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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2486

post #37276 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post
 

Alright then, let me attempt to revive it.

 

It's 30+ celsius here. Every damn day. 100% humidity. Or 95% humidity with sun (not sure which is worse). I grew up in cold, rainy climes. I worked most of my life in them. 

 

What is the best way to deal with this tropical weather? Fit, materials, colours...

 

In addition to what others here have already advised you, I have learnt a few things after living in a humid, tropical climate for 6 years:

- Don't wear linen, it absorbs all the humidity and your sweat and you'll look like a beat-up cat in no time. Fresco wools are the way to go.

- Don't forget to wear an undershirt (100% cotton of course), to help soak up some of that sweat and leave you shirt look a bit more crisp.

- Wear no-show socks, forget the over the calf rule. Not as an iGent statement, but it does help to have a bit of a breeze around the ankles when walking around. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

The science of dark clothing in the heat: http://io9.gizmodo.com/5903956/the-physics-that-explain-why-you-should-wear-black-this-summer

 

This is complete bullshit. But then, you knew that already. ;) 

post #37277 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

@Murlsquirl
, can you comment on the Knottery knit ties? I'm looking for some pointed ones, but the price has me worried. At $35 are they junk?

I don't like slim or square knits so I tried them after someone on here suggested

....I'm happy with mine. I don't think they're junk. Knottery makes some pretty nice stuff at a good price. UC has some stuff from them too. Here's some shots
post #37278 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

 

- Don't forget to wear an undershirt (100% cotton of course), to help soak up some of that sweat and leave you shirt look a bit more crisp.

- Wear no-show socks, forget the over the calf rule. Not as an iGent statement, but it does help to have a bit of a breeze around the ankles when walking around. 

 

On the undershirt: interesting, but I could see two reasons why not. 

 

First, the race here is against time. You get out of the A/C, you have maybe 3-5 minutes of walking on flat, 1-2 minutes if walking up a hill, before sweat accumulates sufficiently to start transferring to the shirt. An extra layer might soak some up but mostly speeds up the process. The key is humidity - the 100% humidity means nothing evaporates so the game is to avoid heating up as long as possible rather than letting sweat come then evaporate.

 

Second, A/C inside buildings here is at 26 celsius vs the Western 23. The warmer temperature is just about bearable in shirt and chinos, but adding another layer...

 

On the socks: too casual, I think. I make do with thin socks. 

 

I'll eventually give fresco a try. Not something you find OTR unfortunately...

post #37279 of 37396

@Murlsquirl, looking good. Much obliged.

post #37280 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

@Murlsquirl
, looking good. Much obliged.

Thanks and no problemo.
post #37281 of 37396

Pulled the trigger on two Knottery and one Howard Yount knit tie. I'll be interested to see how they compare.

post #37282 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Which ones?
post #37283 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Which ones?

Black and navy from Knottery and brown from HY. I wanted a burgundy too but both places were out of those. All were pointed knits.
post #37284 of 37396

Hi everyone! Brand new to this forum. I'm planning on making a first time purchase of 2 or 3 Sam Hober ties to go with a solid mid-grey bird's eye suit, and would really appreciate any advice/recommendations for which tie to get. The colors I'm interested in are navy, purple, and possibly burgundy. Here are some I have in mind:

 

Purple:

https://www.samhober.com/herring-bone-silk-ties/purple-herringbone-silk-tie-hbt-3.html  (slightly concerned that it's a little too plain to go with a solid mid-grey suit, but the tie looks nice and it does at least have a pattern)

https://www.samhober.com/cashmere-black-warp-ties/purple-cashmere-black-warp-tie-22.html   (my concern with this tie is that it's seasonal)

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-solid-silk-ties/purple-grenadine-grossa-silk-tie-34.html (from the picture, looks a little too bright for my taste, but that might just be the picture).

 

 

Navy:

 

https://www.samhober.com/macclesfield-print-silk-ties/sky-blue-and-whit-on-midnight-blue-macclesfield-print-silk-tie-mct-341.html

http://www.samhober.com/herring-bone-silk-ties/dark-navy-blue-herringbone-silk-tie-hbt-1.html

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-silk-stripe-and-pin-dot-ties/white-on-midnight-blue-grenadine-fina-pin-dot-silk-tie-1.html (concerned that midnight blue is indistinguishable from black)

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-prometeo-silk-ties/navy-blue-prometeo-grenadine-silk-tie-7.html

 

Burgundy:

 

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-solid-silk-ties/burgundy-grenadine-grossa-silk-tie-3.html

 

I'd be open to other recommendations as well. Thanks! 

post #37285 of 37396

If you get navy and burgundy grenadines from Hober, you will have two classy and versatile ties that work with almost any suit or sportcoat you'd ever choose to wear.  Those would be my vote.  

post #37286 of 37396
Agreed. Don't have a navy/midnight yet, but the burgundy Grenadine (piccolo weave) I have from Hober is a beauty.
post #37287 of 37396

At the risk of sounding contrarian, I don't really wear grenadine anymore.

 

The world of fashion - the catwalk following lot, Givenchy wearing, etc., not Kiton and the likes - has been swept with a grenadine craze for a few years and these days grenadine screams (to me) iGent follower or fashion victim, depending on the rest of the fit. Depending on the location and therefore likelihood of hearing "Sean Connery wore it", there's the James Bond angle as well (which to be clear I see as a negative). 

 

Every tie wearing occasion of the past few years, I've tried it on, then renounced it for this reason. I'll wait until it is unfashionable again before it returns to my rotation, normcore FTW. In the meantime, hello prints, houndstooth, and other "uncommon" classic patterns...

post #37288 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

On the undershirt: interesting, but I could see two reasons why not. 

First, the race here is against time. You get out of the A/C, you have maybe 3-5 minutes of walking on flat, 1-2 minutes if walking up a hill, before sweat accumulates sufficiently to start transferring to the shirt. An extra layer might soak some up but mostly speeds up the process. The key is humidity - the 100% humidity means nothing evaporates so the game is to avoid heating up as long as possible rather than letting sweat come then evaporate.

Second, A/C inside buildings here is at 26 celsius vs the Western 23. The warmer temperature is just about bearable in shirt and chinos, but adding another layer...

On the socks: too casual, I think. I make do with thin socks. 

I'll eventually give fresco a try. Not something you find OTR unfortunately...

I find that unlined jackets help immensely against the humid heat.

A loose weave cotton/linen blend I find works better than pure linen.

Unbuttoned the jacket to improve air circulation, ditch the tie if possible.

Also agree, grenadine and knits totally screams SF brigade. No personality.
post #37289 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post
 

 

On the undershirt: interesting, but I could see two reasons why not. 

 

First, the race here is against time. You get out of the A/C, you have maybe 3-5 minutes of walking on flat, 1-2 minutes if walking up a hill, before sweat accumulates sufficiently to start transferring to the shirt. An extra layer might soak some up but mostly speeds up the process. The key is humidity - the 100% humidity means nothing evaporates so the game is to avoid heating up as long as possible rather than letting sweat come then evaporate.

 

Second, A/C inside buildings here is at 26 celsius vs the Western 23. The warmer temperature is just about bearable in shirt and chinos, but adding another layer...

 

On the socks: too casual, I think. I make do with thin socks. 

 

I'll eventually give fresco a try. Not something you find OTR unfortunately...

 

you can perhaps have a couple of extra shirts / pants at work?

And just change once you are there.

post #37290 of 37396

"'I'll eventually give fresco a try. Not something you find OTR unfortunately..."

 

@crdb I have given up OTR almost entirely. In my area at least, they simply don't stock reasonable clothing solutions for the heat. Who wears a fully (poly) lined suit when it's 94F and 88% humidity--every day?

 

So nearly all my trousers, shirts and jackets are MTM (Luxire): the trousers made loose and unlined cotton/linen for more casual, more formal are frescos w/bemberg lining. Shirts all cotton/linen. I don't wear undershirts. In my experience, an unstructured, unlined (or quarter-lined in bemberg) cotton/linen or fresco jacket wears cooler than undershirts, with benefit of being removable should you get too hot. Also, you can wear short sleeves under it.

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