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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2392

post #35866 of 37396

yeah after thinking about it and looking at the pictures a bunch more, I'd rather just return this suit and try to find a better fitting suit.  

 

also thanks 

@Caustic Man for the more detailed explanation on what is wrong with the suit

 

@justinkapur I went with an ebay suit cuz of my price range ($300 plus tailoring) and I want a wool suit with a 3" lapel, and a more traditional trouser width.  I havent found a store that has all of these requirements, so thats why I tried ebay.

post #35867 of 37396
^ suitsupply blue line Napoli. SuSu doesn't quite work for me, but I'm a very particular build. With free shipping and returns, they're definitely worth trying.

Edit: here ya go
http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/suits/napoli-blue-plain/P4124I.html?cgid=Suits&prefn1=lineID&prefv1=Blue%20Line

Ignore the size advisor and the measurements, both are total garbage. Just get your usual size or whatever two sizes you're usually stuck between, returns are free.
post #35868 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Idk, I think he has some room for movement
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Did you find that photo on the "creepy sartorial images" thread?

post #35869 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by pe3brain View Post
 

my price range ($300 plus tailoring)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

^ suitsupply 

 

I agree that SuSu is the place for reasonably priced quality, though I wouldn't necessarily suggest that particular fit, and here's why:

 

Although I have changed shape quite a bit over the last couple of years, I'm still overweight.  So, I think, are you.  Whatever, that's no reason one can't dress beautifully.  One thing I found buying suits in larger sizes, is that makers see "larger" as meaning different things: to a more traditional high street place, they assume often that a larger size is frequently a medium sized guy carrying some extra weight.  Which for you and me, is fine - it means the larger size is the right shape.

 

But for a more youth-focused brand, or one that takes itself a little seriously in the world of style, whether it's Tom Ford at the top end or Suit Supply at the accessible end, "larger" sometimes means Olympic sprinter.  The problem with that is that to get the larger chest and waist, you need shoulders like a heavyweight boxing champion.  And the waist on the trousers is usually still too small!  

 

When I first joined SF, I relied heavily on cheap local tailors: not bespoke standard as Savile Row would have it, but a cheaply-tailored suit that fits is better than a designer beauty that doesn't.  I'm now considerably lighter, and at this stage shopping around a little for fit is enough - there is sufficient leeway between one style and another. I seem to do OK with Canali and sometimes Zegna; Ralph Lauren always has a large shoulder to waist ration and never fits. YMMV, and I wouldn't be able to say from your pics - not that it's my business anyway - what is likely to be right for you.

 

However, if you do go the Suit Supply route (where are you, by the way?), my own experience: 

 

- the size adviser is likely to fit you too small as CT said

- but the measurements have worked out OK for me; there's a variance within every suit of course

- Napoli has a relatively large ratio of shoulder width to chest/waist size in larger sizes, so I didn't go there

- ditto the popular Lazio, and Washington even worse

- I have Havana, Hudson, Livorno and Soho; Madison and Harris I believe would also fit OK

- The Havana has the trimmest waist; the Hudson gets the most compliments (partly because it's a crazy cloth, but it does hang well), and the Livorno has a little shoulder padding and very flattering, businessy look.

- All the trousers are quite tapered, the Livorno least; I have big calves as I've always walked on my toes and so sometimes SuSu suits are a little closer than I'd like below the knee and catch when I wear long socks

 

I don't know your size, but an important note on sizing - please excuse me if I'm stating the obvious, but it's cited so often here even by knowledgeable people and retailers themselves, that it's worth saying:

 

The conversion from Euro sizes to US/UK sizes is not just "take away ten".  It's repeated so lazily because for a medium height slim fellow who takes a Euro 50,a UK 40 just happens to be the right conversion.  Firstly, it will vary by maker - the Euro maker is more likely to give a size closer to the actual size, in my experience, and the US maker the more likely to give a generous allowance i.e. assume that's your actual measurement and make plenty of allowance.  But that varies from maker to maker.  The second, important thing, is that the actual size conversion diverges rapidly as the size gets larger.  Euro 50 means 50cm across.  This means 100cm around.  Which converts reasonably closely to 40 inches for practical purposes.  But a 56 is 112cm, which is only 44 inches, not 46.  An EU 60 is 120cm, barely over 47 inches, nowhere near a US/UK 50.  So there you have it, in case you didn't already!

 

Anyway, perhaps the first step if you want some advice here is to find a jacket that's really comfortable, or that you think fits well across the shoulders and chest.  Take some advice, and if the jacket's good, measure the shoulder seam distanc, "pit to pit", and length from the bottom of the collar to the hem as a starting point.  Get your actual chest and waist measurements too, giving yourself perhaps 7-10cm or 3-4 inches allowance.  But for me, it's the shoulder measurement that's important: if it's really too small, the chest will pull, or in our case, if it's too big the shoulders will float around on their own and the sleeves look baggy and unkempt.  I find I have about 3-4cm leeway for a little extension where it looks good.  Any more and it starts to lose something.

 

But we're here to help.  I hope that ramble has been useful in some way, and excuse me if I've been disrespectful, that's not my intent at all.  I've always felt rather strongly that this forum needs to be about everyone dressing better, and not just a place to look at 21 year old crossfit enthusiasts pasting their Instagram feeds. :)

post #35870 of 37396

^Very good and useful post, particularly for larger people (such as myself), mimo!

post #35871 of 37396
Kind of you to say: I forgot to add that the La Spalla and Jort fits also seem likely to work for me, but in that price range I'm maybe looking at other options.
post #35872 of 37396
In the past some Napoli and Havana suits have been offered as separates, but currently only the Havana traveler is being offered as separates. I own that suit and like it, but it's casual and leans fashion-forward in length.

I suggest the Napoli because it's the most accommodating fit, one of the cheapest, and isn't as casual as some of the other lower-tier fits (Havana and Hudson have unpadded shoulders).

If you're a heavier guy on a budget, I don't think you'll do better than the Napoli cut. Unless you're looking for soft shoulders and a more casual suit, in which case I'd say the Havana could be versatile since it has hip patch pockets, but a welted breast pocket.
post #35873 of 37396

thanks mimo and captain I'll look into the Lazio and napoli.  The measurements of hickey suit I was wearing is 18.5" shoulder, 22" chest, 40.5" waist was the top button.  this is fairly similar to the Lazio 42" and the napoli 42" is similar in chest and waist, but is an extra inch in the shoulder. either way both of those would be too small so I'll try the 44" in each and we'll see how they fit.  mimo I'm located in US Minnesota.

post #35874 of 37396

I suspect the shoulders of the Lazio and the Napoli will be too wide, but returns are easy after all.

post #35875 of 37396
What wud cause a creasing to appear behind your neck (below the collar) on your jacket?
post #35876 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

The conversion from Euro sizes to US/UK sizes is not just "take away ten".  It's repeated so lazily because for a medium height slim fellow who takes a Euro 50,a UK 40 just happens to be the right conversion.  Firstly, it will vary by maker - the Euro maker is more likely to give a size closer to the actual size, in my experience, and the US maker the more likely to give a generous allowance i.e. assume that's your actual measurement and make plenty of allowance.  But that varies from maker to maker.  The second, important thing, is that the actual size conversion diverges rapidly as the size gets larger.  Euro 50 means 50cm across.  This means 100cm around.  Which converts reasonably closely to 40 inches for practical purposes.  But a 56 is 112cm, which is only 44 inches, not 46.  An EU 60 is 120cm, barely over 47 inches, nowhere near a US/UK 50.  So there you have it, in case you didn't already!

Thanks for this - had no idea.

post #35877 of 37396

Mimo yeah I am pretty sure both will be I have a Calvin klein suit that doesn't fit anywhere and has 19" shoulders  that are too big


Edited by pe3brain - 4/18/16 at 2:59pm
post #35878 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

[...]

 

The conversion from Euro sizes to US/UK sizes is not just "take away ten".  It's repeated so lazily because for a medium height slim fellow who takes a Euro 50,a UK 40 just happens to be the right conversion.  Firstly, it will vary by maker - the Euro maker is more likely to give a size closer to the actual size, in my experience, and the US maker the more likely to give a generous allowance i.e. assume that's your actual measurement and make plenty of allowance.  ...]

 

This is spot on, in my experience. 

 

European retailers are also more likely to carry size 34 jackets, a boon for slender chaps like me.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #35879 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

What wud cause a creasing to appear behind your neck (below the collar) on your jacket?

 

 

As far as I'm aware, it can be caused by various things, some of which are inter-related:

 

- Jacket being too tight across the back of the shoulders;

- Too tight across the top of the shoulders;

- An erect stature;

- Square shoulders (similar to erect stature); or 

- A short back balance.

 

Generally, tailors will try to rectify the horizontal wrinkle below the collar by taking up the excess cloth in the wrinkle and putting it under the collar.

post #35880 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by pe3brain View Post

thanks mimo and captain I'll look into the Lazio and napoli.  The measurements of hickey suit I was wearing is 18.5" shoulder, 22" chest, 40.5" waist was the top button.  this is fairly similar to the Lazio 42" and the napoli 42" is similar in chest and waist, but is an extra inch in the shoulder. either way both of those would be too small so I'll try the 44" in each and we'll see how they fit.  mimo I'm located in US Minnesota.

Pe3brain I wear a 18.5 shoulder and 22.5 chest and just bought (yesterday actually) a SuSu Hudson in 42. You look like a much bigger dude than me so I'd take the advice of an earlier poster and get an additional size up since you can return for free.
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