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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2462

post #36916 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

I'm not a fan of narrow pinstripes in any color. If Anderson & Shepard offered me one for free I wouldn't take it. Seriously. I think I saw far too many cheap ones and Vegas mob types wearing them with Versace ties to ever consider one.

 

By 'narrow' are you referring to the width of the stripe, the spacing, or both?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #36917 of 37394
@sebastian mcfox Why not consider a year-round weight navy in a lighter weight fine twill? It is nice to have a rotation of classic navy but in different fabrics. Maybe with a very slight color shift from what you have?

I've always enjoyed having more than two blue blazers or navy suits in slightly different weights and with slightly different details.
post #36918 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

What's a celeryman?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post

@sebastian mcfox Why not consider a year-round weight navy in a lighter weight fine twill? It is nice to have a rotation of classic navy but in different fabrics. Maybe with a very slight color shift from what you have?

I've always enjoyed having more than two blue blazers or navy suits in slightly different weights and with slightly different details.

Could do - in my mind the navy Minnis Rangoon and the navy birdseye covered all seasons, but I wouldn't say no to another navy suit.

post #36919 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

By 'narrow' are you referring to the width of the stripe, the spacing, or both?

Cheers,

Ac

Both, narrow spaced with narrow width stripes.
post #36920 of 37394
This seems like as good of a place as any for this question.

I've seen blogs mention "extended soft shoulders" (I think most recently on Put This On), and it seems like an oxymoron to me. Extended structured shoulders make sense, but I have a hard time picturing extended soft shoulders. Anyone have an explanation and example?
post #36921 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 

 

Touché, sir.

post #36922 of 37394
Spacing then width
post #36923 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

What's a celeryman?

Proletarian
post #36924 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

This seems like as good of a place as any for this question.

I've seen blogs mention "extended soft shoulders" (I think most recently on Put This On), and it seems like an oxymoron to me. Extended structured shoulders make sense, but I have a hard time picturing extended soft shoulders. Anyone have an explanation and example?

I think (very likely I'm mistaken) this is along the lines of the Liverano look. Not sure if it's the design intention, but it seems to my eye to create a bit of a relaxed, slouchy look.

post #36925 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

This seems like as good of a place as any for this question.

I've seen blogs mention "extended soft shoulders" (I think most recently on Put This On), and it seems like an oxymoron to me. Extended structured shoulders make sense, but I have a hard time picturing extended soft shoulders. Anyone have an explanation and example?

You can't really have unstructured extended shoulder, I think (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). People often confuse structure with padding. You can have unpadded, or lightly padded shoulder, but extended. Structure is achieved with canvasing.
I actually prefer jackets like this, because I have relativelly narrow shoulders.
post #36926 of 37394
I have a couple of Neapolitan jackets that are soft shoulders and have a bit of an extension without any padding. Mariano Rubinacci, the father on the left, has a bit of an extension and to his soft shoulder which is fairly common in Naples depending upon the tailor. While his son, who has a more broad shoulder build, has more of a defined shoulder on his jacket. The construction could be identical and just reflect their physical build.


post #36927 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 

Not entirely sure what the point is - you could take almost any item of clothing worn by the pantheon of Bonds and they would look like garbage on different people and in different contexts.

 

Correct, that was my point exactly.

post #36928 of 37394
One Attolini jacket I have is like this. Two PZ Sartoriale that I have are like this.
SuSu La Spalla or Jort has a bit extended shoulders.

Again, maybe because I have narrow shoulders, but they all fit well.
post #36929 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

 

Correct, that was my point exactly.


Ok, so the logic is: it looks good on Bond but doesn't look good on a salaryman so it won't look good on me?

post #36930 of 37394
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

This seems like as good of a place as any for this question.

I've seen blogs mention "extended soft shoulders" (I think most recently on Put This On), and it seems like an oxymoron to me. Extended structured shoulders make sense, but I have a hard time picturing extended soft shoulders. Anyone have an explanation and example?

Shoulders are made up of both padding and wadding. Padding is what goes over your shoulder line. Wadding is the cushy material that gives it some structure. You can have a minimally padded shoulder with a slight extension using wadding. Without the wadding, the shoulder line would just collapse at the end.

Here's some hand-shaped wadding:



Liverano would be a popular example of a soft, extended shoulder. Iammatt's Rubinacci jackets on this forum would be another.

I really like an extended shoulder line, personally. They help give that V-shaped silhouette, which is nice if you don't naturally have such a figure.






Edited by dieworkwear - 8/21/16 at 6:36pm
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