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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 287

post #4291 of 37396
So, I got that grey Cantarelli sport coat from jungleroller. Looks like it needs to be nipped at the waist, sleeves shorted a little, and maybe the collar tightened a bit ... or it's just a bit too big and I should move on. I'd appreciate opinions. (Also, pant hems need to be raised.)



post #4292 of 37396
I think shape looks pretty nice overall. The front balance looks a little bit short - not sure if your tailor can fix that, although it helps that it's a solid (basically) so you don't have to worry about pattern-matching. Personally I wouldn't touch the waist.
post #4293 of 37396

My two cents. The sleeves could be taken up a touch but you could also leave them. Definitely needs a bit of suppression at the waist (looks a bit roomy from the side, for sure). Shoulders are pretty clean as is the back top from the side (no bunching below the collar). I think the length is within the right range. Is it clean from the back?

 

The main issue is: is it a touch big in the chest (do the lapels sit flat on your chest)? If you have it tailored, have them suppress from the armhole down rather than just at the waist. But I think this is within the acceptable range for starting, to my eye. If you have a good tailor, I would take it in to be sure and also, you could try the tailor's thread.

 

Those Cantarelli's from NMWA are nice.

post #4294 of 37396
Too short & too big.
Also, I do not understand grey sportcoats.
post #4295 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Ordered some new Kama's
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
goods_1471_2.jpg
img

I got a kama mini gingham but I think it's a shade lighter, and it's a very subtle seersucker. I like it.
post #4296 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by timotune View Post

Too short & too big.
Also, I do not understand grey sportcoats.


Yea, gray wouldn't be my first choice, but assuming Mr. Six has other SCs of brown and blue shades, why not? Grays can look quite nice with cream/off white/white trousers even navy! though I suspect this is not a summer gray jacket.

 

I agree with Umbel that the look at the front is acceptable at the waist. One could suppress a bit more to see a peak of light between waist and warm. It's more the side angle where the front of the jacket seems to jut out a bit more than I would like. I think the roominess that I feel I see on side profile at the waist can be taken care of as well as the excess fabric below the arm hole in the back if one works from the arm hole down (I had this done by a competent tailor on one of my thrifts and it came out great).

 

It's the chest I would wonder about.

 

On length: I think it's in acceptable range. The top, bottom balance looks ok to me (I would prefer maybe 0.5 inches longer). Cover his hands and look at the top versus bottom. If it covers the seat, I think it's fine. Of course, reasonable people can reasonably disagree. :)

post #4297 of 37396
Online.

I do not like either of those to wear with a tie.

put your picture direct .jpg or .gif link in between these characters. no spacing [img]linkgoeshere[/img]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


JRD, these are great. DId you buy these in store or on line? I think small scale gingham is perfect (I could see going up a few more notches, but not picnic blanket size).

I am considering something slightly larger scale: http://epauletnewyork.com/products/cutaway-collar-navy-gingham

I would not go any bigger, like this: http://www.lyst.com/clothing/jcrew-vintage-navy-slim-secret-wash-lightweight-shirt-in-van-buren-gingham-1/

A gingham too far. I'd be happy with the first two sizes for checks but not the latter. Thoughts?

(ALso, can someone teach me an easy way to embed images?).
post #4298 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


I think the roominess that I feel I see on side profile at the waist can be taken care of as well as the excess fabric below the arm hole in the back if one works from the arm hole down (I had this done by a competent tailor on one of my thrifts and it came out great).

I'm not a tailor, but I think this is due to a short front (look at the direction of the darts) rather than the waist being too big.
post #4299 of 37396
On grey SCs please see butlers post in WAYWRN for what I had in mind for pant combo.
post #4300 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by timotune View Post

Too short & too big.
Also, I do not understand grey sportcoats.

I do not understand that you do not understand this smile.gif
post #4301 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


I'm not a tailor, but I think this is due to a short front (look at the direction of the darts) rather than the waist being too big.


That's interesting...can you explain the issue with direction of the darts?

post #4302 of 37396
I think the sc looks pretty good out of the box. A few nips by a tailor possibly but nothing unsalvageable. As far as grey sc's go, why not? Looks good Mr six!
post #4303 of 37396
Okay. Went back to SS with my wife. 100% wool was hard to find but 100% linen was abundant. Here's a half arse attempt at some suits.


post #4304 of 37396
Thanks for all the feedback. To address some of the comments ...

Front balance: Good point. I looked at a number of other photos of the Cantarellis in the NMWA, and it seems like it's partly a matter of how they're cut, since that shows up for others as well. But I'll talk to my tailor about it.

Chest: I'm not one of the forum's great body builders, but I do work out regularly and have a fairly developed chest plus somewhat prominent scapula, so coats that fit well otherwise sometimes pull a bit across the chest. In this case, I think there's a bit of room, but the lapels do seem to lie flat and the drape looks good to my eye. A couple additional photos.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Length: Looks completely normal to me, so I was surprised to see that comment.

Grey sport coat: I've read the back and forth about this topic. Since I have blue and brown sport coats, this seemed like a good opportunity to add something grey to go with green and brown and grey trousers. I think that with a blue shirt, it would provide a nice palette for several ties.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


I think the roominess that I feel I see on side profile at the waist can be taken care of as well as the excess fabric below the arm hole in the back if one works from the arm hole down (I had this done by a competent tailor on one of my thrifts and it came out great).

I'm not a tailor, but I think this is due to a short front (look at the direction of the darts) rather than the waist being too big.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

That's interesting...can you explain the issue with direction of the darts?

Roominess in the side view: That was one of the things that I noticed as well and thought that waist suppression would take care of it. But I'm interested to hear about the darts, as well.
post #4305 of 37396
6, the jacket looks pretty good. You can't just "tighten the collar"...it isn't that simple. Collar gap can be caused by a number of things and often very expensive to fix...if you have a good tailor. That being said, I wouldn't say you have collar gap, just doesn't hug the neck too snug.

Rudals, 0 for 3 dude...just my opinion.
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