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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2457

post #36841 of 37392
Greg, can you provide some pics to highlight your point?
post #36842 of 37392
3r2




vs

3 r 2.5


post #36843 of 37392
Assuming the same tailor and the rest of the specifications being the same (e.g. same belly on the lapels), isn't the buttoning point going to be at the same place for 3r2 and 2 button? In that case the lapel length is going to be the same too and there's just the third buttonhole that enters the visual field. And the effect of that's de minimis.

3r2.5 is obviously different.
post #36844 of 37392

Greg, I didn't mean what you talk about (which I think happens with both 3r2 and 3r2.5), I rather mean the fabric showing that a button is sewed on the other side.

 

But yes I think what Greg is talking about is what makes 3r2 a bit different from 2 button. The line is more curved (in imo a pleasant way, if you like it), and less sharp.

 

Also I don't know if this is  the consensus, but as we know 3 button (and therefore 3r2.5 more than 3r2) elongnates the body by lengthening the torso, but as a side effect I think it also somewhat slims it, especially when paired with a not too narrow shoulder and a flared skirt. 2 button or 3r2 on the other hand, has 2 buttons creating the center focus, and this focus, is placed somewhat lower (the 3 buttons roughly has the middle button in the middle), which I think makes the upper body looks bigger and more muscular, as does a lowered buttoning point in general. I mean this isn't anything particularly new, but I am interested in how different stylings and cuts affect the body as you all know.

 

But I think it's interesting to see if people agree that a wider shoulder might not necessarily make a person top heavy if paired with skirt flair (so the width is balanced on the bottom and top) and with a lower buttoning point, I think instead it makes it a more balanced hourglass and places the focus on the waist instead of the shoulders.

 

As to buttons, I've decided to use 3r2.5 on all my SCs, and 2 button on citified blazers with strong shoulders/structuring. Think that'd be more consistent, and make the items each more unique/specialized for what I want to use them for. I tend to think I will be wearing the blazers with quite bold simple outfits, like cream/white flannel/chinos, or gray flannels, so I want less clutter to allow the color contrast to take emphasis, and the strong cut (which I like) to speak for itself.

 

Something like these perhaps:

 

 

 

On the other hand, I'd want 3r2.5 on things like these:

 

(I know first one isn't 3r2.5 but I think it would work just great on the fabric as well, as the extra bit of curving allows more room for the interesting texture to shine)

 

 

 

And what I am saying is that I'm going to shy away from something like this:

 

 

Which looks very good to me, and is very versatile, it's both formal/citified and also have some flair, but since I am not forced to wear formal suits, I can just wear more rustic item when I want that kind of look, instead of adding sprezz to a formal suit.

 

Only issue is with the glen plaid silk-linen jacket. I wonder if I made something like that 3r2.5 it would be too closed off and prudish/stuck up which the picture after it sort of shows (despite still looking very good, but you know, it's more "put together" and less sprezzy).


Edited by Isolation - 7/19/16 at 2:37am
post #36845 of 37392
New Friday Challenge is up!

Casual or conservative doesn't matter, it's all about the little details this time around.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/526443/friday-challenge-july-22-2016-victory-in-detail
Edited by jcmeyer - 7/20/16 at 2:54pm
post #36846 of 37392
Iso, I don't think any of those qualities is particularly dependent on button configuration. Yes, if the top button of a three-button suit is placed in the middle of the lapel roll, that can affect things, but that's not inherent to a roll-2 or roll-2.5 configuration.
post #36847 of 37392
Thread Starter 

To anyone in the market for tennis shoes right now, Wolf vs Goat has theirs at about 85% off. I've never handled his shoes, but I know the shirts and pants from him are VERY high quality (and given his obsession with construction and materials, I suspect this extends to shoes).

post #36848 of 37392
post #36849 of 37392

Hello all, I've spent more time than I'd like to admit reading and getting to know all of the most common posters on this thread.

 

I myself am an undergraduate (junior yr) student who will be doing extensive networking and interviewing this coming fall semester. I would really like to have a suit made from Mr. Ned for the interviews, most likely a simply navy 120's maybe 130's suit. My biggest fear is that if I come in with a suit like that and a pair of carmina oxfords I might be perceived as too superficial- I want to be seen as well put together but not stick out simply because of my clothing. The positions that I'm seeking is finance/accounting analyst level, and from my experiences it wouldn't be too hard dressing better than most management. 

 

I assume most of you are in a position where your opinion carries weight and I would like to know if suit from the likes of Mr. Ned will do more harm than say another suit supply suit. I would appreciate all input on what you would consider the ideal interview attire, as well as where you might draw boundaries, if any. 

 

I was thinking the primary attire would be light blue shirt (I think white is too serious) with a solid navy or burgundy grenadine tie.

I would also really like one of these ties, I don't have either because I wanted SF's seal of approval regarding their appropriateness for interviews.

-Ancient Madder 1

-Ancient Madder 2

Both ties would be paired with a light blue shirt and either a charcoal suit or navy suit

post #36850 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by OdusBK View Post
 

Hello all, I've spent more time than I'd like to admit reading and getting to know all of the most common posters on this thread.

 

I myself am an undergraduate (junior yr) student who will be doing extensive networking and interviewing this coming fall semester. I would really like to have a suit made from Mr. Ned for the interviews, most likely a simply navy 120's maybe 130's suit. My biggest fear is that if I come in with a suit like that and a pair of carmina oxfords I might be perceived as too superficial- I want to be seen as well put together but not stick out simply because of my clothing. The positions that I'm seeking is finance/accounting analyst level, and from my experiences it wouldn't be too hard dressing better than most management. 

 

I assume most of you are in a position where your opinion carries weight and I would like to know if suit from the likes of Mr. Ned will do more harm than say another suit supply suit. I would appreciate all input on what you would consider the ideal interview attire, as well as where you might draw boundaries, if any. 

 

I was thinking the primary attire would be light blue shirt (I think white is too serious) with a solid navy or burgundy grenadine tie.

I would also really like one of these ties, I don't have either because I wanted SF's seal of approval regarding their appropriateness for interviews.

-Ancient Madder 1

-Ancient Madder 2

Both ties would be paired with a light blue shirt and either a charcoal suit or navy suit


I see nothing wrong with a MTM navy suit for interviews. No personal experience with Mr. Ned, though. Keep the styling classic (notch lapel, single-breasted, 2-button) and the fabric a true navy worsted or maybe a nailhead if you really want a little texture. I like the first tie and I think it would also be fine for interviews.  I personally would not wear a pocket square to an interview. Good luck!

post #36851 of 37392
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Code:
[quote name="OdusBK" url="/t/375309/good-natured-advice-thread-improving-a-business-wardrobe/36840#post_8521384"]Hello all, I've spent more time than I'd like to admit reading and getting to know all of the most common posters on this thread.

I myself am an undergraduate (junior yr) student who will be doing extensive networking and interviewing this coming fall semester. I would really like to have a suit made from Mr. Ned for the interviews, most likely a simply navy 120's maybe 130's suit. My biggest fear is that if I come in with a suit like that and a pair of carmina oxfords I might be perceived as too superficial- I want to be seen as well put together but not stick out simply because of my clothing. The positions that I'm seeking is finance/accounting analyst level, and from my experiences it wouldn't be too hard dressing better than most management. 

I assume most of you are in a position where your opinion carries weight and I would like to know if suit from the likes of Mr. Ned will do more harm than say another suit supply suit. I would appreciate all input on what you would consider the ideal interview attire, as well as where you might draw boundaries, if any. 

I was thinking the primary attire would be light blue shirt (I think white is too serious) with a solid navy or burgundy grenadine tie.
I would also really like one of these ties, I don't have either because I wanted SF's seal of approval regarding their appropriateness for interviews.
-[URL=http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Atkinsons-Ancient-Madder-Necktie-Neat-Nvy4-6095-1.html]Ancient Madder 1[/URL]
-[URL=http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/Atkinsons-Ancient-Madder-Necktie-Print-Grn3-6093-5.html]Ancient Madder 2[/URL]
Both ties would be paired with a light blue shirt and either a charcoal suit or navy suit
[/quote]

Experiences with Ned's are mixed. I've two jackets from Vahram and am not very happy with either. Here is what the Fine Young Gentleman got from Ned's.. Judge for yourself. At that price point, I'd recommend doing H. Freeman MTM with Izzy Zuber of LS Men's Clothing, waiting for Joe Hemrajani of MyTailor to come to NYC (bespoke, but with no fittings), or get what's basically a bespoke suit from Alan David Custom.

A well-fitting suit always makes a better impression than a suit with mediocre fit. If you'll be doing interviews in a navy or charcoal suit and tie, then there's nothing wrong with a white shirt. If you think dead white is too severe, get a cream shirt instead.

For job interviews, I think that if your dress is a sober and well-fitting version of what your interviewers are expecting or hoping for, then you'll make a favorable impression on the clothes front. The rest, obviously, is up to you. What good and well-chosen tailored clothes do is put the focus on you. And that is exactly what you want for a job interview.
post #36852 of 37392

@breakaway01 Thank you for the well wishes! So uhhh... I guess a chalk windowpane double-breasted suit with 4.5in peak lapels is out of the question? :uhoh:

 

@Testudo_Aubreii I was actually going to try LS for shirting, have you had personal experience with Izzy?

If we work well together then I don't see why I would go elsewhere for the suit, considering Hemrajani's schedule doesn't really work and LS is a fair amount cheaper than Alan David.

Actually a little surprised I've never heard of Alan David on here before, checked out their site and saw the turnaround time is just over 2 weeks... (15 to 18 days not specified as business days)

post #36853 of 37392

I require your help, gentlemen. I'm about to place an order with Luxire for a white shirt. It will be worn with a midnight blue classic Corneliani suit and black bow tie. I'd like a shirt fabric that isn't transparent, wears cool and looks luxurious. I've found the following fabrics, but since I'm not familiar with the different definitions, I'm in no position to decide which is best for such an occassion. Here are the fabrics:

 

1. Albini Plain White: http://luxire.com/products/albini-plain-white-albini_np_silver_fl34403_1_290

2. Albini Plain Fine White (does "Fine" indiciate that it's finer vowen?): http://luxire.com/products/albini-plain-fine-white-albini_np_st_james_fl34766_1_310

3. Albini Plain White 100/2 (what does 100/2 mean?): http://luxire.com/products/albini-plain-white-albini_np_st_james_fl34766_1_310

4. Albini Plain White Lustrous: http://luxire.com/products/albini-plain-white-lustrous-albini_np_piquet100_fl54011_1_420

5. Albini Plain Ultra Fine White: http://luxire.com/products/albini-plain-ultra-fine-white-albini_np_piumino_fl51267_1_420

6: Grandi & Rubinelli White Poplin: http://luxire.com/products/grandi_afrodite_b_06577_09051_white_poplin

7. Grandi & Rubinelli Fine White Plain White: http://luxire.com/products/grandi_cam2000_b_02836_09188_fine_white_plain_weave

 

What should I choose? It's rather urgent, as I need to place the order asap. Thank you.


Edited by DonRaphael - 7/28/16 at 7:24am
post #36854 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by OdusBK View Post
 

Hello all, I've spent more time than I'd like to admit reading and getting to know all of the most common posters on this thread.

 

I myself am an undergraduate (junior yr) student who will be doing extensive networking and interviewing this coming fall semester. I would really like to have a suit made from Mr. Ned for the interviews, most likely a simply navy 120's maybe 130's suit. My biggest fear is that if I come in with a suit like that and a pair of carmina oxfords I might be perceived as too superficial- I want to be seen as well put together but not stick out simply because of my clothing. The positions that I'm seeking is finance/accounting analyst level, and from my experiences it wouldn't be too hard dressing better than most management. 

 

I assume most of you are in a position where your opinion carries weight and I would like to know if suit from the likes of Mr. Ned will do more harm than say another suit supply suit. I would appreciate all input on what you would consider the ideal interview attire, as well as where you might draw boundaries, if any. 

 

I was thinking the primary attire would be light blue shirt (I think white is too serious) with a solid navy or burgundy grenadine tie.

I would also really like one of these ties, I don't have either because I wanted SF's seal of approval regarding their appropriateness for interviews.

-Ancient Madder 1

-Ancient Madder 2

Both ties would be paired with a light blue shirt and either a charcoal suit or navy suit

 

Have you thought about Kent Wang for a MTM suit?  He's very good to work with and most have had a positive experience without breaking the bank.  Navy two button suit with a white or light blue shirt, conservative tie and black or dark brown Carminas and you'll be good to go.  Leave the pocket square at home.  I would not worry about a negative perception dressed like that.

post #36855 of 37392
Thread Starter 
@odusbk

Madder 2 will work better with a solid navy suit, white shirt. Or a light blue shirt and a charcoal suit. Or a light blue shirt, deep burgundy tie, and a navy suit. Someone mentioned nailhead, which is a nice idea.

Agree w/ everyone re the square.


---
@DonRaphael

I think you might have to ask at the Luxire thread. But it sounds like a nice rig!
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