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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2418

post #36256 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

What's going on with the buttoning point? It's curling out in a weird way. To be honest, I'm not seeing anything about that fit that suggests MTM rather than RTW with shortened sleeves.

Not sure, I think it needs a bit of a press as that lapel is not sitting properly.

post #36257 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowball View Post

Well, here is the finished product and my first foray into getting photo critique on SF so here we go...




The clothes have been worn all day and jacket is still hanging out some of the wrinkles from its travels. I have definitely changed my mind about the waist being too loose and now I am wondering about that right sleeve. It sits right on my wrist bone but I feel there's too much shirt hanging out.
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This is interesting. The jacket fits well in all the right places (shoulder, back) which indicates good MTM. The sleeves might be off by a little, but that's an easy fix. I think the main issue is the lack of structure (that's not a good or bad thing - it's about preference).

Is the jacket unstructured or unlined? Maybe a thicker canvass / structure would give it better shape.

Either way, I think it looks good.


Edit: Here's an old photo from @NOBD that shows a linen piece with a bit more of a structured look:

post #36258 of 37396
Does anyone have a line on some light gray spring/summer weight wool trousers under $150?
post #36259 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


This is interesting. The jacket fits well in all the right places (shoulder, back) which indicates good MTM. The sleeves might be off by a little, but that's an easy fix. I think the main issue is the lack of structure (that's not a good or bad thing - it's about preference).

Is the jacket unstructured or unlined? Maybe a thicker canvass / structure would give it better shape.

Either way, I think it looks good.


Edit: Here's an old photo from @NOBD that shows a linen piece with a bit more of a structured look:

 

It is lightly canvased with natural shoulders so really not a huge amount of structure. I was aiming for something that had a slightly relaxed, casual vibe about it.

 

Sleeve definitely needs some modification but I think you're right that the key areas fit well.

 

Now you have me wondering if the next version needs the extra structure or not.

post #36260 of 37396
It's so relaxed, I'd lose the front darts and just get a sack.
post #36261 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Edit: Here's an old photo from @NOBD that shows a linen piece with a bit more of a structured look:
Are you sure that's linen?

if thats this one - http://www.styleforum.net/t/335189/the-great-navy-blazer-conundrum/150_50

 

he says its cotton.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

It's so relaxed, I'd lose the front darts and just get a sack.

:confused: 


Edited by venividivicibj - 5/16/16 at 11:38am
post #36262 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowball View Post
 

 

It is lightly canvased with natural shoulders so really not a huge amount of structure. I was aiming for something that had a slightly relaxed, casual vibe about it.

 

Now you have me wondering if the next version needs the extra structure or not.

Why? You wanted light and comfortable, with a relaxed vibe, and that is what you got.

 

If you wanted that there is no reason to go structured/more canvassed, it would defeat the purpose.

post #36263 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowball View Post
 

 

It is lightly canvased with natural shoulders so really not a huge amount of structure. I was aiming for something that had a slightly relaxed, casual vibe about it.

 

Sleeve definitely needs some modification but I think you're right that the key areas fit well.

 

Now you have me wondering if the next version needs the extra structure or not.

 

I usually give my KW jackets a few days hanging up before I wear them.  I've had some that arrived clean and ready to go and others where the lapel was wonky and needed a few days to settle down.

post #36264 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedstate View Post

Does anyone have a line on some light gray spring/summer weight wool trousers under $150?

 

How casual or dressy do you want the cloth to be?  Luxire has a number which meet that price point.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #36265 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post
 

 

I usually give my KW jackets a few days hanging up before I wear them.  I've had some that arrived clean and ready to go and others where the lapel was wonky and needed a few days to settle down.

Yeah, I'm not going to make any changes until its had a couple of weeks on the hangar to settle in.

post #36266 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

How casual or dressy do you want the cloth to be?  Luxire has a number which meet that price point.

Cheers,

Ac

Hmm I'll have to check them out. Probably somewhere in the middle of the formality scale. Paired with spring/summer sport coats and ties. Rarely tieless.
post #36267 of 37396

I think once it hangs for a bit/gets a pressing, the quarter issue will resolve.  I like the fit otherwise.  Maybe add 1 cm to the sleeves (or only the right one if you always plan to wear a watch on your left)?


Edited by heldentenor - 5/16/16 at 3:52pm
post #36268 of 37396

@Bowball , my $0.02 re. the 'curling up' of the left quarter: it can be an indication that there's not enough room around the hips. That can be a lack of fabric, or just that you have to pull it a bit at the front to get it lying flat. 

On the other hand, there seems to be too much room around the waist. Not from the sides (waist suppression looks okay to me), but in the back: it should curve inwards a bit more, following the curve in your spine. As it is now, it makes you look heavier than you are.

post #36269 of 37396
Thread Starter 
@dazedstate

You also might look at Spier & Mackay
post #36270 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

@dazedstate

You also might look at Spier & Mackay

Thank you I'll check out their trousers.
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