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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2463

post #36931 of 37392

Am I an idiot for not knowing what a salaryman is? Google tells me it's a "white collar worker," so assuming it just means your average schmuck in a suit?

 

@dieworkwear assuming the last is a picture of you (nice suit, if so), what are the deets on that tie?

post #36932 of 37392

@sebastian mcfox

 

There’s lots of room for personal preference here, as always.  People should like what they wear.   As much as I like some pinstripe and chalk stripe suits I’d probably stop short of claiming that either is a necessary wardrobe staple in answer to a question such as the one you raised.

 

I happen to like the fabric in the Huntsman suit that I posted, and I don’t like the Bond fabric.   As I mentioned, I happen to have a mid-gray pinstripe that’s roughly in the same category as the Huntsman and I wear it year round.  Over the years I’ve had more than one very closely spaced striped suit like the Bond exampke and in all cases they’ve ended up in the charity shop.  That’s just the way it is for me.  But a statement of personal preference isn’t a statement of general principle.  (By the way, I’ve lived in Tony Soprano country, but have no cultural associations with either cloth that would suggest the mob.  To the extent that I have any associations at all with cloth such as the Huntsman it would be with London’s financial world.)

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #36933 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

@dieworkwear
 assuming the last is a picture of you (nice suit, if so), what are the deets on that tie?

Tan suit and DB are Rubinacci suits on Iammatt

Last photo is early Liverano on maomao.

If you look up any photo of maomao, you'll see a soft extended shoulder. I think he requests an extension on all his jackets -- Corcos, Liverano, Paone, etc.
post #36934 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 


Ok, so the logic is: it looks good on Bond but doesn't look good on a salaryman so it won't look good on me?

 

You're beginning to catch on. You took something that is universally panned for good reason (see Gus's post above) and suspended your disbelief because of the Ford/Bond connection. That sort of spacing is, for whatever reason, ubiquitous in dollar store entry-level suits and is cheesy.

post #36935 of 37392
I didn't know this wading thing. I thought it's all sort of canvas.
But it makes sense there is some structure in shoulder.
post #36936 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

I didn't know this wading thing. I thought it's all sort of canvas.
But it makes sense there is some structure in shoulder.

Not all jackets have wadding. I tried for years to get them in my NSM jackets, but was unsuccessful.
post #36937 of 37392
@dieworkwear that is SUPER helpful, thanks! So having an extended shoulder required at least some padding for the wadding to connect to?
post #36938 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

@dieworkwear that is SUPER helpful, thanks! So having an extended shoulder required at least some padding for the wadding to connect to?

I have jackets with extended shoulders that don't have any padding or wadding at all.
post #36939 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

@dieworkwear that is SUPER helpful, thanks! So having an extended shoulder required at least some padding for the wadding to connect to?

Yes, you would need a shoulder pad to hold the wadding.

Depending on how the shoulder pad is cut and wadding shaped, you can get a minimally padded shoulder line (what we think of as a "built up shoulder/ structured shoulder," but with or without a shoulder extension. Without that wadding the end of your shoulder line would just collapse after where your natural shoulder ends.

Patrick Johnson once showed me a completely deconstructed sport coat. It didn't have any canvassing, wadding, or padding. In that case, you wouldn't be able to get an extended shoulder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

I have jackets with extended shoulders that don't have any padding or wadding at all.

Wait, you sure? How would the shoulder not collapse then?
post #36940 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Wait, you sure? How would the shoulder not collapse then?

Positive. Made by NSM from a heavy herringbone cashmere tweed, all it has is a shoulder sewn seam. The navy blazer they made for me (herringbone cashmere) prior to this jacket has a bit of wadding or something in the shoulder seam area for structure.
post #36941 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

Positive. Made by NSM from a heavy herringbone cashmere tweed, all it has is a shoulder sewn seam. The navy blazer they made for me (herringbone cashmere) prior to this jacket has a bit of wadding or something in the shoulder seam area for structure.

How does the shoulder line not collapse though? Just seems like without any structure, this would be like asking for an extended shoulder on a dress shirt.
post #36942 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

How does the shoulder line not collapse though? Just seems like without any structure, this would be like asking for an extended shoulder on a dress shirt.

Paging @Despos.
post #36943 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

Positive. Made by NSM from a heavy herringbone cashmere tweed, all it has is a shoulder sewn seam. The navy blazer they made for me (herringbone cashmere) prior to this jacket has a bit of wadding or something in the shoulder seam area for structure.

How does the shoulder line not collapse though? Just seems like without any structure, this would be like asking for an extended shoulder on a dress shirt.

 

I'm just speculating but could it be the heaviness and thickness of the tweed that allows for this?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #36944 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

How does the shoulder line not collapse though? Just seems like without any structure, this would be like asking for an extended shoulder on a dress shirt.


I suppose a heavy fabric doesn't need much or any extra material to hold it's shape. It does have a slightly soft drop, similar to the pic above of Mariano Rubinacci's jacket.

Sorry, but I don't have any pics of me wearing the jacket anymore after dumping a ton of photos off my computer. I'll look and see if I can find one on my Tumblr.
post #36945 of 37392
Here is a small pic of it pulled of my Tumblr blog abitofcolor





I'd say this angle and because my elbow is bent give the shoulder the appearance of a straight line look where when standing it has a bit of a drop off beyond my natural shoulder.
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