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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2456

post #36826 of 37396
Can you use Birdseye for jacketting? Chocolate brown flannel with small % cashmere, sb notch with 2 patch, lightly constructed. Feels like some texture better than socially solid for such a thing.
post #36827 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Can you use Birdseye for jacketting? Chocolate brown flannel with small % cashmere, sb notch with 2 patch, lightly constructed. Feels like some texture better than socially solid for such a thing.

Take it or leave it but I've been told on several occasions that birdseye is suiting only.
post #36828 of 37396
^this, though I've never heard a tremendously compelling reason as to just why it is suiting only.
post #36829 of 37396
Early in my sartorial journey I had blazers it made in less than navy birdseye. Mistake, I have never been compelled to wear the jacket as a SC. There just always seems to be a better choice. Maybe the brown described above is different, but that is my experience. The birdseye just doesn't offer much texture...
post #36830 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

AUD

Very interesting. Thanks for the info.
post #36831 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

Probably a dumb question, but does P. Johnson charge in AUD or USD?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

AUD
Would depend on where you buy from them I'd imagine wouldn't it? PJ have a full-time showroom in the US now and I'd imagine would legally have to charge in USD when buying off them through there, unlike say a traveling tailor type arrangement.
post #36832 of 37396
Gentlemen,

Is it possible to successfully remove back pockets from a pair of trousers? I had some made with a VBC wool/mohair blend in cream. The cream turned out to be transparent and the rear pockets show right through in all their lovely detail. I'd be OK with leaving the pocket openings as faux pockets.
post #36833 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post


Would depend on where you buy from them I'd imagine wouldn't it? PJ have a full-time showroom in the US now and I'd imagine would legally have to charge in USD when buying off them through there, unlike say a traveling tailor type arrangement.

I don't doubt you're right. I've only ever seen general pricing on an Australian based website, hence the question. Assuming the listed prices in that article are AUD, PJT becomes a far more intriguing proposition!
post #36834 of 37396

Continuing on the brown jacket thing:

 

I've now narrowed down on considering a minnis brown flannel, and the below:

 

http://dugdalebros.com/cloth-ranges/luxury-flannel-and-cashmere-jacketing-bunch-147/

 

6920

 

6921

 

6906

 

 

http://dugdalebros.com/cloth-ranges/super-120s-and-cashmere-bunch-203/

 

1320

 

So the 6906 seems tempting to me, 100% cashmere you know and all, but firstly I'm not sure if I want a jacket that can only be worn in very cold weather, and secondly not sure if the pattern is good. It IS in the jacketting bunch so I assume whomever designed it think it's fine, and I'd say that means 1320 in the other bunch is fine too.

 

the 1320 is 10oz, and also cheaper, so I'm actually tempted to think the less luxurious option (and one not designed for jacketting specifically) is better, but I think it's less textured so whereas the flannel/cashmere end-on-end/birdseye looking thing would be fine for a jacket maybe this one less so? I feel like in this color it'd still be fine, and I think it'd be a bit more hardwearing and versatile in 10oz wool than in flannel. That said I don't actually know the weight for the other fabrics, I'm looking to hear back from them.

 

This is one of the pictures I've seen that somewhat indicates what I want, though I am less keen on specifically flannel.

 

post #36835 of 37396

@Isolation (Unrelated but that jacket's too short.) I like 6906 way more than 6920, the latter definitely reads like birdsye suiting material whereas the former seems like a brown donegal-type tweed and hence sportcoat appropriate. How big is the cost difference? I think you could probably find a non-cashmere version of 6906 in some other book, but I don't know enough about fabric books to point you in the right direction.

post #36836 of 37396

I don't think I am TOO bothered by the cost different (it's 100 pounds more per meter), if it's really appropriate, more worried about durability or versatility if it might be too warm. Also yes, I am quite keen on 6906, but despos recommended some other books so I am going to check me out some Loro Piana first.

post #36837 of 37396
For whatever it's worth (not much, because it's your money) 100 GBP per meter is a fairly substantial difference between cloth.

Like Despos said above (I think) W. Bill's Phoenix has some fairly interesting not too heavy options.
post #36838 of 37396

Yeah either way I am getting a sample first, but would look into loro piana first.

post #36839 of 37396

Opinion:

 

Unless your build is particularly unsuited for it 3r2.5 is superior to 3r2. You either want the extra sprezz and 3 dimensionality and want to go all the way, or you want to get clean lines and go for a 2 button jacket with a longer lapel line. I know this depends on your body and lapel width, but I tend to find that 3r2 with wider lapels makes for an awkawrd roll compared to 3r2.5 or 2 button because the button is exactly at the point of the roll and may interfere with it (or worse yet, you can see the material scrunching up from the front of the lapel. 3r2.5 avoids this, and I think altogether achieves a much more clearly casual look, especially if you want to show off the fancy MoP button or whatever from a side view (you see less of it on 3r2).

 

I think from now on I am going either 2 button or 3r2.5 (or maybe 1 button). I'm using 3r2.5 only on rustic jackets though. Haven't tried on linen yet, but have done so on patterned flannel and tweed, and worsted wool in casual colors, and I far prefer it. Think I prefer 2 button in sharper city colors though. Think I will have the MTO Navy Houndstooth with dieworkwear in 3r2.5, and the brown hopsack jacket I was discussing before in that as well.

 

I can see an exception for a summery jacket like the houndstooth fresco though, because probably there's something to be said of being less covered up in a summer jacket (so you might unbutton it at times and even when buttoned you want less material covering your body, but I think I still prefer it. While hard 3 looks ugly unbuttoned I don't find that to be a problem with 3r2.5.

 

Thoughts?


Edited by Isolation - 7/18/16 at 5:25pm
post #36840 of 37396
What you call awkward scrunching at the button, some tailors call "giving some life" to a jacket. Same with intentional tension at the buttoning point of a DB.
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