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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2444

post #36646 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

So we're NOT talking about dark (blue) linen shirts? If I'm off base with both, then you'll surely need to enlighten me.

 

The Parties herein are talking about all anti non-blue (dark) light (where "light" refers to tint; not hue, and not flux) linen/non-linen (includes those derived from hemp or hemp by-products containing 40% greater of flaxseed derived content) shirts, and including but not limited to bleu, blau, or blauw, excepting where not actually referring to "blue" as such (hereafter, "Blue"), and expressly excluding non-iron variants, unless stipulated otherwise in any of the preceding Articles; the above does not apply where the Parties herein, or their agents, notify the other Parties in writing of intent to talk about (non) blue (linen/non-linen) shirts. For a complete table of color codes, Pantone values, and rights associated therewith, see §3.4.1, Fig. 2, "Blue" and Appendix γ-6, "I Just Blue Myself."

post #36647 of 37497
With the pound crashing I figure it's time to try some British tailors. I'm deciding between Steed MTM and Whitcomb and Shaftesbury classic. Thoughts? My understanding is W&S will be cut by SR cutters while Steed MTM is just measured, so I'm tempted to try W&S for 1.4k vs Steed's £900.
post #36648 of 37497
post #36649 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

With the pound crashing I figure it's time to try some British tailors. I'm deciding between Steed MTM and Whitcomb and Shaftesbury classic. Thoughts? My understanding is W&S will be cut by SR cutters while Steed MTM is just measured, so I'm tempted to try W&S for 1.4k vs Steed's £900.


Doesn't matter who the cutter is if you don't like their style/silhouette. Go for the tailor that suits your goals (as price doesn't seem to bother you in this situation).

post #36650 of 37497

Starting to see early signs of the return of the contrast collar, in Manhattan anyway....:cloud:

post #36651 of 37497

I really don't mind them, to be honest. They CAN be tastefully done, although they are rarely associated with anything tasteful.

 

I would never seek out a contrast collar, but wouldn't oppose it if one came along.

post #36652 of 37497

Contrast collars are something I've never witnessed tastefully done IRL, but there aren't many well-dressed men where I live, so this isn't saying much.

 

Notable examples I've seen of contrast collars being worn badly include guys in their 20s and 30s who think such a shirt looks cool sans tie with black jeans when they're heading out for a drink at a club, and a Chinese guy (probably 40-something) at a wedding I once attended who paired a contrast collar shirt with a loud club check sports coat. Stuff to make your really shudder.

 

When I've seen contrast collars worn properly, it is of course among the banker and finance types, and the usually favoured pairing is a bright red tie and audacious cuff links. This could pass as tasteful if it wasn't so commonly seen along with a black suit, up to a couple of sizes too large, and shoes leaving much to be desired. But then, even Australian guys with money rarely want to pay more than 100 bucks for a pair of dress shoes. When I do see a good suit, well-fitted and tastefully accessorised, it is still let down 90% of the time by crappy shoes. So there you have it, "How to rock the contrast collar, Oz style!"

 

I have to keep reminding myself to feel compassion for my fellow countrymen, because as Carey Grant once said, "Don’t be a snob about the way you dress. Snobbery is only a point in time. Be tolerant and helpful to the other fellow—he is yourself yesterday." Though I suppose the exception to this would be those privileged men who have grown up with having a role model, or perhaps a number of role models, to save them from sartorial ignorance.

 

Just my 2 cents. Rant now done.

post #36653 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Starting to see early signs of the return of the contrast collar, in Manhattan anyway....cloud.gif

Must i teach you how it's really done?
post #36654 of 37497

@upr_crust can show you all how contrast collars can be worn tastefully.

post #36655 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

@upr_crust can show you all how contrast collars can be worn tastefully.


Yes, while I'm very new here (my post count is testament to that!) I was thinking of @upr_crust as I posted my rant, as I felt sure I had seen sporting these collars in exemplary fashion, but then second guessed that I may have confused him with somebody else. I didn't want to suggest that I'd seen him wearing said collars if I wasn't actually correct! Glad to have that confirmation, @EliodA, thank you.

post #36656 of 37497

@Epicure  you're not wrong in your views. Contrast collars are rarely well done, but, with @upr_crust serving as proof, the deed can be done.

post #36657 of 37497

Need to replace an old black knit tie. I have been hemming and hawing for a month b/c I can't decide if I want a straight end or a pointed one this time.

 

Straight end: pro, classic; con, a little unusual

Pointed end: pro, avoids straight end weirdness; con, potentially compounds the weirdness of a knit tie by making it even weirder

 

I narrowed it down to ties of the exact same weave and by the same maker, they just happen to be offered in either combination.

 

Thoughts?

post #36658 of 37497
There's nothing weird about a standard knit tie.
post #36659 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

There's nothing weird about a standard knit tie.

 

Maybe, but you are an extreme lover of standard knit ties, so there is bias.

post #36660 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post
 

Need to replace an old black knit tie. I have been hemming and hawing for a month b/c I can't decide if I want a straight end or a pointed one this time.

 

Straight end: pro, classic; con, a little unusual

Pointed end: pro, avoids straight end weirdness; con, potentially compounds the weirdness of a knit tie by making it even weirder

 

I narrowed it down to ties of the exact same weave and by the same maker, they just happen to be offered in either combination.

 

Thoughts?

 

When speaking of "weirdness" I assume you're referring to the perception of the non-#menswear innocent bystanders around you?

 

I like pointed end knits because from a distance they don't offend anyone. I also just don't like straight ends as a personal preference; they make me feel as someone was weaving my tie and decided to stop before they finished.

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