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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 294

post #4396 of 37365


post #4397 of 37365
Avatar material?
post #4398 of 37365
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Thanks umbel.

I can see the difference, and am just wondering whether it matters (I'm not a tailor either). I'd like to understand the issue more. You raised it because of balance, but are the two really correlated? Manton had an old thread discussing this somewhere, and I was surprised that it isn't, indeed not primarily, a back front length issue (i.e. that they should always be equidistant from the ground). Manton's point, I think, was that issues of balance are really about the right amount of fabric being cut to deal with a shape (e.g. if one slouches forward or has protruding blades). So, a sign of imbalance is often the quarters, say their being very open or very closed when coat is buttoned. The quarters on Mr. Six's coat looked ok to me.

I'll try to find that link.

The quarters being open or closed is a symptom of the general problem of the fabric not hanging straight, which, as you say, is a little more subtle than just the hems ending at the same height. Here's a jefferyd point that makes this point using a patterned jacket:


I'm using the darts as kind of a stand-in for pinstripes. And they do converge towards the bottom of the jacket, as you can see by drawing a square with the width equal to the distance between the dart tops:

It could be that the jacket is tailored in such a way that the darts aren't supposed to fall straight, I don't know. But that would also mean that if it were a patterned jacket the pattern would look a little bit off I think.

The problem is not severe on this jacket; the darts don't converge that much, and it doesn't look bad overall. But while we're trying to nitpick it, might as well mention this.
post #4399 of 37365

It's caused here by the very erect posture - you can see that clearly in the profile picture, his upper back/shoulders are way back.   Now the question for Mr Six is whether the posture pictured is his natural posture or is he standing particularly straight for the purpose of pictures.   One of the hardest things to do when getting fitted for a garment or alterations, is to stand in one's natural posture.  Most men stand much more erect when in front of a mirror, and then end up altering a garment for a posture that is not really theirs.   Next time you are at the tailor, walk around the room a little, relax, shake your arms a bit and go in front of the mirror as if there was no mirror - try to be as natural as possible.  That's when the fit/alterations will be best.

post #4400 of 37365
Excellent point.
post #4401 of 37365
Tweedy Prof. I'm not trying to go too baller on ties but having 3-5 nice ones I think is good. Unfortunately I also have to step up my Sport Coat and Trousers game. I'm going to make an appt at SS in Chicago and maybe try one of their mtm sport coats. My lack of luck with SC is frustrating me.

@Pliny Where can I get those Cappelli's lined?

Have you guys ever purchased any ties from Fort Belvedere - Gentlemens Gazette?


They're running a promo where you spend $100 get a free white linen PS.

post #4402 of 37365

JR:  I would investigate Proper Suit for a MTM jacket as well.  I have not tried them, but @pocketsquareguy gave them a good review.  They now have a Chicago location where you can look through the fabrics and get measured/fitted in person.  I think they use the same company in China as Kent Wang for the actual manufacture of the suits and jackets.

post #4403 of 37365
jungalo can we get a group picture of the ties you've picked up recently?
post #4404 of 37365
I'll check into that. I ran across their website before but didn't dive into it too much as I had gone mtm suit before and it didn't turn out well. It was my fault due to measurements but if they're in Chicago maybe I'll talk to them. Thanks!
post #4405 of 37365
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

jungalo can we get a group picture of the ties you've picked up recently?

I can do that when I get home possibly. In the mean time I can show them individually.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
yves saint laurent vintage ebay

Holiday & Brown

Holiday & Brown - (navy with green)

Bloomingdales vintage ebay - navy with red

Hober grenadine

Hober grenadine

I believe you've seen my suit supply ties

I have yet to wear those last three ^^

Tie bar ties

Your Marinella

Conrad Wu

Most recent ebay pickups

Holiday & Brown


Mila Schon

This Cappelli on its way

That's about 80% of my ties, but thats all I can get pictures of until I get home from work.
post #4406 of 37365
Those two Hober Gren' are stand out for me Jung nod[1].gif
post #4407 of 37365
Originally Posted by Cleav View Post

Those two Hober Gren' are stand out for me Jung nod[1].gif


I had the exact same reaction with the Conrad Wu and Cappelli coming in right behind.  My other thought was to lose the Bloomingdales tie and the Suit Supply ties.

post #4408 of 37365
Very nice stuffs.

You seem to favor neats and medallions in darker color.

May I suggest checking out some striped ties next? Also, need a navy pindot or black pindot
post #4409 of 37365
The two Hobers are great, Jungleroller. I'd suggest adding a solid burgundy tie of some sort (looked like your Hober was brown), a navy / midnight grenadine, something in dark blue and/or burgundy with pindots, either a wedding tie or something else in the silver / grey range and a black grenadine. You may have some of these of something similar not pictured, but those are some thoughts.
post #4410 of 37365


"I is highly recommending this two ties here~"

VANDA (Click to show)




DRAKE (Click to show)
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