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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 2367

post #35491 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

I like this topic.I'm looking to get a tan suit, but dont have access to cotton/linen blends. I do have access to the minnis fresco 2 book, and they have a tan/ yellow in there (104350).

Do you guys think a fresco tan suit is just as appropriate of a summer suit as it would be if i bought a tan cotton linen blend suit?

Has anyone seen the 104350 frsco fabric made into a suit?

 

Have you considered Solaro?  

post #35492 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by llamaone View Post

Fair enough. My thinking--and this is mainly in regard specifically to KW suits--was that a completely unstructured shoulder would call for a similarly relaxed, soft construction throughout the chest and quarters. Hence my suggestion that the soft canvas (note: still full canvas, just a thinner piece of canvas) or unstructured might be the better option to go along with unpadded shoulders. Is this not at least somewhat logical in theory? shog[1].gif

But having never owned a truly unpadded (natural shoulders) jacket, I did acknowledge that it might be totally fine in practicality. I'm probably just overthinking it.

Unpadded doesn't necessarily mean unconstructed though. You can have an unpadded roped shoulder for example. Padding is different from shoulder expression.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/245858/shoulder-expression/0_50
post #35493 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Unpadded doesn't necessarily mean unconstructed though. You can have an unpadded roped shoulder for example. Padding is different from shoulder expression.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/245858/shoulder-expression/0_50

True, I should have been more precise with my terminology. I've read that thread on shoulder expression, and it is a good one indeed. Very informative. Thanks for linking it--I'll browse through it again.
post #35494 of 37396
RIP Phife Dawg frown.giffrown.gif

post #35495 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post


Half canvas vs full canvass will have zero effect in the wearability of the jacket in heat. I have three summer fabric (Fresco, specifically) suits from KW and the standard full canvass option worked fine...and I was in the Middle East when I bought them. The suggestion that going to half canvass (in which the bottom half if the jacket would instead be fused) would be more wearable in heat is incorrect.


That's kind of a matter of opinion, though. I lived in the Middle East for 4 years and I think it made a difference when it came to loose weaves. Not so much with other fabrics. Where in the ME were you?

 

ETA: You know, after some looking it seems as if most half canvas jackets are made half canvassed and half fused. I can see why this wouldn't be any cooler than a full canvas. I had a couple jackets that were half canvassed and half lined, with no fusing which I thought was significantly cooler. Maybe this is where I'm mistaking one for the other. Ah well, pointless in that KW doesn't offer it I suppose.


Edited by Caustic Man - 3/23/16 at 5:51am
post #35496 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

My work environment is very casual. I'm the only person who wears a jacket to work, so I'm rarely in a situation where an unstructured suit would be considered too casual. I considered the soft canvas but multiple posters, including Kent Wang, have said that they're not fond of that option.

My biggest problem is that I have no frame of reference for either style. Every jacket I currently have is either fused (and going to be donated/given to friends) or half canvas.

What was the rationale for this?

 

Also @Caustic Man is unstructured generally for more "built" individuals, for lack of a better word?

post #35497 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post
 

Also @Caustic Man is unstructured generally for more "built" individuals, for lack of a better word?

 

I don't know what you mean by "built". Personally I don't think you need to be a body builder or to have perfect proportions, but having a major dropped shoulder or concave chest or very bad posture makes many unstructured jackets look sub-optimal, if you will. Just as an example, others have pointed out that KW himself could stand to use more structure in his jackets because of the particulars of his body. Not that he doesn't look good, it's just that more structure might hide more of the flaws of his particular build. I speak in generalities here because there are always exceptions.

post #35498 of 37396
Unstructured will look good on you if a well fitting cardigan looks good on you.
post #35499 of 37396

If Vox's pic in the OP is indeed wheat, does have anyone have pics of the "mixture sand" fabric?

post #35500 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Also, I think bespoke vs mtm vs RTW makes a big difference (maybe more than usual). Structuring can mask the difference between a jacket pattern and a wearer's body. With bespoke, the pattern is created for that specific body, so structure won't really serve that particular function. It probably does in RTW and to a lesser extent MTM (which also uses an existing pattern which is to varying degrees modified)
post #35501 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I think bespoke vs mtm vs RTW makes a big difference (maybe more than usual).

 

I think that's reasonable to say.

post #35502 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

Have you considered Solaro?  

Solaro is awesome, but I can't order cut lengths from them can I?

post #35503 of 37396
You can. Your tailor should be able to as well
post #35504 of 37396

A little help requested from you knowledgeable folk. I have relatively narrow shoulders (17-17.5" 38R). I've always tried to stick with jackets that had correspondingly narrow shoulder widths. When I've strayed to the more standard 18" width it's looked pretty silly (wide and sleeves don't fall cleanly. Here's an example with a standard 38R Canali :

 

 

Pretty obvious that the shoulders are too wide for my build. So imagine my surprise when I measured the shoulder width on this Kiton coat that at least to my eyes looks pretty great. It measures to 19":

 

 

The Canali had more padding. The Kiton has less but is not completely unpadded. Different construction techniques? It doesn't make sense to me. 

post #35505 of 37396
Shoulder construction and cut of the jacket matter. Kind of like how a drape cut has a fuller chest (and sometimes shoulder extension) and can look good in a way that sizing up and getting a coat that is objectively too big would not. Measurements are important, but not the whole story. Jackets can be sized to fit the same person but have different measurements.
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