SS is very tight fit, so you probably need a 42 in that case
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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 290post #4337 of 376724/13/14 at 7:06amQuote:
No question Kent has a great eye for fit issues and made some suggestions that I never would have thought of. I did find, though, that I had to veto some suggestions as they were going towards a more slim, modern fit than I was looking for. While we can direct Noodles on the issues, I wonder if he knows precisely what he wants as a finished result.post #4338 of 376724/13/14 at 7:59amQuote:Originally Posted by jrd617
Well how are you guys feeling the kama's?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)I need a blue gingham BD.
Also, I find that oxford to be very unique. It's sort of a mottled grey and blue.
Most blue Kama oxford cloths look like this
vs what i picked up
both nice. top would be good with a SC and tie, bottom looks too saturated for that, id wear it as a casual shirt only, no tie, and probably no SC.Quote:
do not agree. i hate wrinkles personally, but i see nothing wrong with clags wrinkly blue suits. i actually quite like them.post #4339 of 376724/13/14 at 8:34am
I do not understand why Zegna decided to make such an unconventional suit but here it is. My b@stard child suit. The lapels, as pointed out many times in the forum, is too narrow for a peak lapel. My innovative brain says let's nip it and make it into a notch lapel jacket and turn it into a conventional suit. Any thoughts on this?post #4340 of 376724/13/14 at 9:16ampost #4341 of 376724/13/14 at 9:18amThread Starterpost #4342 of 376724/13/14 at 9:22ampost #4343 of 376724/13/14 at 9:26amQuote:Originally Posted by New Shoes1
No question Kent has a great eye for fit issues and made some suggestions that I never would have thought of. I did find, though, that I had to veto some suggestions as they were going towards a more slim, modern fit than I was looking for. While we can direct Noodles on the issues, I wonder if he knows precisely what he wants as a finished result.
Definitely have to figure out what you want before you venture into MTM. I know what I need/want, but I still listened to Aaron's recommendations. I have high hopes...we shall see.post #4344 of 376724/13/14 at 9:32amQuote:
I think you will be pleased. I'm going back for a second suit and the only significant alteration I am considering is lowering the button point.post #4345 of 376724/13/14 at 10:06ampost #4346 of 376724/13/14 at 11:18amQuote:
I think too much credence is given to the city vs country thing. If a thing works it works, conversely its usually fairly evident when it doesn't. I think people get too constrained by "the rules" sometimes. Personally I like the linen wool blend, as well as your straight linen suit. Casually elegant with a dash of insouciance: "Yeah, I'm a little wrinkled, deal with it". As far as the limitations of what a blue suit must be I don't buy it.
I think your spread collars work great for you, and your explanation for why you prefer it over other options makes perfect sense. As for the "appropriateness" of a BD collar, it is a subjective, aesthetic choice, and as such, is not a one size fits all proposition. I'm still not sure where I stand personally regarding BD collars, but I think by their very name they imply a certain degree of constraint and conservatism, hence the expression "buttoned down". Granted there are BD collars with a graceful, elegant roll, just as there as Republicans with...oops, wrong thread.
Finally I think your reasoning for why you choose to wear these types of fabrics makes perfect sense, and subsequently suit you well. Perhaps there is a bit of sub-concious envy being (un)expressed by some of our more CBD dressers that you are able to let your freak flag flypost #4347 of 376724/13/14 at 12:35pmQuote:
Again I'm not a tailor, but see how the dart isn't perpendicular to the ground? That's an indication to me that the front isn't falling straight as it should. Here's a dart falling straight:post #4348 of 376724/13/14 at 4:21pmRudals, I am a bit confused. You talk a lot about being in a place where you have to wear a suit for work and wanting to be conservative in your dress. None of those suits are even remotely close to conservative. The last two in particular do not seem to fit well to me. The closest thing to conservative would be the blue suit, but it is a much lighter blue than navy and also has peak lapels. A nice RAF blue with notch lapels in linen could be lovely. Linen suits can be awesome, but they are also going to wrinkle like all hell. If you don't mind this and think the right linen suit will fly in your office, go for it. Just get one with notch lapels. I won't quibble with the patch pockets, though they are also not exactly CBD.
If you want to move away from CBD and think that you can get away with a wider range of suits in your office, then definitely don't be afraid to branch out. Just do so gradually. Try a nice RAF blue notch lapel suit instead of navy or try a slightly lighter grey than you are used to. A grey POW check is also a classic pattern that, while a bit more casual, is commonly seen and accepted most places. What you seem to be doing now (with the possible exception of the blue suit above which is not right for other reasons) is swinging towards the opposite end of the spectrum. Take the move away from staples slower. You'll make fewer mistakes and waste less money that way.
Also, if you do get around to getting a bespoke suit from Field or anywhere else, please, for the love of God, get something that is conservative and will be a staple in your closet for years to come. Do not get seduced by some fancy cloth that will result in a garment you'll seldom wear.post #4349 of 376724/13/14 at 5:33pmpost #4350 of 376724/13/14 at 5:46pmNoodles: *sigh* Ignore the size on the tag and actually look at what you're seeing in the mirror. No matter what size those jackets were marked, they are too small for you. As for the specific jackets, the solid's buttoning point is too high, and the windowpane shows that SS hasn't gotten a handle on pattern matching.
jrd: A spread *can* be formal, but Clags' shirts don't come off as formal in context. Also, an air force blue suit isn't formal either. Navy? Sure. There's also the issue of pleasing oneself. e.g., no matter how appropriate a button-down collar might be, you will likely never see me in one because I don't care for them. And gray jackets are great. Don't believe the hype.
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