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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2371

post #35551 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by llamaone View Post

Fair enough. My thinking--and this is mainly in regard specifically to KW suits--was that a completely unstructured shoulder would call for a similarly relaxed, soft construction throughout the chest and quarters. Hence my suggestion that the soft canvas (note: still full canvas, just a thinner piece of canvas) or unstructured might be the better option to go along with unpadded shoulders. Is this not at least somewhat logical in theory? shog[1].gif

But having never owned a truly unpadded (natural shoulders) jacket, I did acknowledge that it might be totally fine in practicality. I'm probably just overthinking it.

One of my favorite casual jackets is an Eidos soft shoulder, full canvassed, cobalt blue hemp-wool. Unbelievable weave. I think fabric is by Tallia Di Delfino.

My lone Formosa has a natural shoulder (so, not unpadded) and definitely looks more formal. I think that's actually their house style and I'm not sure they do a totally unpadded shoulder.

Anyway...
post #35552 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

Have you considered Solaro?  


Clicked through - I guess their Solaros are SW2578, SW2580 and SW2580X (plus maybe a few others with no photo available). No mention as to weight.

 

How do these differ from the Caccioppoli Solaros, if at all?

 

I think this has been answered.   FWIW I can def see u in Solaro.  

I've come to accept that I don't need another suit in that color, even tho it's prob my fav. I've been told it makes me look sallow.

post #35553 of 37396

Pliny, would you say that the Smiths woollen solaros wear warmer than the Caccioppoli cotton solaros?

 

I don't have any cotton suits, but do own a cotton jacket and my impression is that it's light, but doesn't breathe well.

 

Very taken by this Fabio Attanasio suit though (in Caccioppoli cotton solaro). It has the casual drape of linen but without those pesky creases -

 

post #35554 of 37396
Wow, im definitely looking for something like that. My tailor isnt able to source it, what would be the most logistical way to obtain solaro, buy it direct from another company/tailor/ one of you guys?
post #35555 of 37396

Both places sell direct (I don't know about to Canada though)

post #35556 of 37396
You can buy direct from Cacciopoli, Cacciopoli, no issues.
post #35557 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

Pliny, would you say that the Smiths woollen solaros wear warmer than the Caccioppoli cotton solaros?

 

I don't have any cotton suits, but do own a cotton jacket and my impression is that it's light, but doesn't breathe well.

 

Very taken by this Fabio Attanasio suit though (in Caccioppoli cotton solaro). It has the casual drape of linen but without those pesky creases -

 

 

 

I don't have either. Logically tho the answer is yes-  a lot warmer. It's heavier + wool.

post #35558 of 37396
How versatile is a loden green suede chuuka? What colors does it and does it not go with?

Right now I have a navy suede, chocolate suede chukka and light brown suede beat-up chukkas. Trying to decide if I should spring for loden green suede as BS has my size avail.
post #35559 of 37396

I like it better as a loafer I think, but the same casual vibe should carry well as a chukka: unlike a dark brown suede, I don't think it works with a blazer or grey flannels.  But I think it would be perfect as an alternative to sneakers with denim jeans, beige chinos, or either of those in white.  Add a simple button down oxford shirt or a polo, a light wool sweater if it's chilly or a bomber jacket.  Basically, perfect casual all-day spring wear.  

post #35560 of 37396
Thanks Mimo. So various shades of brown in pants as well as denim would be a good match.

Re: a burgundy cordovan - still keeping an eye out for these. Does a cordovan plain toe shoes hold up better than regular calf when it comes to creasing?
post #35561 of 37396
They don't crease, they just get rolls
post #35562 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuP View Post

Thanks Mimo. So various shades of brown in pants as well as denim would be a good match.

Re: a burgundy cordovan - still keeping an eye out for these. Does a cordovan plain toe shoes hold up better than regular calf when it comes to creasing?

 

I'd say anything light in colour, or denim, and very casual.

 

I always used to think that cordovan loafers were a bit silly: why have something heavy and tough for slippers?  But, since I got more cordovan shoes and boots, I started to get it: the special tone and warm shine, the absence of small creases as V-Cube just said, and the traditional burgundies and browns that you'd want most in a loafer.  By their nature, loafers wrinkle more and less regularly than oxfords or boots, and tend to lose their shape over time just because of their relative lack of structure.  I got one pair of AE tassels, and they hold their shape and smoothness so much better than any other loafers I've had.  There will be more, and I'd recommend them highly.

 

The only down side with shell is that you do have to look after it a bit more - although it's tough, the surface finish scratches and roughens easily.  But although some would have you rubbing it with unicorn bones and dodo fat for two hours after midnight under every full moon, it's not that big a deal: use a tiny bit of conditioner if it starts to feel rough, your normal shoe cream in tiny amounts and rarely, and just give them a quick and vigorous brush with a normal horse hair brush after wearing.  They'll look great.

post #35563 of 37396
Careful. The Alden thread and their uncles and nephews will be after you. Deer bones are serious business.
post #35564 of 37396

Hahaha..steady now, V-Cube.  And in function they are indistinguishable from the back of a serving spoon.  Silver heirlooms can be used for additional baller points.

post #35565 of 37396
I have some Loden tankers; so far I've only worn them with denim.





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