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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 296

post #4426 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post

Doesn't the drop have to do with trouser size?

On suits, it's the difference between the chest size and pants size.

But for a jacket, I use "drop" as a synonym for how slim the torso and waist of the jacket is cut. You seem to have a more athetic build. Don't try to shoehorn yourself into a slim jacket like the Cantarelli. It doesn't suit your frame, and there won't be enough material to let out.
post #4427 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

@jungleroller
 
Why not check it out and see for yourself, just like I went and checked out SS. 
I am in the same boat as JRD. Those jackets look REALLY narrow at the waist. 
Maybe it's just because they're for display. 
And I'd check out NMWA for suits too. 

You guys realize the jacket will be made to measure right? These are not off the rack. The template pics were just references for fabric. Nothing more.
post #4428 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

Here is an option from NMWA, in an open weave fabric (hopsack type):

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/clothing/sport-coats/navy-basketweave-wool-cotton-cashmere-blazer.html

It's on sale too devil.gif

Tried Cantarelli. Way too short for me. Too narrow in the waist also.

JRD it's not so much an athletic build but I appreciate the kind words biggrin.gif
post #4429 of 37395
@jrd617 What makes those Jackets shit? The options as presented? Not sure if you saw the link I posted with all their options that I have to choose from. http://static.squarespace.com/static/5048f0d5c4aa4849b689ff37/t/51ba0749e4b034d82d5470c9/1371146057865/DesignBook_2013.pdf
post #4430 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Jungalo, those SC's look like crap. And 600 bucks? run away

Better off taking that 600 and buying OTR in a quality brand. There's plenty of navy blazers in your size on the net.

Also, with your build, I think you want to avoid to slim fashion forward sihlouette of Suit Supply and Proper Suit and Cantarelli.

Try Borrelli or Corneliani or Caruso. They have more standard drops ("drop 6" rather than "drop 7 or 8"), and normal lengths

 

I've tried several corneliani items on several occasions, but I none if their trousers fit, and I'm not even that athletic. Anyone who has ever done squatz will not not fit their trousers. They're slimmer than suitsupply.

 

Caruso makes very nice stuff, and doesn't fit as slim as the aforementioned brands. Unfortunately, it's quite pricey at retail. 

post #4431 of 37395
Where did you get linked to this proper suit company from? Color me skeptical. These online tailors don't give me a lot of confidence. Proper suit, Indochino, Suit Supply. The brick and mortar stores tend to be manned by people who don't know about fit.

Plus, if their house style is slim like that, best to avoid altogether. I don't have the confidence that they can pull off a fuller cut jacket. But it's your 600 to spend biggrin.gif

I'd rather get a great OTR jacket from a reliable Italian maker and take it to a good tailor. Zegna, Canali, Corneliani, Borrelli, Caruso etc. are all VERY consistant in quality. The jackets are usually well balanced. Cut can vary a lot, but if you know your measurements, you can account for that
post #4432 of 37395
A staple navy jacket in any of the aforementioned brands will run into the thousands except you have a way of making it happen and I'll be very interested. :-)

@jungleroller, have you considered edmorel? I have no clue what he charges, but the stuff he has made for in stitches seems outstanding and of course he is a very knowledgeable member here.
post #4433 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

A staple navy jacket in any of the aforementioned brands will run into the thousands except you have a way of making it happen and I'll be very interested. :-)

It's called fleabay/B&S biggrin.gif
post #4434 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Jungalo, those SC's look like crap. And 600 bucks? run away

Better off taking that 600 and buying OTR in a quality brand. There's plenty of navy blazers in your size on the net.

Also, with your build, I think you want to avoid to slim fashion forward sihlouette of Suit Supply and Proper Suit and Cantarelli.

Try Borrelli or Corneliani or Caruso. They have more standard drops ("drop 6" rather than "drop 7 or 8"), and normal lengths

 

Sorry, JRD, but this advice seems knee jerk in nature.  I love my Corneliani jackets and can say without any equivocation that the MTM suit I got from this same factory (via Kent Wang MTM) is every bit as nice as my Corneliani's and E. Zegna's, except that it fits much better than my jackets from either maker.  It was also only $750 at the time, so I would not "run away" if the jacket alone is $600.

 

I don't see the harm in JR going at looking at the jackets.  If the house patterns for MTM are all ultra slim/modern, then I agree walk away and try something else.  Same goes if the base fabrics they are quoting at $600 look like shit and the nicer priced fabrics are way over priced.  I suspect, however, that JR is going to get a MTM jacket every bit as nice as a Corneliani for somewhere in the $600- $900 range.

post #4435 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Where did you get linked to this proper suit company from? Color me skeptical. These online tailors don't give me a lot of confidence. Proper suit, Indochino, Suit Supply. The brick and mortar stores tend to be manned by people who don't know about fit.

Plus, if their house style is slim like that, best to avoid altogether. I don't have the confidence that they can pull off a fuller cut jacket. But it's your 600 to spend biggrin.gif

I'd rather get a great OTR jacket from a reliable Italian maker and take it to a good tailor. Zegna, Canali, Corneliani, Borrelli, Caruso etc. are all VERY consistant in quality. The jackets are usually well balanced. Cut can vary a lot, but if you know your measurements, you can
account for that

I've run into them before on the net but didn't pay much mind until New Shoes mentioned to try them because they have a local location and I can do an in store meeting and measuring and viewing of fabrics. The two owners are I believe the owners of Hall & Madden Shirts.

If I were so inclined where would I go to get an OTR option for those makers?
post #4436 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

A staple navy jacket in any of the aforementioned brands will run into the thousands except you have a way of making it happen and I'll be very interested. :-)

@jungleroller, have you considered edmorel? I have no clue what he charges, but the stuff he has made for in stitches seems outstanding and of course he is a very knowledgeable member here.

He's the Panta guy right? I have yes but if I'm not mistaken he's in NY. Test fits would involve back and forth shipping and rely on me knowing whats wrong or where to adjust the jacket. Or very heavily on pictures so he would dial it in. That's the whole reason I'm doing this is because they're local. I'm open to any local suggestions though. He did amazing work with Sticheys DB but I have a feeling his quality is something down the road for me.
post #4437 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Where did you get linked to this proper suit company from? Color me skeptical. These online tailors don't give me a lot of confidence. Proper suit, Indochino, Suit Supply. The brick and mortar stores tend to be manned by people who don't know about fit.

Plus, if their house style is slim like that, best to avoid altogether. I don't have the confidence that they can pull off a fuller cut jacket. But it's your 600 to spend biggrin.gif

I'd rather get a great OTR jacket from a reliable Italian maker and take it to a good tailor. Zegna, Canali, Corneliani, Borrelli, Caruso etc. are all VERY consistant in quality. The jackets are usually well balanced. Cut can vary a lot, but if you know your measurements, you can account for that

I believe Suit Supply is pretty legit based on the fact that a lot of SF members either recommending or donning them. I, personally, was very displeased with the DC store. 

Jungleroller can do whatever he wants but I think we're just looking out for his best interest. 

But I think he should give this or SS a try because MTM at any other place will be quite expensive. 

I am lucky enough to throw on a RTW Zegna  and be fine(subjective opinion), but I think Jungleroller's build requires MTM. 

post #4438 of 37395
btw JRD I appreciate any insight here I'm not throwing anyones opinion or advice out the door. Just weighing my options.
post #4439 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post


I've run into them before on the net but didn't pay much mind until New Shoes mentioned to try them because they have a local location and I can do an in store meeting and measuring and viewing of fabrics. The two owners are I believe the owners of Hall & Madden Shirts.

If I were so inclined where would I go to get an OTR option for those makers?

 

Here's @pocketsquareguy 's review of Proper Suit.  http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/post/56694083116/proper-suit-jacket-review-by-gus   As I said, I have no experience with the company, but thought the posts advising to run away were a little extreme and knee-jerk in nature.

 

On finding a NWT staple blazer or suit from Corneliani/Canali/E. Zegna for the same price on EBay or B&S, I drank that Kool-Aid when I first joined Style Forum and checked EBay and B&S daily for more than a year before I realized I would never find a solid staple suit from any of those three makers that was NWT, in my size and under $1,000.  Stripes and other patterns, yes.  Seasonal jackets and suits, yes as well.  Solid staples, no, not happening.  I do love EBay and B&S for sport coats from those same makers, but that's a different story.

post #4440 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

but I think Jungleroller's build requires MTM. 

Why does it require MTM? Could it be that he's buying jackets that are too slim to begin with?

Also, I just don't think the sales associate at a place like Suit Supply is going to be good at fitting a jacket. In all likelihood, he's going to be some guy they basically hired off the street. Certainly no training in the bespoke craft

Department store/retail store associates don't understand a lot about fit.

Even I don't understand a lot about fit. Best to find a good tailor you can trust.

From Manton's book
Quote:
[Good fit] derive from the virtue of the tailor, men with knowledge of how clothes must fit and the skill to assure that they do. Not all tailors have both, and some have neither, especially those employed at department stores. The best bespoke tailors understand and can accomodate the most arcane aspects of fit, which are too complex and subtle to be discussed here.
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