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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2448

post #36706 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Positivevibes View Post
 

 

Quote:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

*inserts generic meek/humble introduction in order to appease SF wise men*

 

Gents, I posted a tailoring query in the tailoring thread but didn't get any response. If you do not mind I will try my luck here...

 

I have a minor query regarding the shoulder fit of my new Canali suit – it is the fruit of a rather ill-advised request to my tailor for the dreaded “shoulder” modification. Yes, I know the orthodoxy on this (better not to bother) but was so desperate to try…

 

The shoulder divot, yes whilst being obvious, as you can see, is worse from some angles than others.

 

Personally, I don’t mind it so, but neither am I an authority on such things…Thus, I request the good gentlemen of SF if they be honest with me and tell me – more work required or can I put it to the back of my mind?

 

Many thanks,

 

D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It isn't worth the bother and the expense and I am not sure it can be fixed. It does look like you might have some issues that could be fixed by rotating the sleeves, but its hard to tell. Do you have any pictures where you are standing with both arms simply by your side, naturally?

post #36707 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Having had the benefit of seeing jcm in three dimensions, I can say that most of CM's critiques are more truthy than true. The supposed beneficial optical illusions don't really accomplish much IRL. You can choose to cover your ass or visually lengthen your legs. You can make the lapels proportional to your head or to some theoretical ideal. You can get the improved drape from cuffs or gain (maybe) some extra perceived lankiness from no cuffs. They're all tradeoffs, and if you're short, not a single one of them will make you look any less short. A man with a relatively long torso and short legs will never look like anything but that.

I do think that besom pockets are a useful suggestion, and also that a short man's odd jacket length might usefully be shorter than his suit jacket.


I'm one of the long torso short legged people with a 29/29.5 inseam but at 6'1" I'm not short. To cover my ass with a jacket I need a long which when buttoned makes my legs look stumpy. In casual clothes (no jacket) a long rise on the pants helps a lot but are Caustic Man's suggestions something I should take to heart for myself?


Edited by winghus - 7/1/16 at 1:01am
post #36708 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by winghus View Post
 


I'm one of the long torso short legged people with a 29/29.5 inseam but at 6'1" I'm not short.

 

:uhoh:  That's a full 2 inches shorter than my no-break inseam and I am the same height. 

post #36709 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

Being a short person myself, I can say from experience that only about half of the tips above make any sense.

Yes to slightly stronger shoulders and a lower buttoning point. But, I've found that the width of the lapels doesn't have much influence on perceived body length, as long as the V created by a lower buttoning point affords enough "verticality". Besom pockets may be a bit more flattering than flap or patch pockets, but not that important IMO. So for a suit, choose besom, but go ahead with patch pockets on your SC's.

Shorter jackets are not always the best solution: most important is to have correct proportions and fluent lines. So if you drop the buttoning point, don't make the jacket too short because you'll end up with awkward proportions that only draw attention to your being short.

For a long time I also believed that uncuffed trousers were better, but in the end I've found out it hardly matters. (And cuffed trousers do look nicer). What a short guy should avoid is a trouser break. Make sure your trouser legs just barely touch your shoes.

This way, you can look like a SF star and Andre The Giant at the same time :D


You are slightly contradicting yourself. You said half of what I said makes sense and yet you also suggest that everything I said makes at least a little sense. I never said that all these corrections were equally important, just that they can all help. In any case, shorter jackets are always a good choice. 

 

I also think you are slightly fooling yourself and falling too much in-line with SF dogma on the cuff thing. I like cuffed trousers, but they do accentuate shortness. Not only by creating vertical lines but by increasing the girth of the ankle making your leg look beefier and stubby. This is clear in the JCM pic, where he should be looking to slim the appearance of his legs at every opportunity. If you simply must have cuffs at least make them slimmer than the wide cuffs worn by taller men.

post #36710 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 


You are slightly contradicting yourself. You said half of what I said makes sense and yet you also suggest that everything I said makes at least a little sense. I never said that all these corrections were equally important, just that they can all help. In any case, shorter jackets are always a good choice. 

 

I also think you are slightly fooling yourself and falling too much in-line with SF dogma on the cuff thing. I like cuffed trousers, but they do accentuate shortness. Not only by creating vertical lines but by increasing the girth of the ankle making your leg look beefier and stubby. This is clear in the JCM pic, where he should be looking to slim the appearance of his legs at every opportunity. If you simply must have cuffs at least make them slimmer than the wide cuffs worn by taller men.

 

You're 6'1 and base your opinion about what works on shorter men on pics from JCM. I have been 5'7 for the past 3 decades or so and speak from experience. Who is fooling himself here? 

I just explained that from my own experience shorter jackets are not always a good choice and cuffs do not add significant girth or stubbiness.

post #36711 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

You're 6'1 and base your opinion about what works on shorter men on pics from JCM.

 

What a remarkably stupid thing to say.

post #36712 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavinband View Post

Gents

Would you be annoyed if your bespoke trousers had been made with belt loops instead of side adjusters? By bespoke I mean proper bespoke and not mtm (only mention for difference in price point and hence maybe differing views). Obvious from the question it has happened to me.

Thanks!

I wouldn't be annoyed but I would politely tell the tailor. They understand that they make mistakes and its factored into the price that they charge. On those rare occasions when something goes wrong, most bespoke tailors are going to want to fix it and they aren't going to view you mentioning a mistake as insulting. It's just like any other business. Shit goes wrong and you fix it. No biggie.
post #36713 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

(And cuffed trousers do look nicer).

Heresy. smile.gif
post #36714 of 37396

Ah, this is great. Some really trenchant positions being taken here. And about clothes 'n shit, too.

 

Moar. Moar!

post #36715 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 I have been 5'7 for the past 3 decades or so and speak from experience. 

Just wait, sooner or later you'll shrink an inch or two.

post #36716 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Just wait, sooner or later you'll shrink an inch or two.

post #36717 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Heresy. smile.gif

I take that as a compliment:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Ah, this is great. Some really trenchant positions being taken here. And about clothes 'n shit, too.

Moar. Moar!

Really? To me it sounded more like someone calling another poster stupid instead of trying to address the point that's being made.

Nice use of the word 'trenchant', by the way, on the centenary commemoration of the battle of the Somme. wink.gif
post #36718 of 37396
As an man of average height, the only thing I really notice on less-than-average height people in real life is that their eyes are lower than mine. Sometimes I can see a birthmark on their scalp.
I've never considered cuffs, sometimes I observe a jacket too long or too short, and shoulder pitch is not nearly as noticeable as shoulder width.
Most often I notice a nice fabric, pleasing colors, or tasteful pattern matching. Fat/skinny/ugly/jacked grill/small shoulders are just life and there's only so much one can do. I'm not advising to do nothing, but I will say there are more important things to consider.
post #36719 of 37396
Of course I didn't call you stupid.

Your post merited no response because you didn't give any evidence.
post #36720 of 37396
CM's suggestions are fine and I agree with most of them but in the end just wear what you like, no reason to wear clothes that you don't like attempting to look taller.
It's obvious a short person should not wear trousers with 2+" inches cuffs ( mine have around 1,25 inches), pants too long, overly long jackets, huge lapels, etc.
I also read short people should not wear patterned jackets, basically a short guy based on these "rules" has a very limited choice when dressing. Don't wear sandals to the beach, you lose around an inch of height compared to regular shoes, I forgot to say.
Also jcmeyer doesn't look that short to me based on the previous picture, I thought he was around 5ft7/8inches, but I remember he stated he is 5ft5in.
Edited by Slh - 7/1/16 at 10:18am
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