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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2485

post #37261 of 37396

Traditional thinking is the lapel should approximately split the distance between the neck/inside edge of the suit and the shoulder seam, so one would see a wider lapel on a broader shouldered man.  I think there is generally some latitude there - it is not an exact "rule".  THat being said, those look too wide.  Also see https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-wide-should-my-jacket-lapels-be.html 

post #37262 of 37396

For some odd, unknown reason, this thread has died a death since the departure of its former namesake.

post #37263 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

For some odd, unknown reason, this thread has died a death since the departure of its former namesake.

Alright then, let me attempt to revive it.

 

It's 30+ celsius here. Every damn day. 100% humidity. Or 95% humidity with sun (not sure which is worse). I grew up in cold, rainy climes. I worked most of my life in them. 

 

What is the best way to deal with this tropical weather? Fit, materials, colours...

post #37264 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

For some odd, unknown reason, this thread has died a death since the departure of its former namesake.


SF has been dead in general. I chalk it up to the usual warm season reticence, but it's Fall already.

post #37265 of 37396
CM <> all of SF
post #37266 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

Alright then, let me attempt to revive it.

It's 30+ celsius here. Every damn day. 100% humidity. Or 95% humidity with sun (not sure which is worse). I grew up in cold, rainy climes. I worked most of my life in them. 

What is the best way to deal with this tropical weather? Fit, materials, colours...

Not wearing a jacket if possible. Lots of linen or linen blends (open weave wool if you need to be crisper and more professional). I tend to think lighter colors work better aesthetically in hotter weather (and might wear a tiny bit cooler), but I think color is less important than fabric. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about adjusting fit for the weather. Wear what looks good and what you are comfortable in.
post #37267 of 37396

@crdb I live in such a place, and would agree generally with archibaldleach.

 

I wear mostly linen during the (5) hottest months, although I believe wool frescos are actually superior in look and comfort.

 

I find fit to actually be important, I have my warmer weather clothes fit  more loose, and particularly around the openings such as the sleeve cuff, it seems to make quite a difference.

 

Don't forget about the undergarments--thin merino wool socks and loose all-cotton boxers can be the difference between sweating profusely and being actually comfortable. Avoid polyester.

 

If you are spending any time in direct sunlight, light colored, loose-fitting clothes--even an unlined jacket--are your friends. I top it off with a Shantung fedora and I'm good. 

post #37268 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

 
Alright then, let me attempt to revive it.

It's 30+ celsius here. Every damn day. 100% humidity. Or 95% humidity with sun (not sure which is worse). I grew up in cold, rainy climes. I worked most of my life in them. 

What is the best way to deal with this tropical weather? Fit, materials, colours...


I have it bad in the (long) summer, with weeks regularly above 40, but I'm able to park in a covered garage less than 50 meters to my office and it never is too humid, so it probably is not quite so miserable a situation that you have.

---

I think slightly looser fits work better in those climates. I have a linen jacket with a decent amount of structure and cut very close, torso and arms, to my body, and it can be a little bit unpleasant, even wearing it unbuttoned. I suspect somewhat full cuts and unstructured jackets will make a difference.

Materials are also key. Linen, linen blends, and open weave wool, like fresco, will make a big difference, particularly if you're getting your jackets quarter lined.

I also thinking lighter colors might wear a bit cooler in the summer, and as someone else mentioned, they are congruent with hot weather.
Edited by Claghorn - 10/5/16 at 10:56am
post #37269 of 37396

I agree with Clags, however I have heard that lighter colors being cooler in the heat is a myth. Not sure though. 

 

Anyway, I know this has been asked before but I can't find the answer. @Claghorn, where do you get those wider knit ties you sometimes wear? I am trying to upgrade my knits.

post #37270 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Stand in the sun with a black shirt. Stand in the sun with a white shirt. No myth.

Most of my knits are Howard Yount from 3-4 years ago. 3in I think. I know Knottery has 3.5 that @Murlsquirl likes.
post #37271 of 37396

I'll try Knottery. I don't think HY has any ties left from that long ago. 

 

Also, I don't know how much you'd trust HowStuffWorks.com, but this kinda sorta offers an interesting take.

 

http://science.howstuffworks.com/science-vs-myth/everyday-myths/light-colored-clothes-in-hot-weather.htm

post #37272 of 37396
post #37273 of 37396

@Murlsquirl, can you comment on the Knottery knit ties? I'm looking for some pointed ones, but the price has me worried. At $35 are they junk?

post #37274 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


I think slightly looser fits work better in those climates.

Interesting. For some reason I have found the opposite: wearing a tighter fit is cooler. I reasoned that more space between skin and cloth leaves air trapped to accumulate humidity and "cook" under body heat. It also protects the body from the beneficial cooling effect of air flowing past it. 

 

However, it could be that my looser fits are made of thicker, winter-appropriate material. 

post #37275 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Humidity might be a factor there too.
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