38L (my arms are pretty lanky).

 

On length, in the future something 1" or 2" longer would also be appropriate? I know you want to cover your behind and that something too short looks like a woman's jacket.  And you're also maybe trying to figure out the aesthetic balance between having a long leg line and a long torso line?

 

I was just looking at pictures to try and train my eye to assimilate a sense of this.  So I had thought this looked very good, but the jackets, for example, might be a bit too short, unless you're following a more fashionable look.  Maybe?

 

 



Well, I suppose it's stating the bleeding obvious, but... Seems to me the entire blame for this lamentable current trend towards pre-shrunk jackets and visible ankle hair can be laid entirely at the brogue-shod feet of Thom Browne.



I thought this look was kinda "cute" when he first launched it around '06. Never for a moment did I think such an inherently ridiculous fashion concept could go mainstream. But it has.

Avoid, Mr Elephantiasis. Avoid with extreme prejudice.
post #4931 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

[...]

It is possible for a too short jacket to look good provided you have the right body. The right body being a flat ass and narrow hips. Otherwise, it will not flatter your body type

 

Yes.  I would add that it helps if you have shorter arms.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #4932 of 37395

What does everyone think of the NOBD 2 collar?

 

Specifically I'm looking for a collar that is moderate spread and would be appropriate as a substitute for the many BD collars I have been procuring (ie very casual). Something that looks at home with casual fabrics.

 

Also, I really like taller collars and sometimes I feel that collars with too much spread make the collar height seem shorter. This is something I'd like to avoid.

 

NOBD 2:

 

 

Any other recommendations? Thanks!

post #4933 of 37395
That one's too short IMHO.
post #4934 of 37395
I think I prefer the NOBD1 as a good substitute to BD collars especially if its minimally lined and tall (1.75 inches collar band height, YMMV). Another option you should consider is a one piece collar like the corneliani one I am wearing below. I just sent it off to luxire for replication

IMG_00000075mod.jpg
post #4935 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

That one's too short IMHO.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

I think I prefer the NOBD1 as a good substitute to BD collars especially if its minimally lined and tall (1.75 inches collar band height, YMMV). Another option you should consider is a one piece collar like the corneliani one I am wearing below. I just sent it off to luxire for replication
 

 

I tend to agree on it being too short. Any taller recommendations?

 

I feel like the NOBD1 has too much spread for me. I really like the idea of a one piece collar, but I tend to think I would get that as a BD as well. I'm not sure if it would be different enough from my Kamakura's, though I certainly want some in the future.

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