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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2376

post #35626 of 37428

@Coxsackie Based on the measurements of that Tom Ford you're selling, it seems like we're pretty close in size. Anything else you may be putting up in the near future?

post #35627 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post
 

@Coxsackie Based on the measurements of that Tom Ford you're selling, it seems like we're pretty close in size. Anything else you may be putting up in the near future?


There's a Caruso 3pc POW. Also a cheapo 3pc from a local Australian firm (Rhodes & Beckett) which is good value, but too tight around my chest. Just look in my sig.

post #35628 of 37428

Cotton suit owners. I'm getting a solaro suit made (6-7 oz - cross post from unfunded thread).

 

Is it typical to have chest piece and canvassing in your suit? I've never had a cotton suit, and i'm not sure if 6-7oz is enough to hold its shape properly.

post #35629 of 37428

I have a cotton jacket from Cucinelli. Despite being a fairly heavy cotton, it has canvas.

 

Even my Eidos/Kimber field jacket - soft Japanese cotton - has some canvas. And that garment looks completely unstructured when worn.

 

I have a feeling cotton jackets without some kind of structural element, at least for the chest/shoulder panel, might drape poorly.

post #35630 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

I have a cotton jacket from Cucinelli. Despite being a fairly heavy cotton, it has canvas.

 

Even my Eidos/Kimber field jacket - soft Japanese cotton - has some canvas. And that garment looks completely unstructured when worn.

 

I have a feeling cotton jackets without some kind of structural element, at least for the chest/shoulder panel, might drape poorly.

awesome, thanks guys


Edited by jdrizzy - 4/1/16 at 7:30pm
post #35631 of 37428

Half canvassing doesn't mean that there is 1/2 as much canvassing and the other half is unlined. It means its half canvassed and half fused. Just get full canvassed and 1/4  or half lined.

post #35632 of 37428

Also, there's canvas and there's canvas.  It doesn't necessarily have to be a bulletproof horsehair breastplate.  But I'd agree with the others' advice: having even a light interlining will keep it looking like a jacket and not a laundry bag, and fully canvassed rather than fused will let it move naturally, which is doubly important in a light cloth.

post #35633 of 37428

Just checked that cotton jacket from Cucinelli. The canvas extends right to the bottom hem, but below the chest, it's fairly narrow, only about 10cm wide.

 

There's some padding in the shoulders too.

post #35634 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 

Half canvassing doesn't mean that there is 1/2 as much canvassing and the other half is unlined. It means its half canvassed and half fused. Just get full canvassed and 1/4  or half lined.


Usually, yes. But as I mentioned recently I have an HSM jacket that is half canvased and 1/4 lined with no fusing at all. In other words, the canvas extends only to where the jacket is lined. The rest is unlined and unfused.

post #35635 of 37428
Friday Challenge (Cardican or Cardican't) poll is up: http://www.styleforum.net/t/520533/friday-challenge-20160401-are-you-a-cardican-or-a-cardicant/
post #35636 of 37428

Question for yall:

 

Do you guys keep your blazers the same length as your suit jackets?


Edited by jdrizzy - 4/2/16 at 8:12pm
post #35637 of 37428
I don't rely solely on the size tag but I look at the measurements, especially starting with the shoulders.
post #35638 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

I don't rely solely on the size tag but I look at the measurements, especially starting with the shoulders.

sorry just edited my question

post #35639 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

Question for yall:

Do you guys keep your blazers the same length as your suit jackets?

SCs for me are ideally a bit shorter because I'm short. If you're not short, I'm not sure that's necessary.
post #35640 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post
 

Question for yall:

 

Do you guys keep your blazers the same length as your suit jackets?


Try to. There is a small range of length that I feel is more or less ideal for me and I make no distinction when considering SCs and suits. The only difference would be for DB jackets which I allow to be a bit shorter within that ideal range, though no longer.

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