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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 293

post #4381 of 37403
Thread Starter 
Sleeves and shoulder look good there. I wonder if it may also atem from wearing a true 3 as a 3 roll 2
post #4382 of 37403

I think I just have my arm out more in the wrong shoulder pic. 

post #4383 of 37403

That's the same jacket when you were thinner? Looks fine there, though again, I advocate for less cuff and so you should have the sleeves lengthened. I prefer 0.25-0.5 inch and I'm guessing that's an inch or so. And loosen that top button!

 

It could be a divot in the new pics. My understanding is that a divot is caused by the arm hole not being wide enough to accommodate the body there which distorts the hole and leads to the distortion. So, I suppose extra weight could do it. It could also just be the way the fabric drapes, which isn't a divot but still something less than desirable.

 

Please report back from Fields what the explanation is. Engineering of garments is not something I understand as well as I would like, and I'm sure almost everyone in this thread would learn from it. Damn, do a video of him explaining it, and post it!

post #4384 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Sleeves and shoulder look good there. I wonder if it may also atem from wearing a true 3 as a 3 roll 2


I'm not sure that will do it, but this is the source of what I know and it is worth reading (including many other things in that thread)

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686570

 

I suspect if you went to your jacket shoulder now and pushed on it gently from front to back, distorting the hole, you'd see a divot start to form? Just a guess, prediction based on what JeffryD says there.

post #4385 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

Yes, it is the same suit. 
I think it is a combination of my stance/posture and my weight gain. 
I'll try to relax a bit next time I wear this jacket. 

Rudals, I have this problem on all of my jackets to one degree or another. I have been researching on this and with some help from the tailors (OTCtailor, jefferyd, Despos), I have learned that this problem is often caused by tightness over your shoulder blades pulling at the armhole. I bet if you tried to relax your shoulder blades a bit, you would see an improvement.

Armhole shape and sleeve-head relative to armhole can also be issues. Despos told me that the fix for me was to have the sleeve-head re-cut and attached on nearly all of my jackets, some more than others. =\

Hope this helps.
post #4386 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post


Thanks, yeah all of this seasons ties are 8.5cm. I'll probably do some 9cm in the near future as well.


HC, that's great. I've admired your ties from "afar". 8cm is often reported as 3.25 inches in stores here, but it is actually slight less (as you know), and with cutting allowances can drift to 3 inches in blade width which is for me too narrow. 8.5 is for me minimum as it's just between 3.25 and 3.5 inches in width and that's the sweet spot for my build. 9 cm is great too, though the upper bound (3.54 inches)

post #4387 of 37403

It could be the result of many things. But it did not exist when I was at Field, hence, Will not pointing this out. 

I've gained a lot of weight.

I've gained a good amount of muscles around the shoulders and the arms (tri/bicep). 

...and I am fat. 

post #4388 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

It could be the result of many things. But it did not exist when I was at Field, hence, Will not pointing this out. 

I've gained a lot of weight.

I've gained a good amount of muscles around the shoulders and the arms (tri/bicep). 

...and I am fat. 

Which I suppose is the telling thing. As I said earlier, it might just be a function of how you are standing when taking the shot, and is smooth as you move around or stand in a certain way. I think a true divot will not have those properties.

 

So, I think the subject can be dropped. You understand the issues now.

 

I'm just psyched Henry Carter is widening some of his ties a touch!

post #4389 of 37403

Drop the SHOULDER DIVOT SUBJECT.

 

I usually play around with 3.5" width, give or take 1/4" or so. 

post #4390 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

Drop the SHOULDER DIVOT SUBJECT.

 

I usually play around with 3.5" width, give or take 1/4" or so. 


Um, make sure the 0.25 inchs is always taken less than more.

post #4391 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post



Again I'm not a tailor, but see how the dart isn't perpendicular to the ground? That's an indication to me that the front isn't falling straight as it should. Here's a dart falling straight:
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Thanks umbel.

 

I can see the difference, and am just wondering whether it matters (I'm not a tailor either). I'd like to understand the issue more. You raised it because of balance, but are the two really correlated? Manton had an old thread discussing this somewhere, and I was surprised that it isn't, indeed not primarily, a back front length issue (i.e. that they should always be equidistant from the ground). Manton's point, I think, was that issues of balance are really about the right amount of fabric being cut to deal with a shape (e.g. if one slouches forward or has protruding blades). So, a sign of imbalance is often the quarters, say their being very open or very closed when coat is buttoned. The quarters on Mr. Six's coat looked ok to me.

 

I'll try to find that link.

post #4392 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

I'm truly beginning to believe Gianni is a troll.

 

:lol:

 

TROOLOLOLOLOL! 

 

post #4393 of 37403
^

ffffuuuu.gif
post #4394 of 37403

troll-dance-o.gif

post #4395 of 37403
This looks like it could be the cover to the album for a Christian rock band...
Quote:
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